So the copper truck, 77 F350, had a gauge cluster with the composite back that turns to dust. I had fixed it several times, but finally decided to replace it. The best replacement I found was from an 80s Econoline on eBay. So that's what I got... The cluster came with the Econoline bezel...
But the back was standard for our trucks
The bezel was attached by 1/4" hex head screws
And came right off

after preparing the new cluster, I set about removing the old cluster...

 

Pulled the screws from the bezel



Bezel out, remove the screws from the cluster



Cluster ready to pull



The hole left behind



The speedo cable and the harness

Then it was time to install the new cluster...



Fits like the old one



Speedo and harness connected



Screws in

At first, the right turn signal didn't work, nor did the headlamp/washer bulb, so off to O'Reilly...




Replaced the illumination lamps with LEDs



Bezel back on



Now the gas gauge doesn't work, but it's getting late and I'm tired

 

Papabearyuma,
nice!

Interesting, just learned something new.
just want to see a "night time" pic
hope you get the go-go juice gauge figured out

 

Thanks, I'd also like that. Here we go:



just the instrument panel illuminated



With the headlights for reference

 

I need to get some of those led bulbs, those look good

 

I think these were the ones I bought at O'Reilly:



$15 for the pair, but I'm sure tempted to do the other two trucks...

 

definitely worth the $15

 

2X wow almost need sunglasses
I needed a reason to go see the guys at O'reilly's

 

Got the fuel gauge working!

First thing I did was ohm out the sender unit. Tank is full, and read about 12 ohms across the terminals. Tested the sender to chassis ground, and that was good, too

opened up the dash and pulled out the harness for the tank selector. The green line was showing infinite resistance to ground-an open circuit

Couldn't find a wiring diagram for a 77, but other years are supposed to have a 8 pin plug at the firewall. Couldn't find that, so I ran a test line from the sender to the selector harness. Gauge then read full. So I routed and secured the new line and put the dash back together. Done.

Everything works!

Drove around just to watch the gas gauge go down. Coming up the hill, a ricer tried to pass, so I tested the kickdown. It works!

 

Save the cut off wiring plug that was in the back of your new cluster. Find the wire that is for the ground, strip an inch or so, & mark it. Figure out what wires go to all the lights, strip the wires back & twist them all together. Now you can plug it in to the back of a cluster, hook the ground to a battery charger ground, red to the lights wire, & test all the lights before you install a cluster in a truck. Lots easier to test, clean & replace bulbs with the cluster out of the truck!

 

thanks-that's a great tip! I knew I kept the old harness for a reason...