EGR woes
#1
08-21-2009, 09:45 PM
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EGR woes
well i just picked up a 1988 f250 last night. Its got a 351 and a c6 in it and i am dumbfounded by the emissions systems on it. i have many questions and greatly appreciate any and all feed back. lemme break it down:
1. over the passenger side wheel well in the engine bay, what is supposed to be in between the battery and the A/C?
2. is the AIR pump and the smog pump the same thing?
3. the egr system is currently not hooked up and i am wondering if anyone has a picture of what the system looks like as a whole. can i just remove it? i snooped around and i dont understand what a lot of the different peices are or if it will run properly.
4. i went to check the oil and the tube that holds the dipstick came out and its pretty difficult to locate the hole. does anyone have any idea how i can rig this up?
and just for general information; i traded a guy my old rusty honda with a bad tranny for it. it is very mechanically sound but it looks terrible. the front clip and doors are blue, the cab is grey and the bed is primered white, and i have a olive drab tailgate for it. ill see if i can figure out how to post pictures tomorrow. thanks again in advance for feedback.
1. over the passenger side wheel well in the engine bay, what is supposed to be in between the battery and the A/C?
2. is the AIR pump and the smog pump the same thing?
3. the egr system is currently not hooked up and i am wondering if anyone has a picture of what the system looks like as a whole. can i just remove it? i snooped around and i dont understand what a lot of the different peices are or if it will run properly.
4. i went to check the oil and the tube that holds the dipstick came out and its pretty difficult to locate the hole. does anyone have any idea how i can rig this up?
and just for general information; i traded a guy my old rusty honda with a bad tranny for it. it is very mechanically sound but it looks terrible. the front clip and doors are blue, the cab is grey and the bed is primered white, and i have a olive drab tailgate for it. ill see if i can figure out how to post pictures tomorrow. thanks again in advance for feedback.
#2
08-23-2009, 04:37 AM
I see no one has posted answers to your questions, so I'll take a stab at it:
1. Unfortunately I have no clue as I drive a diesel and it's been a while since I worked on a gasser truck of your vintage, but I'll be going to the U-Pull-It tomorrow so I'll try to remember and check on that for ya, plenty of trucks there.
2. Yes, smog pump and AIR pump is the same thing.
3. The entire factory smog system on these trucks is a total cluster****, it's so over-complicated it ain't even funny! But the EGR part of it is a pretty straight-forward thing - you have your EGR valve, there is a vacuum line on it, the other end of that vacuum line is hooked up to the EVR solenoid, which in its turn is hooked up to the manifold vacuum tree through another vacuum line. What that does is the engine is constantly pulling vacuum on the EVR, but as long as the EVR solenoid is closed none of that vacuum reaches the EGR valve and it stays closed - basically the EVR solenoid acts like a shutoff valve for the EGR vacuum system. When the ECM decides to open the EGR valve it powers up the EVR solenoid, that opens up and allows vacuum to the EGR valve - vacuum pulls on a diaphragm inside the valve assembly, and the valve itself opes. It kinda sounds complicated, but it's really pretty simple and can very easily be brought to operation. Can you do away with the EGR - sure, but your ECM will detect its absence and will pull back on the ignition timing while at the same time increasing the fuel delivered to the cylinders, resulting in lower power and higher fuel consumption. So yeah, I'd try to fix that thing rather than disable it...
4. the dipstick tube should actually be bolted to the engine somewhere towards its top end, look for a bracket or a tab welded to it. You'll have to shine some light down there to locate the hole in the engine block where it's supposed to go in, then when you find it try to press the tube back in and this time bolt it up to whatever in the upper end so it don't come out again.
1. Unfortunately I have no clue as I drive a diesel and it's been a while since I worked on a gasser truck of your vintage, but I'll be going to the U-Pull-It tomorrow so I'll try to remember and check on that for ya, plenty of trucks there.
2. Yes, smog pump and AIR pump is the same thing.
3. The entire factory smog system on these trucks is a total cluster****, it's so over-complicated it ain't even funny! But the EGR part of it is a pretty straight-forward thing - you have your EGR valve, there is a vacuum line on it, the other end of that vacuum line is hooked up to the EVR solenoid, which in its turn is hooked up to the manifold vacuum tree through another vacuum line. What that does is the engine is constantly pulling vacuum on the EVR, but as long as the EVR solenoid is closed none of that vacuum reaches the EGR valve and it stays closed - basically the EVR solenoid acts like a shutoff valve for the EGR vacuum system. When the ECM decides to open the EGR valve it powers up the EVR solenoid, that opens up and allows vacuum to the EGR valve - vacuum pulls on a diaphragm inside the valve assembly, and the valve itself opes. It kinda sounds complicated, but it's really pretty simple and can very easily be brought to operation. Can you do away with the EGR - sure, but your ECM will detect its absence and will pull back on the ignition timing while at the same time increasing the fuel delivered to the cylinders, resulting in lower power and higher fuel consumption. So yeah, I'd try to fix that thing rather than disable it...
4. the dipstick tube should actually be bolted to the engine somewhere towards its top end, look for a bracket or a tab welded to it. You'll have to shine some light down there to locate the hole in the engine block where it's supposed to go in, then when you find it try to press the tube back in and this time bolt it up to whatever in the upper end so it don't come out again.
#3
08-24-2009, 06:09 PM
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The Dipstick tube can either go into the block just above the oil pan, or be like mine and go directly into the driver's side of the oil pan. The tab on the tube attached to an exhaust manifold bolt, if you have headers then you will need to rig up something to retain the dipstick tube.
Do you mean between the A/C accumulator and the battery? That would be the intake and muffler for the AIR system.
Do you mean between the A/C accumulator and the battery? That would be the intake and muffler for the AIR system.
#4
08-26-2009, 05:07 PM
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well i got the oil dipstick in but the tube is the wrong length so i cant really check my oil level anyway... i guess ill have to order one from ford. the truck is now up and running but i have a couple minor problems:
1. the truck goes in and out of 4hi when it feels like. i think i got it to work but shes finnicky.
2. the ******* that owned it before chopped off the exhaust, put headers on and then put on one catalytic converter on each header. the cat on the passenger side glows bright red, smokes a little, and spits out molten metal. the oxygen sensor currently is not hooked up so its running obnoxiously rich, but im still wondering if i have a miss on that side.
i think thats it for now... but we shall see
1. the truck goes in and out of 4hi when it feels like. i think i got it to work but shes finnicky.
2. the ******* that owned it before chopped off the exhaust, put headers on and then put on one catalytic converter on each header. the cat on the passenger side glows bright red, smokes a little, and spits out molten metal. the oxygen sensor currently is not hooked up so its running obnoxiously rich, but im still wondering if i have a miss on that side.
i think thats it for now... but we shall see
