should keep up!

a blast cabinet is best if you can brake the tire and wheel down, lets you contain the media and reuse it.... a portable works well too, just makes one hell of a mess, unless you maybe take a tarp and make a enclosure.

as far as using a media blaster its rather strait forward, if using a portable wear PPE I.E. face mask and some form of respirator. a cabinet is more or less sealed and no PPE needed.

 

Had a jiggle at speed in the '61.
Got underneath and found the driveshaft bearing was trash.
Ordered a new one and yanked the old one out. Boy that thing was stuck to beat the band. Had to cut it apart to get it off.
But now she's purring along.
While I was down there I found a problem with my clutch. The z bar mount on the engine was moving around. Went to tighten the bolts and they were tight.
So when I put it together I must not have noticed the bolts were a hair to long.
Dumb butt.
Oh well found some shorter bolts in my stash and poof all is beautiful. Clutch and drive train feel like new.

 

Nicely done Marc. Glad you didn't have to torch that bearing off.

 

It's great you had the right bolts. You get extra credit for actually finding them. 😎

 

I learned at an early age that there IS such a thing as a "bucket of bolts", and it's a good thing to have one.

Pop

 

Indeed it is Pop.
I try to stay stocked on fasteners but really can't believe how many times I rely on my bucket of bolts to get by.

 

So i had time this morning to paint the bumper with the help of my buddy Jim.

 

Looks great Raul

 

That does indeed look great Raul.

I just finished painting the wheel for my spare and it does not look nearly as good.

In fact, I was going to comment that I might have been better off trying to find a new wheel than to have gone through the time and expense of prepping and painting my old wheel.

I understand the value of a job well done but the cost of taking the old wheel off ($5), the can of primer ($9.99), the three 12 oz cans of white wheel paint ($22.50), consumables (including the beer I had to drink), and the pair of jeans I ruined have made me reconsider my plan to paint the other six wheels.

 

On another note, I'm showing 13.7V after installation of the locally rebuilt "140 Amp" alternator I talked about a few weeks ago. Should I be seeing 14V?

 

If you're measuring it at the battery terminals, I like to see 14-14.4V. If you're looking at a gauge in the cab, or even a scangauge, 13.7 might be fine. I also think that there are a lot of alternators that don't reach 14V, and things seems to work fine.

 

I have a gauge plugged in at the cigarette lighter outlet and that's what I see.

 

It kinda' depends on the state of charge of the batteries.

Already-fully-charged batteries, no lights on, no heater motor, no air conditioning on, I'd say that 13.7 is about right.

Immediately after start, when the glow plug relay is engaged, it'll be even lower for a couple of minutes, then jump up to about 14.4 until the batteries are topped-off.

At least, I believe, that's how it's SUPPOSED to work on ours!

I think that Bill has a ECM-controlled alternator on his, and I believe his programming is more sophisticated.

Pop

 

Woohoo
Just picked up the '61 and drove it to work with a new set of gears.
It had 4.56s in it when I got it and it's been an around town street truck till now.
However since I put ac in it and have been fixing it up more and more, I'm driving it more. So it needed a new set of gears to be reasonable on the freeway.
Took it over to a guy I should have been familiar with since we're both valley boys but I had never met. His name is Ron Zajicek and lives over by the SF mission.
He used to work at Speedway that does all the NASCAR rear end stuff.
Great guy. Could yak with him for hours.
Anyway, he put a set of 3.50s in and it was really nice on the way into work exept that now I can go fast enough to pick up a high speed vibration.
So, on to the next fix

 

ever poked around craigslist or ebay to find a set of alloy wheels?