ummm...crap...
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ummm...crap...
Hey guys gut a question for ya. just finished a complete rebuild on my '59 292. i had the heads completely gone through and milled. i didnt have to machine the block because it was fresh but i did change all the bearings and rings and honed it. after i bolted her all together and primed the oil sys, it sat for a couple weeks and i noticed a lil drip of oil starting to puddle on the block but never enough to drip. it is coming out between the head and the block. i retorqued the head and cleaned the oil, it reappeared about a wk later. i used copper head gaskets and copper spray, my question is, does the it need to get hot for the copper spray to seal? what are your thoughts?
Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2003
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What kind of gaskets are you using? A composition gasket should not require the copper coat; it should seal well on it's own.
You have a problem, if it is leaking with 0 pressure on the system. Are you sure it is coming from between the head and block? Given the location of the oil passage, it just does not seem very likely. It will have to travel uphill or find a relatively difficult path from the top of the deck, between the cylinders, to the bottom of the deck.
Another thought that comes to mind is that after priming the system, it shouldn't take weeks for the oil to drain back into the pan.
Oh, never mind, I just read copper head gaskets. Both the head and block surfaces need to be very flat for metal gaskets. This might be your problem. Did you check the block surface?
I think the easiest solution will be to use composition gaskets but, if you already have your clearances set up for use with the copper gaskets, then it may not be an option. How thick is the copper gasket?
You have a problem, if it is leaking with 0 pressure on the system. Are you sure it is coming from between the head and block? Given the location of the oil passage, it just does not seem very likely. It will have to travel uphill or find a relatively difficult path from the top of the deck, between the cylinders, to the bottom of the deck.
Another thought that comes to mind is that after priming the system, it shouldn't take weeks for the oil to drain back into the pan.
Oh, never mind, I just read copper head gaskets. Both the head and block surfaces need to be very flat for metal gaskets. This might be your problem. Did you check the block surface?
I think the easiest solution will be to use composition gaskets but, if you already have your clearances set up for use with the copper gaskets, then it may not be an option. How thick is the copper gasket?
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yeah, its coming out between the head and the block,theres no oil above or below the the gasket. it only took a day or two for it to appear. the heads were just milled so i know its flat. i checked the block surface with a straight edge and a feeler gauge< it was within the tolerances in my book. as far as the thickness id have to ask to mummert. i guess i could use comp gskts, it would just lower my compression a bit....
Logistics Pro
Joined: Feb 2005
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From: Upper Left Coast
Howdy,
I did the same thing but used a hand crank (speed wrench) to "prime" my oil system. No leaks.
Just to verify that it's indeed an oil leak in the pressured area, you might remove your distributor and use a 1/4 drive deep socket and extension. Turn it (CCW) with an electric drill. Put a gage on your engine and run it.
I got 50+ psi on mine turning it with a battery powered drill. Run it for a couple of min. You'll know for sure if it's a head gasket leak there.
If it is you'll probably need to replace the gasket on that side.
Your engine sure looks great with those chrome valve covers!
Did you use a drilled cam or a grooved one?
Regards,
Rick
I did the same thing but used a hand crank (speed wrench) to "prime" my oil system. No leaks.
Just to verify that it's indeed an oil leak in the pressured area, you might remove your distributor and use a 1/4 drive deep socket and extension. Turn it (CCW) with an electric drill. Put a gage on your engine and run it.
I got 50+ psi on mine turning it with a battery powered drill. Run it for a couple of min. You'll know for sure if it's a head gasket leak there.
If it is you'll probably need to replace the gasket on that side.
Your engine sure looks great with those chrome valve covers!
Did you use a drilled cam or a grooved one?
Regards,
Rick
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yeah, thats how i primed the sys to start with when i finished the rebuild, and the other day before i dropped it back in my truck. The leak hasnt gotten any better or worse, but it has started leaking to the back of the motor since its now at an incline.
The cam is a grooved one from Clay Smith. .462 on the lift, should idle nasty, especially open header!!!
The cam is a grooved one from Clay Smith. .462 on the lift, should idle nasty, especially open header!!!
Elder User
Joined: Dec 2006
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From: Redondo Beach, CA
Others may disagree, but since you have the engine in the truck, I say Light her off and break in the cam. Bring it up to temp and let it cool down. Then retorque the heads and see where your at. It may seal, maybe not. Worth a try as long as your this far and at least the cam will be broken in.
Best of luck,
Best of luck,
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well thats exactly what i did. i rejetted the stock carb and slapped her on and gave her hell! i got the cam broke in, got her loose enough to idle on her own...boy does she sound wicked...open header of course! 170 degrees 75 lbs of oil pressure ran like a champ. shut her down and checked the oil...MILK! I got comp gaskets on the way i got her half apart. ill let u guys know what happens saturday. when she goes back together I really appreciate all ur help. P.S. youtube video comin soon, u gotta hear it ......THANK YOU CLAY SMITH!
Elder User
Joined: Dec 2006
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From: Redondo Beach, CA
Well that sux... I just have to ask, do you have the head bolts in the correct locations??
It still does not make sense to me how you had and oil leak between the block and head... And now water in the oil??
Did you check the heads after machining? Either that our the block is wavy.
I'm running steel gaskets in my 312" with no problems.
Glad you like the Clay Smith Cam, same one that I have. Awesome.
It still does not make sense to me how you had and oil leak between the block and head... And now water in the oil??
Did you check the heads after machining? Either that our the block is wavy.
I'm running steel gaskets in my 312" with no problems.
Glad you like the Clay Smith Cam, same one that I have. Awesome.
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well switching the gaskets fixed it. as for the oil leak side, i dont know why it leaked oil its got me baffled too but it was the other side that turned out to be the problem. im just happy its fixed! thanks again for all your help. now, on to the next part, gonna post a new thread!
