anti-theft acting up
#1
#3
#5
Did this problem come about after some event????
Is this an auto tranny 4.0L????
If so, maybe suspect the tranny TRS/Nuetral Start Swtch, maybe it's electrical connector is loose, or maybe it has coorosion on, or mechanical damage to, it's electrical connectors pins or sockets, or damage to the wiring to it. Make sure the TRS fastners that hold it in place are snug too.
Let us know what you find.
Is this an auto tranny 4.0L????
If so, maybe suspect the tranny TRS/Nuetral Start Swtch, maybe it's electrical connector is loose, or maybe it has coorosion on, or mechanical damage to, it's electrical connectors pins or sockets, or damage to the wiring to it. Make sure the TRS fastners that hold it in place are snug too.
Let us know what you find.
#6
#7
after 10 yrs installing security I do not understand why messing with the shifter would matter. I am not aware of any sensors to monitor that, door sensors, hood sensors and an ignition voltage sensor but a shifter sensor would be a new one.
Are you sure tha this is a ford FACTORY alarm and by factory I do no mean the dealer installed it? Alot of dealers contract installers for next to nothing to slap cheap alarms into their cars. They are not paid enough to care or spend the proper time on an security install and often take shortcuts that wear out after 5-6 yrs like T-taps and other bad connections.
A nearly bad batter will also drive an alarm nuts........... How are you sure it is still good?
Are you sure tha this is a ford FACTORY alarm and by factory I do no mean the dealer installed it? Alot of dealers contract installers for next to nothing to slap cheap alarms into their cars. They are not paid enough to care or spend the proper time on an security install and often take shortcuts that wear out after 5-6 yrs like T-taps and other bad connections.
A nearly bad batter will also drive an alarm nuts........... How are you sure it is still good?
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#8
Yes it is ford factory it has a theft light that flashes in the dash and has a chip in the key,the battery starts the truck fine it has been almost dead and it would still turn over but just click so i know the theft system will still work with an almost dead battery,now when it acts up the theft light flashes real fast and i have to wiggle the shifter(automatic tranny)to get it to start and then the theft light does not flash.got me puzzled also.i also had a good mechanic tell that my computer was bad thats why my computer was not kicking the compressor for the air conditioner on so i ahve a computer on the way,could that be my theft system problem also.thanks kevin
#9
FWIW, the '98 Ranger factory alarm has something called an "ignition lock anti-theft theft switch" which is part of the ignition key lock assembly.
The ignition lock anti-theft switch (19A438) can detect when the ignition key cylinder is broken or "slam pulled" during a theft. The ignition lock anti-theft switch is always monitored by the remote anti-theft personality (RAP) module. This allows the alarm system to be triggered in case the ignition lock anti-theft switch detects tampering of the ignition key cylinder (even in the event the alarm is inactive at the time).
#10
Yes it is ford factory it has a theft light that flashes in the dash and has a chip in the key,the battery starts the truck fine it has been almost dead and it would still turn over but just click so i know the theft system will still work with an almost dead battery,now when it acts up the theft light flashes real fast and i have to wiggle the shifter(automatic tranny)to get it to start and then the theft light does not flash.got me puzzled also.i also had a good mechanic tell that my computer was bad thats why my computer was not kicking the compressor for the air conditioner on so i ahve a computer on the way,could that be my theft system problem also.thanks kevin
If you can get it to start by wiggling the shifter I'd say it is a clear indication that it is not the computer causing the theft system to malfunction.
I would unhook the shift cable from the transmission (be sure the parking brake is set and wheels chocked) and manually shift it from P-N-D-D-2-1 and shift it back to park. See if it starts. If it does your problem is a misadjusted shift cable. With years of wear on everything I would not be suprized if it was the cause of your problem. If the vehicle is not completely in park, it will not allow it to start. See if it helps the problem and post back and I or another member can tell you how to adjust the cable.
Regarding your A/C issues, did the mechanic put guages on both the high and low side and manually cycle the compressor? From your past replies it does not seem like it, and chances are you would find the cause of your issues if the test was done. As far as I know the ECU does not control the climate control system, there is a separate controller for it.
I have worked on dozens of rangers and explorers and have had the issue you described several times. Every single time it was either too little refrigerant in the system, too much/too high pressure, or a faulty high/low pressure cut-out switch. If the compressor will engage and then immediately disengages I assure you it is one of the above. In my experience whenever a mechanic doesnt feel like performing the proper diagnostics or doesnt have the knowledge to properly diagnose the problem they ALWAYS blame it on the computer. I can not tell you how many vehicles I have repaired that were previously diagnosed with faulty computers and only one actually needed a computer. I suggest that you find a new mechanic and take it to a competent shop equipped to do A/C work. You will find that proper diagnosis is much cheaper in the end than throwing good money at bad.
Just my .02, please let me know when you find the route of the issues.
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