I have a 2003 f250 5.4L with ESOF 4x4. Trying to troubleshoot 4x4 issue. Recently replaced GEM so finally got 4x4 to engage, b ut only for short durations. Main issue was that passanger side wheel seemed to disengage out of 4x4. Truck kicks like a buck when turning in 4x4. When checked vaccum, passanger side hub would drop vaccum much faster than driver side hub. When pulled hubs noticed cracked cover on passanger side near o-ring end, with path for leak. Passanger side hub came out looking muddy inside. I decided to upgrade to Warn manual hubs. No problem with swap to 11690 Warn hubs. But did end up with an extra part, the ring clip which did not fit the shaft end. I figured it was not needed for this year truck. Is that correct?

New hubs worked fine but then noticed that the passanger side was still not keeping up with the driver side and rear wheels. I can jack up all four and with 4x4 running, I can stop the passanger side from spinning. Is this a problem with passanger side axle? Is this common? Is my passanger side just not engaging fully even with the warn hubs? Can it be that my differential is shot? Any ideas on what my problem may be? How can I check my seals on my differential? Transfer case seems to spin front axle fine. Don't think is a transfer case issue. Still have a constant noise of metal to metal contact when 4x4 is engaged and running. It seems to come from front axle or differential. Any ideas on what to try next?

 

Its working just fine ,it is not a full locker in the front ,thats why only 1 wheel will spin.
Don't use 4x4 on dry pavement or it will buck,it needs to slip on grass or mud or snow or you will bust up something in the driveline.
by the clip do you mean the clip that goes over the axle stub ?
if yes ,you need that clip to keep the axle stub in the correct place.
unless you have the wrong hub.
not totally positive on that part ,been awhile since I did a warn hub swap.

Rich

 

Yes, you need the snap ring clip to hold the locking hub to the wheel hub and axle shaft.

 

Thanks for your input. When I tried to fit the "axle outboard retaining ring/clip" on the axle stub, there was no groove on the axle stub end to hold the retaining ring. Also, it appeared that the spring-like lock ring and hub cover held the hub body in place. So, I left it off. Since your replies, I did call Warn support and they confirmed that for my year truck that I would end up with an extra set of retaining ring/clips. I think its only needed/supplied for older trucks or Chevy's. Warn instructions seem to call it different things through out the instructions and can be confusing: retaining ring, retaining clip, axle retaining ring, outboard retaining ring. Also, it says that vechicles with independent front suspension MUST have the ring installed. That's what threw me off, assuming 2003 F250s have independent front suspension. I am going to leave it off, since it seems to be working and there is no groove to hold in place anyways.

So, it is normal for the truck to kick as if one side is slipping while I am turning on pavement. I did not know that. My only problem then seems to be the metal to metal noise that I hear when in 4x4. What could this be? I recently filled the front differential, it was empty. The 4x4 has not been working for over a year, due to the GEM being out. I take it my front differential did not suffer any damage. (But I really do not know what the PO did with it. I bought the truck just over a year ago without knowing the true condition of the 4x4. At the time, I did not have the money nor time to try and resolve the GEM issue.) I added 85-140 gear lubricant to the front differential and later realized the manual calls for SAE-90 for the front differnential, 85-140 was for the rear only. Is there a need to drain the front differential and re-fill with SAE-90? Is this enough to cause metal to metal noise?

As long as the front axle is turning, is there a need to check the transfer case fluid level? Could this be causing my metal to metal noise that I hear? What type/grade of fluid goes in the transfer case?

The metal to metal noise seems to be coming from when I spin the front axle (axle shaft between front differential and transfer case). The noise sounds like two metals making contact while one is spinning, not a constant grinding but a scrape or two during one revolution. (Hope that makes sense.) I can hear it when I turn the front axle by hand, even with the hubs not engaged (and wheels not turning). What can this noise be and do I need to repair it to avoid further damage?

Thanks again for your input!

 

I'm not sure but I think you might want to do a search on "friction modifier" for the diff. fluid. I believe it needs to be full synthetic but again I'm not positive.

