my 03 fuel pump check valve is bad and won't hold pressure. I need instructions on removing the tank. The fuel lines do not have the normal ford connectors (push tool in and pull) but have blue tabs that look like you compress them and they disconnect. Is that right. Also after removing the straps is what lines need to be disconnected to get the tank out? it also looks like the sway bar needs to come. out to get the back of the tank down. any help would be appreciated.

 

OK, I did mine today. Its a PITA!!! Unless there is a reason to, I don't think you need to pull the tank completely out. If you take both straps off and lower the front to the ground you should be able to get the fuel pump out, it just take some work. We disconnected the two rear hoses on the fuel filter, they go up to the fuel pump. Take the fuel pump out with those hoses still attached so you can see what you are doing. I just used a screwdriver to release the connecters on the fuel pump end. If you have it out, you will see how they work.

 

thanks for the advice. I will try what you describe. I think I will also loosen and disconnect the fuel filler hose in back of the tank. No need to remover stabilizer bar on back axle? thanks

 

I didnt remove the stabilizer bar, I just let the tank rest on it. Its kinda a pain to change the pump like that, but I think it was alot better than pulling the tank all the way out.

One more thing. I took the spare off and the drivers rear tire off and put jack stands to hold up that corner. Also jacked the front drivers side up a bit to make a bit more working room under the truck.

One of those clear plastic lines on the fuel pump had a hole it it when I pulled the old one out. The new one had a sleeve over that spring to prevent that from happening again.

 

removed tank and installed new fuel pump. 2003 4.6 L XLT 2x4
step by step (adding to JeffHann74's excellent advice)
1. removed spare tire per to allow more room
2. blocked front wheels and applied parking break
3. disconnect negative at battery
4. Jacked up drivers rear using jack that came with Expy this allowed me to put jack stands under the rear frame and under the frame below the drivers seat.
5. loosened and removed the hose clamp attaching the filler tube to the tank spout, I think it was an 8mm socket, flexed hose and removed the hose from the tank spout.
6. removed the fuel filter cover and removed the 3 fuel filter line. these have blue connectors that you pinch and then pull the lines out (very easy).
7. in the front of the tank (by the drivers seat against the underside of the floor) there are two fuel lines one large and one small. the large one had a green connector that I squeezed both sides and pulled this connection apart. The small line with a purple connector I left connected because it is connected to the fuel filter and has enough flex to not interfere with tank lowering. both these lines are attached by a plastic holding clamp in front of the tank. pop the locking tab off and remove these lines from the clamp. You will notice the small line is also held to the tank by a plastic yellow squeeze holder. I pulled the fuel line out of this.
8. Placed my hydraulic jack under the tank with a piece of wood between the tank and jack and raised it until slight pressure was applied to the tank.
9. took a 1/2 inch socket and extender and removed the back strap and then the front strap.
10. removed the front strap from the truck and left the back one dangling.
11. began lowering the jack and the front of the tank about 4 inches. you can now see the electrical connector to the fuel pump. disconnect this.
12. lower the tanks another 3 or 4 inches. the back of the tank will rest on the stabilizer bar. there is also a 3/4 to 1 inch hose attached on top of the tank near the back drivers side tire, I did not remove this. it has enough flex to get the job done.
13. You should now be able to see the pump with a Jar lid looking screw down holder on it. you will also see dirt and debris in the depression on the tank around the fuel pump. get compressed air and spray this clean to prevent the stuff from falling in the tank when you remove the pump. If you don't have compressed air a hose and water would work.
14. get white out or some other marking paint and make a mark on the tank and Jar screw down lid. this will tell you later how far you have turned and tightened the lid when you reinstall it.
15. My screw down holder was on very tight and could not initially be unscrewed by hand. I took a rubber hammer and a wood dowel and tapped the tabs of the lid in the unscrew direction. after a few beatings, the lid began to unscrew and I was able to unscrew it the rest of the way using my hand.
16. Once unscrewed, carefully lift the pump out of the tank. you will have to manipulate it a little to get it out but it will come out. along with the pump will be the screw lid, two fuel lines which go to the filter and the pumps electrical connector. The pump is spring loaded and can be compressed a little to clear the way. make sure you have enough room to get the pump out of the tank and the Expy's floor above it. if not lower the tank a few more inches and it will come out. there is also a green rubber gasket that seals the new pump to the tank. it just lays on the tank when you remove the pump but make sure it doesn't fall in the tank when you remove the pump.
17. take the old pump and the new pump, make sure they match. disconnect one of the fuel lines off the old pump and place it on the new pump. Mine were attached with a purple connector that you pop the little hold down clamp with your fingernail and once open, squeeze the purple connector ends and push up. this will disconnect the line from the pump.
18. install the new green rubber gasket around the tank before you place the new pump in. the gasket fits in a groove on the tank opening.
19. place the lines on the new pump and maneuver the pump back into the tank. make sure you have placed the Jar screw lid over the lines and electrical connector before placing the pump in the tank. Be careful not to bend the float or damage the pump. it will take some wiggling to get it in there but be patient.
20. Once the pump is in the tank, you need to depress the new pump with one hand while slowly threading on the jar lid. I found it easier that way because I didn't have the upward pressure of the pump countering my downward pressure on the jar lid. Once the screwing down of the jar lid begins you can take both hands and turn the lid until its almost tight. this is where the white line up marks come in handy. slightly tap the lid on its tabs until the lid meets the line up marks you made in Step 14.
you can also press down on the new pump and be able to tell there is no downward spring action because the pump is now secured and tight to the tank.
21. Follow the direction in reverse to reconnect everything.

Took about 3 1/2 hours by myself. Empty tank (low gas light was on) do not do this with a full tank and no smoking. beers can be enjoyed afterwards. Also another set of hands would have come in handy and probably cut one and a half hours out of the job. I'm a shade tree mechanic and say this is not real difficult. most of the time I was working from the front of the tank laying on my side under the passenger side of the vehicle.
Hope this helps.

 

good job on the rite up I wounder how close it is to my 2000 with the 5.4

 

Oldie,but a goodie.

First search on dropping the tank & I get a great write up,thank you very much! Installing a 255lph fuel pump as step one of the lightning conversion on our 04 Expedition

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Just a heads up for the 03-04 5.4 2v or Gen I Expy's folks out there considering the swap,parts are getting alot harder to find. Ford has discontinued many important items. Alt bracket,throttle bracket,cruise,throttle cable,misc other items,but not as important as those. Considering I have everthing on hand,I can share this information lol

 

Well, I am glad its not something I will have to do again.

 

Your not kidding JeffHann.Took me about 3hrs today,pulled the truck over a mechanics pit which made it simpler for me. Only thing I would add to the great instructions above...is have some little stainless steel band clamps on hand for the small hose that attaches the fuel pump. Mine had one of those compression type clamps,once used they are useless. I was lucky to have some small clamps on hand for that.
Also, the walbro's are slightly longer,but it all went together in the fuel pump housing easily. I also had to use a band clamp to retain the fuel level sending unit along the pump case,the little screws that attached it were offset slightly due to the added length of the pump. Overall,simple following the above directions,just alittle time consuming.

Now the real fun can begin...