Thanks guys. Man, I wish I had tried this before I dropped it off today. I guess if they call tomorrow and try to tell me it needs something expensive I'll just take it home and try this first. It needed a tire balanced anyway.

 

The method of bleeding that I have used for 28 years is a little different than described yet very similar.
Two man job.
Get a 2 foot piece of fuel line and an empty pop bottle to catch the fluid in.
Fill the reservoir to the brim.
Put one end of the fuel line over the bleeder head and the other end of it in the empty container.
Open the bleeder and have the other guy in the cab of the truck pump the pedal all the way to the floor, repeatedly until the brake fluid has gone down to the "Min" mark. It will take about 10-15 strokes of the brake pedal to do that.
Doing it this way will force the brake fluid through the system and flush any air bubbles out along with it.
Also replacing all the old brake fluid with new.
When the fluid level gets low, have the guy in the cab of the truck hold the brake pedal all the way down on the last stroke, and close the bleeder. Then he can release the pedal.
Fill up the reservoir again and proceed to the next wheel.
Do this in order of longest to shortest brake line.
RR, LR, RF, LF.
If you have to go around twice and use two quarts of brake fluid, so be it.
You will have a very high, very responsive brake pedal after that if there are no other issues.

 

Thanks guys, that write up is excellent Dan. So I got a call from STS. The guy says that there is no air in the system, and the only issue he could find is the part of my front rotors are rusted and pitted, so the pads only hit about half of the rotor. THis is very possible given my corrosion issues on the rear. But, would this cause a squishy pedal? He didn't sound convinced, but says all he could do is replace the rotors and pads.

 

I just got off the phone with STS. He said that they bled them, and didn't get any air out. He said he would bleed them again. Then I asked him how the rusted rotors was connected to not feeling the thudthudthud of the ABS. He said air in the lines wouldn't effect the ABS. Is this true? Someone on there said that air could be in the ABS system?

 

Bleeding the brake fluid through should carry any air bubbles away.
With your brakes rusted out like that you only have half of the pad actually doing any work.
The equivelent of having little tiny brakes installed on your truck.
That will definately do what you are describing.
Jamming the pedal down with very little braking action.

 

Alright, so I got it back from the shop. They said they bled them twice and no air came out. The front rotors are rusted, the pass. side much worse than the driver's. I got 2 quotes of $680 for new front rotors and pads. I'm 17 and $680 hurts really bad! What can I do? I am willing to do it myself, but will that save me much money? The labor is only an hour or two, so the parts are really expensive. I'm not totally sure it really NEEDS pads, but it sure needs rotors. Any brand suggestions? I am really on a budget, no help from the Daddy bank. I just need to be able to stop when I need to. Also, is this something that I can do feasibly? I'm no stranger to the wrench, I've done a lot of work on this truck (water pump, EBPS and tube, and a bunch of other stuff) but I tend to bumble and mess up silly stuff.

 

guess what...go down to your local parts store and ask for a set of rotors for your PSD...i bought 'em today for mine, the rotors were $102 each, and the pads were $48...a helluva lot cheaper than $680...and yes i had to get dirty to do it, but i also repacked my bearings...really dirty job...so, you can pay them to get dirty, or you can get dirty and save $400...your choice, but, either way, fix it...hehehehe

 

What he said.
It's just nuts and bolts.
Git 'er done!

 

That's wild! Why are the parts so much more expensive on the shop receipt?
That settles it! It'll get done tomorrow, Friday at the latest. Are there any of those awesome FTE write-ups out there for this? I (literally) could not live with myself if I mess this up.

 

They have to make a living.
Shop rent for vehicle repair is outragious compared to a lot of other places.
They have us by the junk and they know it.

 

Probably not....but, just fire away with those questions and we'll help you out...just keep turning wrenches...17mm boxed end wrench or socket, a bunch of a$$ to break 'em free, a 6 inch C-clamp, to compress the caliper pistons, a 13/16 boxed end wrench for the brake pad "frame", a pair of channel lock pliers to remove the spindle nut, cotter pin, etc., at the parts store, buy the rotors, pads, a can of Moly grease...even ask the parts counter guy to show you how to repack the bearings, new rear seals (@ $4 each), brake parts cleaner, shop rags, and then get dirty...we'll talk to you tomorrow...later...

 

Here is a link to Guzzles pad and rotor replacement writeup. Hope this helps you out.

http://www.guzzle7pt3.com/pshawk.php

 

I dont know about a 350 but my 250 front bearings are sealed. I did not see if his is 4x4, mine is so a 2 wheeler could be different.

 

WAY different.
2wd is a simple spindle bearing, like a trailer axle.

 

Really is a piece of cake. I changed brakes on my F150 in about 2 hours, in the dark with a flash light swatting at bugs.
If they have them get a set of speed bleeders. they ROCK! when bleeding brakes.

Geez the Super Duty brakes are huge.