'Fraid not.

Manual Transmission Identification Guide - FORDification.com

It's the T-19 that has the syncro-1st.

What differentiates between synchronized and un-synchronized, I've always heard/read, is the cut on the gear. Un-ynchronized have a spur-cut gear, and synchronized gears are helical cut. Helical is very easy to shift into because the gear turns when you're sliding up onto it.

That, and I have a 435 in my truck. Sometimes you have to play with the shifter to get it to get into first.

You can, however, double-clutch and go into 1st. But, for the loads an F150 is designed to haul, you shouldn't have to do that.

 

Matt, I was pretty sure the NP's were UNsynch. At least in our trucks. It's that way in my 250.

Then again, it's all synchro if you know how to work the feets right.

 

This ^^^^.

 

Haha, I actually made a point to try learning that. Came in handy the other week when I was hauling 3ton of concrete in traffic. Other than that, like 83 has said, I never had to use 1st gear. Even starting on hills 1st has such a limited mph cap that I choose to get going with 2nd and a heavy right foot. Maybe a little slip when needed.


And you're correct on the cut of the gears. I guess in the old days machining made the cost of curved gears ridiculous? Still not sure why the NP is unsynchro'd unless it was retooling costs or the straight cut adds strength.


And about that chart '81 posted: surely a 250 can tow above a class I, right? I'm pretty sure the hitch I have is a 3 or 4.

 

Humpph. I see I am wrong. I have driven a NP435 and remember being able to shift from 1st to 2nd while moving, so I thought that meant it was synchronized.

Ford Manual says of the NP435: "The first and reverse gears are spur cut (Fig. 2). The second, third, and fourth gears are helical cut and are synchronized to permit easier shifting."

Ok, my bad (again)!

 

No no, you're right. 1-2 is fine. But in my limited knowledge, I think that's because 2nd is cut. Downshifting to 1st is where it gets noisy.

 

Well, the 435 has been around since the late 60's, so I guess it wasn't a big deal back then. Who knows?

The Muncie's had varying degrees of helical cuts that were used in their transmissions.

EDIT (to prevent posting up a storm of double-posts):

Maybe you got lucky and hit the right RPM's by some chance? Dunno.

It's no biggie though, part of the learning (and in yours and my cases, sometimes re-learning) process. Teck, makes for a nice transmission thread if anything.

 

I don't know how to rep you for that, otherwise I would. Since we're on the subject, I've had this idea to eventually make my old 85 F150 (300 six with 4sp manual od and 3.08 rear end) more suitable for towing/hauling. I know I don't have the skill set requesite for transplanting a zf5 (base on Gary's thread I don't think I have the customization skills) so I've been kicking around the idea of putting a T19 or NP435 backed by a gear vendors unit and changing the rear end to something more tow/haul friendly. I figure, if the gear vendors people are to be believed regarding durability, this should give me the ability to tow/haul anything I want (within reason) and maintain the highway cruising fuel economy. Its more expensive possibly than the zf5 swap, but I'm pretty sure I could do the tranny swap myself. Am I crazy here?

 

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Gary is having trouble because he's retro-fitting a ZF5 to a 351 Modified. The ZF was meant to go behind 300's, 302's, 351 Windsor's, 460's, and diesels. The clutch is what he's playing with, it'll bolt up just fine though.

If you can find a ZF with the "small block" bell-housing pattern, it's an easy swap.

You'll need the transmission cross-member if I remember right, you'll need to convert to a hydraulic clutch which means grabbing the pedal bracket and hardware from a 1984 to 1986 manual truck if yours doesn't fall between those years (84 to 86 has the firewall support bracket, the correct clutch and brake bracket, and the lines and plumbing for hydro instead of the 83 and older mechanical setup), and you'll need a new clutch to go with your 5-speed syncro'ed granny and overdrive transmission. I think a rear drive-shaft too.

I don't know what all is needed if it's 4x4, but I imagine a transfer-case cross-member, the appropriate transfer-case, and the front drive-shaft.

Other than that, I think that's all you need to do.

Personally, I think the ZF5 shifters aren't as "pretty" as the 435's.

It'll be a lot more cost effective to swap in a ZF than to try and use a Gear-Vendors.

 

What about a rear end swap? Depending on what you want to tow and what ratio you have now that could be a viable compromise JB. There's a ton of companies making gears for the under 10in Ford axles. I've seen everything from under 2.5 to near 6.XX.

 

Yes! I would think this would be the easiest route to go.

If you don't want to swap rear-ends, you could re-gear. Properly re-geared and gone over, you wouldn't have to worry about the rear-end failing for a long time.

I'd shoot for 3.55 or 3.73's with a limited slip if you re-gear. Off-road use, put in a selectable locker, and ONLY lock it on the dirt. You can have a pretty wild time if you lock it on asphalt and go into a curve or try to turn.

Don't forget, re-gearing or putting on a different set of tires means a different speedometer gear as well. If it's 2wd, you can re-gear the rear and be done, if 4x4, you got to have the front matching the rear.

FTE needs a live chat or some such.

 

See below....

Yes, the problem I'm wrestling with is because the ZF wasn't made to go behind the 351M/400 engines. Yes, it'll bolt up but the M-block flywheel sits almost 1/2" further forward than that of a 460 - from whence the ZF comes.

But, if you have a 302, 351M, or a 300 six you are "in". The only issue with the above is that there isn't a cross-member for the transfer case - they hang out off the back of the tranny. Other than that, the info is spot-on and the ZF should be an easy bolt-in for this series engine.

 

I misconstrued the nature of Gary's problem. I have an 85 so I may need to swap a few extra parts in the zf5 swap but it should basically be a bolt in situation. That changes everything. Truthfully I would like a zf6 but I'm not that ambitious.

 

There seems to be confusion above ^ regarding synchro/non-synchro, in that - the NP435 & the T18 are both non-synchromesh on 1st gear only (& reverse obviously), but both are synchromesh on 2nd, 3rd & 4th.

As mentioned, the T19's are synchro on all 4 forward gears, whether close or wide ratio versions.

Straight cut (spur) gears are strong & can transmit higher loads, but are noisy.
Helical cut teeth maintain progressive tooth contact as they turn, so are quieter, but because of the side thrust created, can't tolerate the same loading as an equivalent straight cut gear.