liquid roofing tar. messy but works

 

stuff like tar,and rock gaurd and other heavy coatings that are sprayed on and are thick will eventually crack and lift,and this usually doesn't take long.once this happens water and salt get under the coating and stay there,causing rot,and its hard to tell until after its too late.

 

I use Krown on my Samurai. The rust pretty much stopped. It is messy though, it gets on your clothes if you're not careful!

 

On my '96 XLT I removed the bed, lightly sandblasted the exposed frame and coated it with semi-gloss POR15. It came out beautifully and in 1 years time has yet to look rusty or even chipped. The frame has a decent amount of surface rust on it, but nothing serious. I replaced the shackle mounts, sandblasted them,. too (they were NOS) and painted them to match. Now I have to tackle the cab frame area, I stopped right behind the rear window. I must say, POR is the best bang for the buck-it looks nice, holds up VERY well and is easy to work with. IMHO, you get what you pay for...
Roger

 

I like the sound of the krown application. I could not find any dealers in the states, so I e-mailed krown corp. for dealer locations. For the longest time I drove a 81 Malibu, this car had all of the inner panels coated with a black tar-like coating that stayed soft/oily. I haven't seen that car in a couple years, but I bet to this day it has not rust. Sounds a little the krown product line. I believe that rust is part of the planed(engineered) obsolescence of every vehicle, and that their are Protestants out there That would extend rust damage beyond what Detroit ( OLD Detroit ) wanted. Does anyone have any guesses what the crown product is made of ( formula ) ?

 

i would aslo look at eastwood's rust encapsulator , its a a product meant for this, you will need to top coat, i would suggest a good epoxy primer and a coating like these guys are saying a thinned rustoleum for spraying would work well

 

I was just looking under my 'new' 01 and noticed that it is rusting in the same place (bed rails to frame) that my 95 did. I am leery of 'painting' it without some kind serious prep work. I have heard of motor oil and kero/diesel does work pretty well and should be easier to apply. Garden sprayer?

 

Linseed oil is the stuff. My wife ground off all the rust she could, then put boiled linseed oil paint all over the frame, etc. of her blue truck. It's been almost a year, and the stuff is still stickin'. And it's about the safest stuff to use, wrt. exposure; made the driveway smell like a woodworker's shop when she was applying it. It'll require some touch-up every year, but not a complete re-application. "New to her" green truck (just purchased a week ago) gets it next.

 

There are a lot of things you can do, some that cost money like coating the frame of your truck or some that are cheap. I worked at a trucking company a few years ago and the mechanic there was spraying something underneath his truck. I asked him about it and he said its messy but every winter he sprays used diesel oil on the frame of his truck. It creates a coating that protects it from rust and it was free since the oil changes are done there. I didnt believe it too much myself but when I crawled under it and looked it was virtually rust free. There was some rust but not too much.

 

"all corrosion is electrical" -Richard "Curly" Hastings metallurgist

The zinc (galvanizing) sacrifices itself for the more "noble" iron, see it? :)
Even areas not covered by the zinc. You can see that action on certain
things, if you look close and now know the mechanism. :)

Pipelines use the concept and they call it "cathodic protection".
You can also see ships with the zinc blocks attached to the hull.

"adding stainless fasteners can worsen the corrosion situation" -Curly

Stainless containing large amounts of Chromium acts the opposite of zinc.

Not sure how any of that will help, but there is the theory anyway. ;)

------------------------

I use motor oil on battery terminals and it has buffers in it but I believe
it mostly just seals out the air and so prevents the oxygen from reacting.

At work we had "NO-OX-ID" grease (with lots of buffering in it) and the
motor oil worked -better- IME because I believe the specilized grease
was too thick and didn't coat as good as the motor oil.

At first was just thinning the NO-OX-ID grease with motor oil for "cold;)"
weather use and found out it worked better thinned out with motor oil
so just kept at it expecting to get it too thinned out and stop working.
Figured I'd just go back to the mixture that worked best and call it good.

