Hello all, I've read hundreds of threads as a guest, but this is my first thread/post as a new registered user. I live in NC and found my truck for sale in TX so I flew there and bought it and started driving home. I got almost halfway, and it stalled out on the highway. I coasted onto the shoulder to a stop and tried restarting it. It ran really rough spewing out white smoke and stalled again after a minute. I had to wait 20 minutes or so and restart it several times and drive until is stalled and coast in order to get off the interstate down an exit ramp into a hotel parking lot. I had it towed the rest of the way home and decided to try to fix it myself. I tore into it thinking it was an injector problem. Sure enough the lower O-ring on the #8 injector was blown. I decided to just replace that injector with an new one from Tousley Ford. I also replaced all the other O-rings on all injectors. I replaced the oil standpipes and dummy plugs as well. I replaced all glow plugs and glow plug harnesses. I replaced both fuel filters and changed the oil and filter. I got it all back together and and it wouldn't start. My thought was that there might be air trapped in the fuel rail or another fuel issue and decided to invest in a Driven Diesel regulated return. I got it installed and everything put back together, and still nothing. The fuel pressure is good. So i bought a Scangauge II, and found that the ICP was 0 while cranking. The IPR duty cycle is at 14.4 with KOEO, and around 77 while cranking. The FLP is around 12, and the FMP is around 48.5, SYC is 1, and CVI is 5. Could it be something simple that I can check without having to tear it back down again?
Its a 2005 F250, 128k miles, EGR delete installed by previous owner.
Sorry for the long story, but I'm at a loss and need some advice.

 

I forgot to mention that I checked for LP oil by removing the oil filter cap and watching as my wife cranked it. It filled within about 5 to 10 seconds, so I don't think its a low oil pressure problem. Also, I unplugged the IPC sensor and still wouldn't start.

 

there is a small button inside the oil filter housing, remove lid and filter and look inside you will see it at the bottom. hold the button down with a long screwdriver and have someone crank engine over. the housing should fill with oil if you have base oil pressure.
post back up with what happens and someone willl suggest your next step

 

remove ipr and check screen for damage, sucked in, torn or full of debris. if found bad replace ipr and retest.
if unsure post pic of valve

 

The housing did fill when I checked it before, but I was not holding down the button. I tried to do it again holding the button down with a screwdriver and the batteries didn't have enough juice to crack it. So I connected a charger and have to wait a bit before I can try it again.

I believe I know where the IPR sensor is, but I'm not sure how to get to it. Do you have to remove anything to be able to take it out, like the turbo?

 

if you have an ipr socket you need to remove the ficm and rear bracket. if not pull turbo.
0psi with base pressure is 95% time is ipr

 

Thank you for your help cheezit.

I pulled the turbo and removed the IPR valve. From the best I can tell, the screen doesn't appear to be damaged. Is there anything in particular I need to look for?







If the IPR valve is good, now what could it be? Oil cooler or HPOP?

Or could it be something I messed up putting everything back together? The standpipes and dummy plugs seemed simple enough, and I put oil on the O-rings before installing. The oil rails seemed to line back up good. I rubbed some grease on the outsided of the oil spouts before putting them back on. One thing I've been wondering about is if there is an O-ring on the top of the injectors where the oil spouts go into the top of the injectors. The O-ring kit I bought didn't come with any of those, just the copper ones, the two on the outside body of the injector and the blue one for the harness.

 

there are o-rings under the injector d-ring. they dont come in the kit. you may have a stc at the pump. try an air test. i hate being wrong but i would try to find a knowen good ipr to try if possible assuming you know you have base pressure and you say it fills up the filter housing

 

That IPR looks fine to me. Of course, looks can be deceiving. That said, I get the impression you didn't crank the engine over long enough and ran out of battery juice to continue cranking long enough to build up enough pressure for the engine to fire up. That's my two cents.

 

How would I go about doing an air test? What fittings would I need to buy and where would it connect?

I have no idea where I could find a another IPR valve without ordering one online, and the cheapest I can find is $150. If I have to buy another IPR valve, I've been looking at an HPOP with a new IPR valve and updated STC fitting for $640 at accuratediesel.com. I'm tempted to buy that and an new oil cooler, but that's a lot of money and there's a chance it still won't start. If I have to go that far, might as well take off the oil rails again and replace the O-rings under the injector D-rings.

 

To get the orings for top injector you need to go to an Aliant Power Dealer

ALIANT POWER INJECTOR ORINGS PART# AP0002
http://alliantpower.com/seals.html
ALIANT HOME
Home | Alliant Power

 

NOW is where I say you are getting a little carried away with your parts replacement diagnosis approach to your issue, which is going to get expensive real quick, and needlessly. The question you need to ask yourself is what caused your truck to die on the highway to begin with. Thus far, you report seeing a bad injector as the only bad component that you could visually condemn during your disassembly/re-assembly. The rest of the other parts were replaced as a "while we're in there" type approach which I see nothing wrong with. But I think before you drop another set of parts that are going to cost you at least another G-note, you need to get your hands on a scan tool that can, and will take live data readings as you attempt to start your engine before you do anything else. Get both your batteries fully charged and crank the engine over with a booster connected, or better yet, TWO boosters if you can swing that.

 

I agree, its crazy to keep throwing money into it without knowing what's causing the problem. I'm just getting a little bit frustrated and anxious to get it fixed since I've only driven it one day since I've owned it for a month and a half now. I considered buying the autoenginuity scan tool over the scangauge II, but went with the scangauge, so I could have it this past weekend versus waiting another week on shipping, not to mention cost difference. All I have currently is a small 6 amp battery charger, so I would have to buy a booster or two.

I am interested in finding out how to do an air pressure test to see if I can find a leak. I don't know how to do it yet, so I'll do some research when I get time.

 

I agree with Mike Throwing parrts is going to get spendy

Its Too Close to Christmas for that anyway

Your Numbers point to a HPO Problem No Doubt

If it were me Id get the Stuff to Hook an AIr Compressor to the ICP Hole and Do an Air Test

 

Supply B+ and B- to the IPR to close IPR while shop air supply is connected to a fitting threaded in place of the ICP sensor on the passenger side valve cover.

How you supply power and ground to IPR can be achieved by either using a scan tool to active command IPR duty cycle to 100% (or close to it), using an old wiring pigtail like that used on a 7.3L injector or 6.0L turbo VGT (all the same as the one used on your IPR) and soldering in a length of wire with alligator clips that you can connect to the battery directly, or grounding out pin #2 of the middle PCM connector with the ignition key in the RUN position. All of the above will achieve the same effect.