 

You don't need any frition modifier, that for rear end with limited slip. the weight of oil isn't A big deal. I would pull the cover off of the front diff. and do an inspection.

 

Drain the front diff put the right gear fluid in there.
If it was empty ,oh boy and someone drove with the front hubs locked by mistake.
Your infor some problems ,there are a set of spyder gears that require gear fluid even if the ring and pinon are not moving.Could be your noise problem.
This noise is it constant or when turning the steering wheel?
Don't lock the hubs an use 4wh on dry pavement.
Friction modifier is for the rear diff only(if you have a limited slip rear)

 

It is a constant noise whenever the transfer case is set to 4x4. As long as the front axle shaft is turning, I hear the noise. Noise was present before and after I filled front differential with 85-140.

If I pull the front differential cover off to drain, what am I looking for? Just ground up metal parts? Assuming all is well, I take it I can pull the cover and the gears will stay is place. Is this correct? When ready to reinstall cover, no need to mess with internals, assuming all is well. Is this correct? If so, just pull cover, drain, and re-bolt cover then re-fill. Is a new gasket required or can I re-use existing, assuming still in good condition?

What is SAE 90? A synthetic gear lubricant?

 

How can I tell if/when my transfer case or front differential is shot?

I seem to have plenty of play at the front differential to front axle shaft location. Could this be my problem? The rear axle shaft and differential are tight with no play.

 

I drained the front differential and re-filled it. I also checked the transfer case fluid level. Looks clean and full. Seems odd that I needed a 10mm allen wrench to pull the plug. I still have the noise. I take it it must be due to the play I have at the front axle and differential. Any thoughts?

 

If I understand you correctly, you have play at the front driveshaft to differential connection. Play in the U-joint is easy to see, so I guess you are telling us that the front axle pinion shaft has play. Any chance the nut that holds the U-joint to the pinion shaft is loose? We really need a better description of where/how the play is evident. A picture would help too.

A bad U-joint normally creates noise and significant vibration. The pinion nut would have to be really loose to create the same vibration. Can you move the U-joint end fore and aft to get a clunk?

 

I may not have my terminology correct. I have play (at least 3/8inch) at the front driveshaft (axle/shaft from transfer case to front differential) where it ties into the front differential. I can pick it up and drop it at least 3/8inch. It makes a metal clunk noise when run over bumps. I take it these are the u-joints? Or is the play from the seals on the front differential? I do not have any noticiable leaks in front differential, so I guess its not the seals but the u-joints. Is that correct? If it is the u joints that need replacing, would this cause the metal grinding type noise that I hear?

I take it I would need to take it into a shop to get the u-joint replaced, since I may not have the right tools and know how. Before I do, can I easily take the driveshaft off and then lock the hubs and see if the metal grinding noise is still present, with driving it in 2wd without the front driveshaft installed? This would help me confirm that it is the u-joints not the differential. Is it possible to run the truck like that? Does the driveshaft just unbolt and slip out without impacting any internals or fluids in the front differential and the transfer case? Or am I missing something here about the assembly?

 

I haven't had a front driveshaft apart, so I can only suggest so much. Basically you have vertical movement with metal to metal contact. Likely that the front U-joint has failed some time ago and the previous owner just stopped using 4WD.

As long as the hubs are unlocked and the tranfer case is in 2WD, the front driveshaft just hangs in place. The only thing working is likely the slip joint as the suspension travels (maybe not anymore if the play is that large).

The U-joint probably spit out it's needle rollers a long time ago and the yokes are hammering on the pins. You would definitely get banging going over bumps and metal to metal noise if you ran the 4WD.

I think you should take it to a dealer or local repair shop. If the front axle is still OK, U-joint replacement shouldn't cost too much.

 

I is rare that the frnt u-joint shold go out unless is spends a lot of time under water which makes me wonder about your wheel bearing hubs. Not saying it is the same issue but I would check them and your other 2 front u-joints.

 

Thanks guys for the input. I will plan on taking it into a shop to inspect.

I do see alot of surface rust on the front end components. I take it it has been driven over water often and I live near the salty coast so it may have more ware than normal. Its a 2003 with 88k miles.

I will reply back when I know something. Thanks!