Well the rookie is back. With 0 carb and older truck experience i need some help again. At this point i am still trying to get this old truck running better and i have come to the next thing on my list. Trying to get it to stop bogging now on me.

At idle if i press the gas pedal to quickly it bogs down and almost dies. Also when i slowly put the gas to it, after about maybe 1/2 throttle it bogs out as well but if i give it more gas then it snaps out of it. It happens while it was driving but i just figured i had it in to high of a gear but when it was in neutral while sitting it got me a little concerned. I dont even know where to start. lol

 

One very real possibility is the fuel filter could be plugged or greatly restricted...on the fuel pump, theres a can screwed onto it...the filter is inside of it. The filter is easily obtainable at a local parts store. Theres a gasket between the can and the pump body so breaking it loose will probably be difficult. Clean the can off as much as possible of the grease on it. Assuming you have a 352 in your truck, the can will be under the pump and you will need to get under the truck to get to it. Remember that when you look up at the pump lefty loosy righty tighty...If you have the 6 cylinder the can will be on top of the pump as installed on the engine.
The problem is that most people dont realize the fuel filter is in there and it never gets changed, let alone looked at. I recently opened up an old OE pump a friend gave me as it still worked as I recall...that filter was hideously full of everything but the kitchen sink...lots of rust which is from the fuel tank...
The filter is a cheap and most likely needed part at which to start your cure for the stumbling.
There could be other things as well, but lets try the cheap and easy stuff first...be careful though with the can as most stores nowadays dont sell just the can...


- cs65

 

Holley?

Power valve is blown.

Garbz

 

(sigh) This is absolutely nothing new, it's the usual problem associated with 2V Auto-Lite/Motorcraft carburetors.

Very common for this to occur on 1963/74 2V car/trucks.

Bogging down, hesitating, stumbling from a dead stop or when accelerating at speed =

Defective accelerator pump diaphram and check valve.

These parts are located behind a cover on the front of the carb with a lever on it. 4 bolts retain the cover.

WARNING: When removing the cover, do it carefully...there's a coil spring behind it.

These two parts can be bought separately or come with the carburetor kit.

D4AZ9A586A .. Carburetor Kit (Motorcraft CT499D)

C4AZ9B559A .. Accelerator Pump Diaphram (Motorcraft CM463)

C4AZ9576A .. Accelerator Pump Check Valve (Motorcraft CM825)

btw: What CS65 says about the fuel filter rarely being changed is correct. But...your problem...more than likely...has nothing to do with it.

Regardless, here's the cartridge fuel filter info: C4AZ9365B (Motorcraft FG1A)

ALL these parts are still available from Ford and most autoparts stores.

 

Im nearly positive it is a 352, the vin was decoded and thats what it says it has. and it is the origanl engine but was rebuilt maybe 5k miles and about 10 years ago.

So it is probably closer to 360somthing. I just changed that filter you were talking about(the oring on the top of the can blew out more or less, and was straying fuel all over. I also have been changing out the inline filters (rust problem after i put some seafoam in the tank). I cleaned the carb with the spray can stuff. its not any better. So i bet it is that common problem with the auto light carb. I didnt think it was a holly but i will double check in the morning

Thanks again guys

 

F100/350: The last Holley 2V was factory installed in 1962.

 

lol alright, so it isnt the holley then. But while we are on the subject of carbs, will one of the new 500 cfm 2 barrel hollys fit on the intake?

 

I dunno about the holley...but my autolite is working like a charm...just rebuilt it is all...be careful though about undoing the fitting from the carb though...easy to bugger it up...and start by hand as much as possible going back together...just gotta hold the line in that spot where theres no load on the nut to screw it in ...
What did the filter look like you pulled out ??? How much crud was sitting in the bottom of the can ??
also, if you do remove the cover on the accelerator pump note where the link rod is as theres 2 holes...it should be on the inboard hole...also...as to the diaphram...with the cover off and the diaphram off you SHOULD see a small round rubber seal at the rear of the cavity..make sure thats not cracked or otherwise bad as well...theres a hole its pulled into which if its bad or missing will be something you gotta take the top off the carb...which can be done on the truck if you are careful.

One thing...if you havent already...get some carb cleaner and spray the heck out of it...before you open it up...
And if theres a tag on the top of the carb, post the info here...and on the driver side of the main body theres 3 numbers 1. something or other...the truck AutoLite should be 1.14...thats the venturi size of the carb...Theres also some small stampings on the driver side front mounting ear of the carb visible installed on the engine...that would be something like a C5TF and another letter...if those are there, post what you have...there were 3 different carb variations used on non California manual trans trucks. Small differences, but nonetheless differences...


- cs65

 

well there was a little slug type stuff at the bottom. not very much though. It look like the inline filters had been keeping most of the stuff out of the filter on the pump, it was a little discolored, not to bad, a few small peices of rust. But the o ring on the filter and the o ring on canister were shot. Ill post those numbers in the morning. Ive sprayed some of the carb cleaner stuff in there. ill put some more in, cant hurt right?

 

The carb cleaner is to douche the carb...chasing the crud out of and away from the carb...on a carb on the engine you dont wanna fill up the bowl or spray down the bowl vents as carb cleaner wont burn too good...but if its just the area where the accelerator pump parts go it should be ok...just wipe it off with a clean rag as you go...it doesnt take much crud to cause carb problems..
As for the inline filter/s..if you have 1 or more BEFORE the fuel pump itself...I hope those are the cheapy clear plastic ones...can see what comes out of the tank and main line before it gets to the fuel pump...there not being much crud in the filter can is a good thing...but nothing wrong with a new filter though...before you put the filter can back on, if you havent already done so...I would douche the fuel pump a good bit...a common place to catch lots of grease and muck...I dunno about you, but I hate working on greaseball engines which is why I always try to clean the area around where Im working as best as possible.


- cs65

 

Yep, i hate it. im still trying to get the engine bay cleaned up.

I had to use the 66 this morning just to go about 1/4 mile and it was running extreamly $h*tty. much worse than before.

I am using those cheap plastic in line filters just one of them at a time, when i was changing the oil today i decided to just change the inline filter too( it didnt look that dirty this time) in fact last time it was WAY dirtier. But it turns out there was a peice of rust blocking off the part of the filter.

With the new filter on it ran like the champ it is. it had some very very slight sumbling and hesitation, but nothing it hasnt done the whole time ive had it.

but the top of the fuel pump is leaking. It is at the top where it looks like there are alot of little rivits holding it together. nothing super major but it needs fixed. I dont want it to drip onto the manifolds when im driving and ignite

 

There were 2 different types of fuel pumps used on these trucks originally...both were Carters...one was whats called a sealed type where the top and bottom halves of the pump are crimped together. This pump has no servicable parts inside of it.
The second type is what it sounds like you got...the 2 halves are screwed together sandwiching a rubber diaphram in between them. If you are leaking from between these halves tighten the screws a little bit...dont reef on them as the housing is aluminum or potmetal. either way, you dont wanna strip out any of them screws.
If this pump is caked and covered with what looks like 40+ years of slime and grime its quite possible the diaphram has torn or is in the process of doing so.
You said the truck had been sitting a long time before you got it...correct ??? The outlet line to the carb at the pump may be leaking as well...dont use plumbers teflon tape on fuel line fittings ever...gasoline turns it to goo and makes a big mess inside of things if left to it own devices.

Post some pics of what you have when you get a chance...or email to me if you wish.


- cs65