2000 F-250 V10
#1
#2
welcome to FTE, take alook down in the V10 section. theres a bunch of good info to read.
heres the tch folder from the v10 section.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...ch-folder.html
heres the tch folder from the v10 section.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...ch-folder.html
#3
I prefer Motorcraft SP-479 (AGSF22WM) mainly because they are nickel plated. They came from factory in my 04' and you can get 10 shipped to your door from Rock Auto for around $30. I put a dab of nickel antiseize on the threads of the new plugs after gapping them to .054" but the anti-seize is optional.
Change the plugs with a cold engine. Slowly unscrew the old plugs out. Some squeaks and squeals is normal. The plug should not turn out hard so don't force them and go slow. Make sure to blow out the recess in the head with compressed air before removing the plug to get out any dirt. When installing the new plugs start the plugs by hand using a magnetic socket or a piece of rubber hose, then tighten. If your COP boots are original you may want to replace them.
There is enough slack in the wiring harness that you don't have to unplug the COPs from the harness (to prevent harness plug breakage) but #5 is easier to do with the COP unplugged. The #5 plug is the biggest pain in the *** so I would start with cylinder #1 and work your way to #5. Once you get to #5 you will see how things go. The magnetic socket/extension set I have made especially for the 2V modulars makes the job easier.
For cylinders 6-10 on the drivers side removing the intake tube gives you better access to the COPs/Plugs. Since the intake tube is removed its also a good time to remove the throttle body for cleaning and clean the mass airflow sensor.
Change the plugs with a cold engine. Slowly unscrew the old plugs out. Some squeaks and squeals is normal. The plug should not turn out hard so don't force them and go slow. Make sure to blow out the recess in the head with compressed air before removing the plug to get out any dirt. When installing the new plugs start the plugs by hand using a magnetic socket or a piece of rubber hose, then tighten. If your COP boots are original you may want to replace them.
There is enough slack in the wiring harness that you don't have to unplug the COPs from the harness (to prevent harness plug breakage) but #5 is easier to do with the COP unplugged. The #5 plug is the biggest pain in the *** so I would start with cylinder #1 and work your way to #5. Once you get to #5 you will see how things go. The magnetic socket/extension set I have made especially for the 2V modulars makes the job easier.
For cylinders 6-10 on the drivers side removing the intake tube gives you better access to the COPs/Plugs. Since the intake tube is removed its also a good time to remove the throttle body for cleaning and clean the mass airflow sensor.
#5
I believe the premium COP boots we stock at Oreilly's are 5-7 bucks a pop, and come individually. When I did the plugs in my V-10, I decided on autolite double platinum plugs (APP 104). longer service life was my reasoning over the motorcraft platinum plugs, and cost was negligible.
The COP boot will start with 'SPB' but can't remember the number for the life of me. I'll check when I head back to work.
The COP boot will start with 'SPB' but can't remember the number for the life of me. I'll check when I head back to work.
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makomarine
Excursion - King of SUVs
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01-04-2005 11:03 PM