Well, eventually tried straight motor oil with top-notch results. {shrug}

So the idea of motor oil, ATF, diesel fuel etc all sounds like a good idea
to me. :) Edison battery company sold bottles of oil to put on battery
terminals and supplied some with all their new batteries. It was thin and
clear and and non drying and some said it was vegetable oil.

Edison batteries had sodium and/or potassium hydroxide in them.
And the older batteries I worked with had a metal case, no plastic.
They were high maintenance. ;)

I found the motor oil to work better than their oil on all the different
types of batteries I was maintaining...
nickel/iron
nickel/cadmium
zinc/air
"lead acid" (lead/lead oxide with sulfuric acid)

Alvin in the un-rusty southwest :)
And retired railroad signal battery janitor. :)
ps- http://www.antiquebottles.com/edison/
Heck, I can tell that wasn't written by a railroad signalape because
there were -way- more signals (and batteries) used for train control
than road crossing signals, even downtown.
Cool, I have one of these I kicked out of the dirt while "rollin' a train by"
during the late 70's at the crossovers at Draggon AZ...
Bloomfield 2+1/2oz Oval-Flask Cork
http://www.antiquebottles.com/edison/codes.html

 

Ford started to completely cover their frames with thick wax -starting around Model Year 1992.

My 18 year old 92 still has the factory wax coating on it-and no frame rust at all.I can dug my fingernail into the wax on the frame. But then-I live in Colorado that usually has single digit humidity. The only undercarriage rust is on the parts not coated in wax- the front and rear spring hangers.radius arm supports-ect. And this is just surface rust-the rust got under the factory paint and corroded from underneath.

Apparently the factory wax and paint coating doesnt stop frame rust in the rust belt.

What happened to your frame wax up there in the rust belt?? Does the salt eat away at the frame wax??

 

WOW... I'm going to Colorado to buy a truck. I cant imagine that. lol
Hey phoneman91, when I removed my back bumper, I had a big pile of RUST from the bumper brackets, you could just scrap it off with your fingers. haha. brackets were down to about half the thickness of the new ones I put back on!

I too wanted to protect/preserve my truck, I had the bed off sanded the frame with body grinder w/ wire wheel. I used a product called Chassis Saver. I think any of the under car coatings are good. They just need to be applied. I did all the way up to the front. I just used car ramps for under cab and removed front wheels and sanded everything I could, with small wire brush and scraper for hard to reach places. I did the bottom of the cab too. Did everything I could. It's mostly a labor job.
and a messy job..

 

Colorado uses salt out here in the West-but we may have only 6 or so snow storms per season at my altitude of 5800 feet. I had thick rust on the spare tire carrier -so bad that the PO removed the spare and put it in the bed.The carrier looked like it was going to come apart in the middle because of the rust. Like your bumper brackets-one could remove the rust in big clumps from the carrier. But the frame and the body has no rust at all!!!

The neat thing about Ford is that FOMOCO are still making parts for our trucks!! I bought a brand new spare tire carrier that was made just 4 months earlier. I also bought a brand new front grill that was made just several months earlier. And a new radiator!! (I dont want to place Chinese parts on my American pickemup!)

After a snow storm-I take the truck to a coin wash and lay on the ground and spray overhead on the bottom of the truck with high pressure water. Especially in the fenders. Colorado is nice in the sense that it can become 60 degrees after a major snow storm and allows one to clean their truck of salt.

What is that Chassis Saver?? Is it a paint or a surface conditioner?? Got any pictures of your undercarriage after the application?

 

You need to paint that spare carrier with chassis paint! lol...
just google it and read... there are other products, that's just what was here locally at auto body store. It's like paint, pictures?
just check my gallery and see my project from the spring... I painted everything with it, even the gas tanks.. suppose to be good stuff but OMG it is messy.

 

Another vote for some POR-15, used it on several vehicles over the years. It's easy to use, brush it on or spray it on. You don't even have to get all the rust off before you apply it. It needs to be painted over or it will fade and breakdown in direct sunlight.