I am hearing quite a bit of talk about 2004 having quite a few bad cam sensors. Not sure if it is as many as what I am hearing about or not since the cam sensor code can occur as a result of a no-start condition (even with a good cam sensor). Maybe some techs can comment .............

 

need tech help, changed oil & filter Drove truck Approx 400mi,doing 65 mph check engine light came on,on bridge could not stop for 2 mi,slowed down for traffic engine shut down,would not start,towed in too dealership,they retrieve codes P2291 ICP too low, P2290 ICP too low,special tool found both valve cover leaking STC fitting leaking air ,they say needs repair high pressure lines at dummy plugs and repair ICP ten retest estimate $3,400.00 warranty expired 5 yrs 7 mo 63000 mi paid $300 for test ,$160 for tow. Picked up truck with trailer and brought home,truck was 100 mi away,will any emissions warranty cover this, 7yr 70,000 mi defects

 

need tech help, changed oil & filter Drove truck Approx 400mi,doing 65 mph check engine light came on,on bridge could not stop for 2 mi,slowed down for traffic engine shut down,would not start,towed in too dealership,they retrieve codes P2291 ICP too low, P2290 ICP too low,special tool found both valve cover leaking STC fitting leaking air ,they say needs repair high pressure lines at dummy plugs and repair ICP ten retest estimate $3,400.00 warranty expired 5 yrs 7 mo 63000 mi paid $300 for test ,$160 for tow. Picked up truck with trailer and brought home,truck was 100 mi away,will any emissions warranty cover this, 7yr 70,000 mi defects

 

Your emission warranty is the same term as your motor warranty. Just 5yr/100k. So no help there. Are you the original owner? If so, then Ford might help, but no guarantees. Ask your dealer to go to bat for you. All they can do is say no. If they won't help, maybe get an independent to look at it.

 

Bill, I think the emissions warranty is 7 years but the hpop system is not under the emissions warranty. Going off the top of my head and there might be a couple of suds there right now. Been working in the yard, watching football and drinking beer.

 

I don't think so, but I've been wrong before. There might be some state forced variations too.

 

Unfortunately, our trucks' "emissions warranty" is just 5 yrs and 100k miles - no state variances.

 

Here is another troubleshooting procedure I found - posted by a Tech (Gofasterdammit) on TDS:

1. Remove glow plugs
2. Make sure the batteries are charged.
3. Disconnect the serpentine belt.
4. Attempt to crank engine.

If the engine cranks normally, install all glow plugs, fire it up with the belt off, it'll be ok. If the engine starts and runs normally with no belt installed, go ahead and replace the A/C compressor with a factory part (no Napa junk), and check for dessicant in the orifice tube. I worked on a 6.0L two days ago that had the A/C compressor seize. The engine would not crank at all. Cut belt, engine starts, repair A/C concern, everything ok.

 

Here is a link to another "unusual" no-start condition that showed up when the fuel tank level got low (say to 1/4 tank):

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...ml#post9500933

(thanks hubler13f)

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Also, the 03 through 05 F-series had fuel pump heaters. They were removed in 2006 on the F series. The E series have them in later years also. It is not typical, but it seems a short in the fuel pump heater circuit can also cause a no-start.

 

2004 f350 6.0 nostart ipulled 8 low inj codes dont know if the codes were already there before the truck wouldnot start checked ficm volts 47.6 key on 47 6 cranking no noticable wiring problems fuel bowl fills starts on ether oil pressure guage works fuses good took out upper fuel filter hard to blow through itried to start it with fuel filter out nothing check engine light on for ayear no running problems fuel guage malfunction code what now

 

This makes my head hurt. Please provide some punctuation. One long sentence is hard to decipher.

If I would take a guess at what I read, I would say FICM or its connections/harness. Make sure all the filters are new and OEM (motorcraft, International, or Racor)

 

I had a post months ago but never got around to updating. My problems turned out to be a bad FICM. Unfortunately, I tried all the tips I could find on here and nothing got me going.
Dealer replaced FICM for $$$$ and it was fixed. Should this happen again, I'll know and just go ahead and swap the FICM for a rebuild. I would have saved over half of the dealer cost.

Since that time, I'm having to plug the engine heater in every night the temp goes below 45 or I get the no power after start condition for about 2-3 minutes. I'm pretty sure its "stiction" on the injectors but hesitate to do anything for fear of toasting another FICM. As long as I plug it in, I get a quick start in the morning and its ready to roll with little to no warm up time.

 

sorry about the long sentence, not good on computer. i checked voltage again with my wife . turned key to on and voltage was 21while inj pre cycled once the stopped it jumped to 47.6 ? thanks

 

Assuming your batteries individually test good on a load test machine, then you have a bad FICM. This is consistent w/ all 8 injector codes.

 

How long should the batteries last? I haven't had them on tenders at all. Original batteries in 2005. Do I wait til they die or make the change at a particular interval?

BTW, I plugged in the engine heater last night. Only down to about low 40s this morning. Started right up and ran with normal power immediately. Temps in the 40 w/o the heater lead to very low power for a few minutes after start.