Front Springs - about that time
#1
Front Springs - about that time
I'm looking to swap the front springs out and wondering if the front shocks need to be changed to compensate. I have Bilsteins up front that replaced the OEM on my 2000 V10 4x4.
1- If I go one step higher on the front will the Bilsteins be over-extended - I was thinking V springs up front ?
2- With only doing the front springs - will the back end now be lower or just leveled now with the front ?
3 - How ballpark $ would a new set of springs run me in parts and how much does Labor typically run for it ?
1- If I go one step higher on the front will the Bilsteins be over-extended - I was thinking V springs up front ?
2- With only doing the front springs - will the back end now be lower or just leveled now with the front ?
3 - How ballpark $ would a new set of springs run me in parts and how much does Labor typically run for it ?
#2
I believe according to the research that Stewart_H has done and has many post's here if you go with the V code front spring you will need to run the F250 Bilsteins at least that's what is recommended.
Installing V's on the front may be slightly higher than the rear and the front springs new will run you about 300 bucks depending where you purchase.
Installing V's on the front may be slightly higher than the rear and the front springs new will run you about 300 bucks depending where you purchase.
#3
#4
OK - I've read what turns out to be a short novel so far from multiple different threads and searches and so far what I've concluded --
I can go with V codes up front and do nothing in the rear and the front may sit a half inch or so higher. I'd like to see about simply adding a 3.5" tapered block in the rear and see if that balances everything out from there. Maybe adding some bags in the rear will also not be bad idea .... hmmm
I just hate having to spend $$ on swapping the front springs for stock and not gaining anything from it
I can go with V codes up front and do nothing in the rear and the front may sit a half inch or so higher. I'd like to see about simply adding a 3.5" tapered block in the rear and see if that balances everything out from there. Maybe adding some bags in the rear will also not be bad idea .... hmmm
I just hate having to spend $$ on swapping the front springs for stock and not gaining anything from it
#6
You are in the same boat I was.
couldn't see spending the money to replace the worn out ones and not gain any height - these trucks have lots of potential!
I picked up my springs after about 2 months of craigslist searching for about $200 total. Fronts had an add a leaf already in them - did the mod on the rear and brought the whole thing up near 4" which was perfect for me.
If you are in a hurry you can get the springs new or the procomp 2" lift ones fairly reasonably too.
couldn't see spending the money to replace the worn out ones and not gain any height - these trucks have lots of potential!
I picked up my springs after about 2 months of craigslist searching for about $200 total. Fronts had an add a leaf already in them - did the mod on the rear and brought the whole thing up near 4" which was perfect for me.
If you are in a hurry you can get the springs new or the procomp 2" lift ones fairly reasonably too.
#7
I'm looking to swap the front springs out and wondering if the front shocks need to be changed to compensate. I have Bilsteins up front that replaced the OEM on my 2000 V10 4x4.
1- If I go one step higher on the front will the Bilsteins be over-extended - I was thinking V springs up front ?
1- If I go one step higher on the front will the Bilsteins be over-extended - I was thinking V springs up front ?
2- With only doing the front springs - will the back end now be lower or just leveled now with the front ?
3 - How ballpark $ would a new set of springs run me in parts and how much does Labor typically run for it ?
You can too...it's not that difficult.
Stewart
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#8
#9
#10
As for price, you can check one of the sponsor pages, but I think the factory Ex/F250 front springs were running about $150 a side - so $300 for set.
Rears were more, about $220 a side. You can get by without a complete swap in the rear and you should be able to just put in a larger block from an F250, an add-a-leaf or even an extra block for the rear for under $100.
I would take care of the front and see what height you end up with and if you need anything in the rear - or if you like the look.
If you keep it around 2" like most folks do then your shocks should be fine.
As for labor. A good shop should be able to do the fronts in 4-6 hours I would think - so multiply that by what your local shops charge.
Lots of instructions and helpful people on here though, so if you have some airtools, a few jacks and jackstands - you and a buddy can knock it out in a weekend - some have done it solo - more manly men then me
just line up your tools before you start so you don't have to run to autozone to rent a 30mm socket midway through. along with all the other help I got here I used this Rough Country link as it had the tool needed, the steps and good pics - http://www.roughcountry.com/install/7582.PDF
Rears were more, about $220 a side. You can get by without a complete swap in the rear and you should be able to just put in a larger block from an F250, an add-a-leaf or even an extra block for the rear for under $100.
I would take care of the front and see what height you end up with and if you need anything in the rear - or if you like the look.
If you keep it around 2" like most folks do then your shocks should be fine.
As for labor. A good shop should be able to do the fronts in 4-6 hours I would think - so multiply that by what your local shops charge.
Lots of instructions and helpful people on here though, so if you have some airtools, a few jacks and jackstands - you and a buddy can knock it out in a weekend - some have done it solo - more manly men then me
just line up your tools before you start so you don't have to run to autozone to rent a 30mm socket midway through. along with all the other help I got here I used this Rough Country link as it had the tool needed, the steps and good pics - http://www.roughcountry.com/install/7582.PDF
#11
#12
Thanks for all the info everyone ! So far I think I'm going to get the F250 ( V Codes ) up front / Ubolts etc..
If it doesn't sit right then I'll step up the rear to new 3.5" tapered blocks/New U bolts in the rear and leave the stock springs etc...
Now I need to go to the CFO (wife) and Plead my case .... lol
If it doesn't sit right then I'll step up the rear to new 3.5" tapered blocks/New U bolts in the rear and leave the stock springs etc...
Now I need to go to the CFO (wife) and Plead my case .... lol
#13
I got new, longer U bolts made at a spring shop for the rear, but my fronts were reuseable(length wise) even with the X code and the extra leaf. the spring shop ones are much stouter looking, so for $40, might be a good idea to replace them. Some will tell you always replace the Ubolts when you do the springs too.
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