Installing a new yoke
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Installing a new yoke
I'm trying to install a new yoke on my rear end after the old one broke when my u joint went out on I5. I got the new one but when I go to tighten it down, the pinion pops out about 1/4". Am I doing something wrong or am I missing something?
Last edited by JTyler11688; Jul 8, 2009 at 04:00 PM. Reason: Typos
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From: MICHIGAN
Our sterling axles have a very tight fit between the pinion and yoke to begin with. When a yoke breaks the pinion spline is likely twisted. BTW: They twist under normal use anyway. It will take a lot of torque (4-500 ft lbs) to force it on. Do not use an impact wrench, the pinion bearings will suffer.
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Well I got the yoke put on, but when I gave it a test drive, it didnt quite work right. Under acceleration its fine, but when I coasted or hit the brakes, it jerks like I'm locking the brakes. I'm thinking maybe the pinion bearing might be shot(?) but I don' know. Anyone have any Ideas?
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From: MICHIGAN
It sounds like you didn't get it tight enough and now it's jumping a tooth or it's too tight and bearings a locking up.
How did you get it tight?
I would not drive it until the diff has been opened up and inspected for damage. There is a lot of very expensive parts in there.
The following is best left to those that know how to rebuild a diff:
There is a crush washer between the two pinion bearings. It requires a hundreds of foot pounds of torque to crush it but....The pinion bearing pre-load is measured in inch pounds.
IIRC it's 15 in lbs with old bearings and 25-30 in lbs with new bearings. You will need a dial type torque wrench to measure it.
BTW: the axles need to be removed to check it.
How did you get it tight?
I would not drive it until the diff has been opened up and inspected for damage. There is a lot of very expensive parts in there.
The following is best left to those that know how to rebuild a diff:
There is a crush washer between the two pinion bearings. It requires a hundreds of foot pounds of torque to crush it but....The pinion bearing pre-load is measured in inch pounds.
IIRC it's 15 in lbs with old bearings and 25-30 in lbs with new bearings. You will need a dial type torque wrench to measure it.
BTW: the axles need to be removed to check it.
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I think its possible that I got the wrong yoke. The one I got looked the same but it was off of a late 80s early 90s f350. My dad says my 95 came with one of 3 axles so I'm not sure. My old one wasn't much to compare to so its hard to say. I dont have a lot of experience in rear diffs so I'm not too eager to pull stuff apart if I don't know how to get it back together.
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From: MICHIGAN
You have a sterling 10.25 long yoke diff.
This is your likely culprit:
There are 2 sterling 10.25 diffs.
One short yoke, 92 and older and one long yoke 93 and newer.
These were also found on a F350:
dana 70, 1961 - 1983
dana 70HD, 1980 - 1997
dana 70U, 1980 - 2002, smaller pinion bearings than a standard dana 70
dana 80, 1988 - 2004
This is your likely culprit:
There are 2 sterling 10.25 diffs.
One short yoke, 92 and older and one long yoke 93 and newer.
These were also found on a F350:
dana 70, 1961 - 1983
dana 70HD, 1980 - 1997
dana 70U, 1980 - 2002, smaller pinion bearings than a standard dana 70
dana 80, 1988 - 2004
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So I probably got the short yoke then? I imagine that would throw it off... If I get a new yoke from the stealership could that take care of it?
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Post Fiend
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From: MICHIGAN
Look for a ring and pinion shop or a shop that does differential repair in your area. If you are not in a hurry get one online...it's still going to be expensive for a good one.
IIRC the short yoke is around $150
the long yoke is around $270
I've seen them as low as $90 but it will likely fail....just like your original did.
Look here for more info on diffs
http://www.ringpinion.com/Default.aspx
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This repair is as good as any at pissing me off... I bought this yoke from complete off road. I installed it on my truck and put my driveshaft up to it and... go figure. The U-joint is almost an inch too narrow. My theories...
Maybe its not the Sterling axle after all?
I had the draveshaft repaired... maybe the repair shop put the wrong U-joint in it?
The new yoke needs a special U-Joint to work with this truck?
I'm honestly confused and so frustrated with how much $ I am into getting ***** that doesn't fix my problem... can anyone help?
Maybe its not the Sterling axle after all?
I had the draveshaft repaired... maybe the repair shop put the wrong U-joint in it?
The new yoke needs a special U-Joint to work with this truck?
I'm honestly confused and so frustrated with how much $ I am into getting ***** that doesn't fix my problem... can anyone help?
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And the fun never ends. Note to self... don't order anything from Accu Auto Parts. I ordered a yoke from them for a 93 & up 10.25 w/ 1350 U-Joints and straps... they sent me a short yoke. So...
Anyone in need of a Long yoke w/ 141o U-Joint of a short yoke w/ 1350s?
Anyone in need of a Long yoke w/ 141o U-Joint of a short yoke w/ 1350s?