351W cam help
#1
351W cam help
Is there a good book or something out there with detailed instrustions on how to change a cam in a 351W? I have only done it in a 4cly ohc motor.
We are running a stock motor and need a little more "pop" I was thinking a cam might help.
5/8 mile dirt track if that helps.
Thanks.
We are running a stock motor and need a little more "pop" I was thinking a cam might help.
5/8 mile dirt track if that helps.
Thanks.
#2
I used to see these questions asked and always thought...
"fill out the form the cam companies want and find out?"
Well I followed my own thinking and got stupid advice. :(
Could have done as good picking one with my eyes closed. :/
But in your case... they might be able to help you since
you are not doing something weird like I'm doing? LOL :)
Post what the cam companies recommend it'll be easier
for your-help to help-you?
Alvin in AZ
"fill out the form the cam companies want and find out?"
Well I followed my own thinking and got stupid advice. :(
Could have done as good picking one with my eyes closed. :/
But in your case... they might be able to help you since
you are not doing something weird like I'm doing? LOL :)
Post what the cam companies recommend it'll be easier
for your-help to help-you?
Alvin in AZ
#4
#5
To replace the cam is simple but will take time the first time
Disconnect the battery, Take out the radiator. Take of fan belts pullies, Take off valvecovers, back off rocker arms. By now the radiator fluid should be drained out, so you can take off intak carb pull dist ect. It helps if you have the engine at topdeadcenter befor you pull the distributer. Now you pull out your push rods, and lifters. Go back to the front of the engine take off, water pump, harmonic balancer, then front cover (dont forget about the bolt threw the oil pan into the cover) take off timing chain, and the cam retainer. Becarefull when pulling the cam as not to damage the bearings. Reverse process to assempble, But I always put cam in and cam retainer then do push rods and rockers while valley is exposed.
If you are changing the cam, you will have to pull the heads to change the valve springs if they are not a match. DO you know how much piston clearence you have? I am assuming it is a built engine. What RPM range do you stay around at the track. What is your compression ratio? You are goijng to have to time your cam, using a degree wheel.
Degreeing it can change the hole cam profile. maybe your cam just needs adavanced?
I have alittle knowledge on Oval track. It mostly requires a good midrange cam. I could off the top of my head reccomend a cam I had personal experience with.
Comp cams grind FW 2858-6 Part # 35-609-5
It has about 592 grosslift@.56 250 $ 260 duration exhaust @ 50 springs needed are 950-16 lobe sep is 106
This is an agressive cam, that needs to be put in at 6% advanced. It makes great midrange HP. It will wind up fast! and pop like a mother at idle. She idles around 1000 rpms in an engine with 15 to 1 compression.
I reccomended that cam in my buddies oval dirt track, and he came out of the hole like a rocket sled on rails A sling shot. I also ran that cam in a drag car It turned 100's 1/4 mile
Disconnect the battery, Take out the radiator. Take of fan belts pullies, Take off valvecovers, back off rocker arms. By now the radiator fluid should be drained out, so you can take off intak carb pull dist ect. It helps if you have the engine at topdeadcenter befor you pull the distributer. Now you pull out your push rods, and lifters. Go back to the front of the engine take off, water pump, harmonic balancer, then front cover (dont forget about the bolt threw the oil pan into the cover) take off timing chain, and the cam retainer. Becarefull when pulling the cam as not to damage the bearings. Reverse process to assempble, But I always put cam in and cam retainer then do push rods and rockers while valley is exposed.
If you are changing the cam, you will have to pull the heads to change the valve springs if they are not a match. DO you know how much piston clearence you have? I am assuming it is a built engine. What RPM range do you stay around at the track. What is your compression ratio? You are goijng to have to time your cam, using a degree wheel.
Degreeing it can change the hole cam profile. maybe your cam just needs adavanced?
I have alittle knowledge on Oval track. It mostly requires a good midrange cam. I could off the top of my head reccomend a cam I had personal experience with.
Comp cams grind FW 2858-6 Part # 35-609-5
It has about 592 grosslift@.56 250 $ 260 duration exhaust @ 50 springs needed are 950-16 lobe sep is 106
This is an agressive cam, that needs to be put in at 6% advanced. It makes great midrange HP. It will wind up fast! and pop like a mother at idle. She idles around 1000 rpms in an engine with 15 to 1 compression.
I reccomended that cam in my buddies oval dirt track, and he came out of the hole like a rocket sled on rails A sling shot. I also ran that cam in a drag car It turned 100's 1/4 mile
#7
Join Date: Jun 2006
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Changing the cam isn't hard but it will take some time, just strip the motor to the bare longblock.. remove intake, valve covers, water pump and timing cover. Then remove rockers, pushrods and lifters, timing set and thrust plate, and then carefully remove the cam twisting as necessary to get past the cam bearings. Installation of the new cam and lifters is reverse order with breakin grease applied to everything, also a good idea to install a new timing set.
If this is a stock truck motor and head work isn't in the picture you can get away with close to 0.500" lift and 220-230 deg duration at 0.050", though a more conservative cam would better match the heads and produce power up to about 5000rpm where the heads choke the motor off anyway.
If this is a stock truck motor and head work isn't in the picture you can get away with close to 0.500" lift and 220-230 deg duration at 0.050", though a more conservative cam would better match the heads and produce power up to about 5000rpm where the heads choke the motor off anyway.