I'd be scared to death to buy a used FICM right now since it's SO hard to tell one that's in process of failing. Ask for one from an 03/04 and you might get it cheaper. No difference in performance at all and it will have to be flashed anyway. At least you'll have one with some kind of guarantee.

 

Every day I kick myself for not taking AT LEAST the FICM out of the 2005 that I rolled ...... . They are vibration sensitive I know, but I only did two 360's (and the hood might have been kinda hard to open).

 

Wow. What prompted that little fiasco? Did you "walk" away?

 

Wet highway, very soft shoulder! I did walk away, but there were a lot of news station cameras around when I did. They all shut down pretty quick when they saw that there was only a minor amount of blood. I think they were dissapointed.

I did get a spare EGR valve out. At that time, I had bought a spare and had disconnected the installed valve. I had connected the harness to the spare and wired it down in the engine well. I had just enough space on one side of the crumpled hood to reach in and disconnect/unwire it.

After I buy a high output alternator, I will probably buy a spare FICM and send it off to get a custom program. For that reason, I like to keep an eye on these threads for the places to shop for a FICM. I too would probably not buy one off of EBay. Too much risk for me. I am in no hurry, so, if enough folks recommend a reliable seller (in the $350 range), I will probably jump in!

I wonder if someone would offer a discount for a "group" buy??

 

Well, looks like I need a FICM as well. Or at least the dealership just called and said so.

Bottom line is, anyone have a known good FICM they're willing to sell? Stock preferred and I will be happy to send you mine. If so, please PM me.



If you're interested, here's the story (sorry for the length)
I just purchased a 2007 F350 XLT SC 4x4 DRW Auto. The truck has 148,500 miles, is completely stock except for a B&W gooseneck hitch, headache rack and toolbox. It seems to be in excellent "mechanical" condition. No leaks (other than some minor seepage from the back of the engine pan and both rear axle seals), fluids look and smell good, belt and hoses look good, starts perfect, runs smooth, has good power (boost seems normal), no smoke, shifts normal, drives like new. Hour meter says 3128 hours. No evidence of any (shoddy) work being done anywhere, especially under the hood (no obviously misrouted wires, lines or broken connectors etc).

So, I test drove it about 10 miles and it was perfect. Close visual inspection was good. Price was $14,999, so I bought it (traded in a 2001 Jeep WJ for $4,500) and left $11,335 lighter in the wallet.

Drove about 50 miles the first day/night. Next morning drove to work (25 miles) and everything was perfect. Left work and about 1 mile from work the CEL lit up (steady on). I didn't notice *any* driveability related symptoms. Still running smooth, shifting normal, good power, no smoke etc. Got home and swung by AutoZone and pulled 12 codes (4 were duplicates). The codes were:

P0261 - injector 1 circuit low
P0264 - injector 2 circuit low
P0267 - injector 3 circuit low
P0270 - injector 4 circuit low
P0273 - injector 5 circuit low
P0276 - injector 6 circuit low
P0279 - injector 7 circuit low
P0282 - injector 8 circuit low

Hmmm.... OK... I go home, do a close visual inspection under the hood again and find nothing. So I disconnect both batteries for about a minute, reconnect them and fire the truck up. Same as before, all systems go and no CEL.

Wife I and go out and drive around for about 20 miles and everything is perfect.

I drive to work this morning and about 11 miles in, the CEL lights up (steady on) again. A co-worker just happened to have a Actron code reader (same one the AutoZone guy used), so I go out and plug it in and low and behold, it says 12 codes (again 4 duplicates) and lists the same thing.

Next morning, temp about 75deg, I went to start it and it was pretty rough. Kind of like running on 4 or 5 cylinders. Gave it a little throttle and it responded and smoothed out a little, but still rough. Let off the throttle and the idel was low (about 400rpm) and very rough. Hmmm.. Gave it enough trhottle to hold it steady at about 1,100rpm and it was a pretty smooth. Did this for about a minute, then let off the throttle and the idle seemed normal and smooth. Waited another minute then put it in drive and drove off and it ran just fine. Smooth, no smoke.

Yesterday morning, it wouldn't start. Cranked fine, indicated RPM, glow plugs and oil pressure fine. It cranked at what I felt was a normal speed, and tried to start (some firing on various cylinders), but no start. This went on for about 15 minutes. I did each crank cycle no longer than about 10 - 15 seconds. Eventually, while cranking, I got a TBC Fault indication. I looked it up on the 'net and it seemed to be an indication of battery voltage getting low during cranking.

