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About to change my HPOP Seal any steps for me?

  #16  
Old 08-20-2009, 08:49 PM
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I would find the leak before I tore into it. Are you sure its not from the turbo or pedestal or maybe evbp rod?
 
  #17  
Old 08-20-2009, 09:35 PM
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yea find Nick(weekendwarrior) and if he stands anywhere near your truck he can't help himself.....he will be working on it in no time.... lol

ed
 
  #18  
Old 08-20-2009, 10:24 PM
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I would also replace the fuel line o-rings. I did this same repair about 2 month's ago. I had to replace the non-servicable plug o-ring. Job's not that bad.
 
  #19  
Old 08-21-2009, 12:32 PM
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Originally Posted by machmedic
I would also replace the fuel line o-rings. I did this same repair about 2 month's ago. I had to replace the non-servicable plug o-ring. Job's not that bad.
Thanks for the info. I'll get a set of those too.

I was looking through my shop manual and it tells me that I need to remove the fuel/water separator bowl (obvious) but it also tells me to remove the intake spider? Is this really necessary? I have the www.dieselsite.com boots on there and they were a PITA to get on. I would prefer not to disturb them (and go through the ordeal of re-installing them either) if at all possible. Do you really need to remove the spider?

Thanks for all the replies and advice so far (and to Yougotthehit for starting this thread)...
 
  #20  
Old 08-21-2009, 12:48 PM
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It is not absolutely necessary but the PITA trade off is about the same. I also have the same spider boots and have found that by inserting a small, thin 6" metal mechanics ruler between the spider and boot, they will separate rather easily.

By removing the spider, there is a WHOLE LOT more room to work on both the bowl and pump and will make the job much quicker. If you will be removing the entire passenger side fuel line to replace the sleeve on the rear side, it is imperative to remove the spider to be able to access the rear fitting. This is also a good time to inspect the passenger side fuel line where it runs through the "P" clamp by the pedestal for signs of rubbing a hole in it. I replaced my fuel line and modified the clamp due to this problem.
 
  #21  
Old 08-21-2009, 06:17 PM
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Good to know. I will probably remove the spider so I can get in there and eyeball everything to see how it's doing (I've got 184K). As a good measure are there any other seals/o-rings I can replace before they leak while I'm on top of the engine? Which of your fuel o-ring/seal kits would you recommend to go ahead and do as a pre-emptive measure?
 
  #22  
Old 08-22-2009, 08:52 AM
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make sure you replace the fuel bowl drain valve o-rings while its out. also be careful not to jack up the seals on the hard fuel lines going into the bowl.........
 
  #23  
Old 08-24-2009, 08:05 AM
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Ok sorry it took so long to update. Well it one of my HPOP lines was loose and the seal was shot. So about 300 worth of oil later in a matter of 2 months(I do transport, constantly on the road, gallon a day) Its finally fixed!

I found which must be the easiest way to get the lines off. Its the tool that has a handle like a screwdriver that you use to pop off clips on your door panel. Its weird now for not seeing a leak.
 
  #24  
Old 08-24-2009, 08:06 AM
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Congrats on your repair!!!
 
  #25  
Old 08-24-2009, 09:09 AM
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Originally Posted by Yougotthehit
Ok sorry it took so long to update. Well it one of my HPOP lines was loose and the seal was shot. So about 300 worth of oil later in a matter of 2 months(I do transport, constantly on the road, gallon a day) Its finally fixed!

I found which must be the easiest way to get the lines off. Its the tool that has a handle like a screwdriver that you use to pop off clips on your door panel. Its weird now for not seeing a leak.
Glad you got it fixed!
 
  #26  
Old 08-27-2009, 01:25 PM
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Yes I know I am reviving an old thread, but I was getting ready to start one and ask the exact same questions. By the way glad you got it fixed Yougotthehit. I was really skeptical about tearing into this until i read this thread. I have had a leak for weeks, and I finally identified it as the HPOP, i have already changed out all my turbo pedastle rings. I just ahve one question. I ordered one of the 7 ring kits and the rear plate o-ring from guzzle a couple days ago, does it have the seal that goes between the pump and the reservior? Thanks
 
  #27  
Old 09-19-2009, 10:40 AM
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So do I assume I should reseal my HPOP if the valley has several oil puddles?.....or is there other things that can create those puddles?
 
  #28  
Old 09-19-2009, 11:48 AM
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Are the puddles really oil, or could they be fuel?

Different fixes.

Pop
 
  #29  
Old 09-19-2009, 12:05 PM
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Originally Posted by SpringerPop
Are the puddles really oil, or could they be fuel?

Different fixes.

Pop
Yeah, I just checked and it is for sure oil. I checked all the line connections and everything is dry as a bone. However, the bottom of the HPOP is wet with oil. So I stretched my hand underneath(not the first time I was thankfull for long fingers ) and did get some oil film around the "non-servicable plug", so I guess I'm getting the upgraded plug and the seal kit huh?
 
  #30  
Old 02-16-2014, 09:16 PM
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Mayday..messed up and im on a time crunch

so was changing Hpop oil and dropped some things down there i shouldn't have on accident fearing it would get into the system i tried to take the top off the reservoir but was halted by the fuel bowl so i tried to pull the reservoir off and was then told that the gasket has a filter in it so i put it back together and now i have a leak .. I have two questions... is it possible to over tighten the reservoir? (we may have cranked down on it a bit but we only used a 3/8 ratchet tho) im hoping i haven't cracked it ..im thinking the gasket just isn't sealing right..
next question, is taking off the reservoir a fairly straight forward process? just the bolts that connect it to the lower half and then there are the bolts that bolt on the fuel bowl correct?
 
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