I hooked up a set of heavy jumper cables to my wife's Accord and put my battery charger (about a 15 amp unit) on the other battery.

After about 10 - 15 minutes, I tried it again and it started, but had really pronounced loping / rough idle, with a lot of black smoke. I applied enought throttle to bring it to 1,000 rpm and it was very smooth and no black smoke. Let off the throttle and the looping / rough idle and black smoke returned. This symptom continued for about 2 - 3 minutes, then it suddenly smoothed out and the black smoke quit. At this point it idled smooth and had good throttle response and no smoke. I headed on in to work (25 miles) and it ran PERFECT. When it's warmed up, this truck is so smooth and has great throttle response, power and no smoke.

 

Man, sorry to hear that you're already experiencing issues with your new "toy". FYI, I have been following this thread and others pretty closely in the hopes that I'll figure out what's up with my truck...it runs great, starts great, hauls "OK" (just OK) but it's down on power across the entire range.

I've put it back to stock (using an SCT Livewire setup) and ran for about a month, hauled an 8,000lb load to the race track last weekend and had it in +65hp mode, agressive shifts, etc. and it did OK but not normal...got home and programmed the 100+ hp mode and drove back and forth to work a few times, same thing, runs great but down on power.

I'm pretty sure I'm going to get codes read other than what my Livewire (I think the SCT Livewire system is pretty lame with regards to codes) and from there may go to the dealership for a full dianostic...I'm thinking I have one or two bad injectors, judging from my issues last Winter.

Good luck on finding a good FICM, I saw a few on eBay last night while looking around at injector prices.

 

Well, right now the upside to my problem is that I just spoke with the used car dealer I bought it from and he said he would be willing to go half on the repair, but he would prefer to use a mechanic that he uses (works on and drives Ford diesels) and buy the parts from his local Ford dealer, because he gets them at cost.

So... I'll go pick up the truck from the dealer here in Austin (and pay the $90 diagnostic fee) and drive it down to New Braunfels Motor Company and let them fix it.

I imagine that this will wind up costing me about $350 - $400, all said and done, which isn't bad.

Hmmm... I sure hope I'm not hijacking this thread. Sorry if I did.

 

Let me give you a heads up here. The truck will have to go to a dealer to have the FICM flashed. It's not just buying the part and replacing it. It comes blank as in NO PROGRAMMING, so unless NBMC has a Ford IDS they'll have to take it to a dealership also.

 

Right. I told the owner of the dealership and he spoke with his tech, who verified it. What he's going to do, is get the part, have the tech install it, then tow it over to the local Ford dealer and get it programmed. The dealer I bought from, NBMC, get's parts and other discounts from the local Ford dealer and then he has the diesel tech who gives him discounts.

As long as it gets a new FICM and NBMC covers half, I'm happy.

 

Sweet deal at least the person that sold it to you is going to cover some of it. Usually they tell you to go pound sand. BTW those FICMs alone cost $350-400 with a deep discount, wish I had a bunch of FICMs to help everyone out lol.

 

FICM's will generally set 8 injector circuit codes and a p0611 before they die.

The voltage drops below the required 48v that is the key sign they are failing. Sometimes when you get one that starts and runs like ****, you can actually watch the FICM voltage climb slowly on the IDS up to 48 volts and it runs better and better as the voltage climbs.

 

any body out there have a FICM they want to sale for cheap that works

 

Ok guy's just joined as a new member I'm needing some help PLEEESEEE! I just took my 2006 F250 into the shop after the check engine light came on. Have 3 injectors bad which are being covered under the extended warrenty I bought. But my fuel injector module is also bad. Ford place wants $927 to replace it???? Can anyone help me out with this. Can I purchase one cheaper somewhere else of does anybody have one they would like to get ride of. Any help will be greatly appreciated!

Thanks,

 

You should start a new thread for your issue instead of hijacking someone else's. If your FICM is bad, they should replace that before doing injectors, since the FICM could be causing the injector symptoms. You can get remanufactured FICM's from Brown's Diesel for around $400, I wouldn't buy from Ford if I had to pay for it. Why doesn't your extended warranty cover the FICM?

 

Sorry for posting in the wrong place I just found this current post through a google search. Thought I could get some useful information from this site so I joined. The extended warrenty company says that the particular part is not cover under my contract. The 3 injectors are already replaced and I'm still trying to get them to go ahead and replace the other injectors covered under the warrenty, which expires July 31st. Just trying to figure out some options to get the FICM module replaced cheaper. Which means I would have to go and get the truck and I'm not even sure I can drive it without replacing the FICM.