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BALL JOINTS - My turn - HELPFUL HINTS/LINKS

  #31  
Old 04-30-2011, 09:54 PM
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Worked on mine today. Almost 92,000 miles on the Ex and hub bearings have been screeching so figured I would replace them along with the associated seals and ball joints all at the same time. Taking everything apart was a breeze. Trying to get the old ball joints out not so much. I got one lower out and that's it. The ball joint press is pretty much bending instead of actually pushing. Taking both knuckles to my buddies shop in the AM so that I can finish. I would recommend bringing the knuckles to a shop and just paying for bench work everything else is simple. I have a much better appreciation for the good old king pin dana 60 knuckles that are in my jeep. They are so simple to work on.





 
  #32  
Old 04-30-2011, 10:11 PM
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Originally Posted by bkeese
Help, I can't get my axles out. I've tried prying and hammering from the back and it won't budge. Any ideas? It was rusty in there. I've cleaned up the rust and spayed PBlaster. Nothing.
Once you get the axle wiggled just a little bit out get your pry bar in behind the dust seal of the inner axle and you can really get some leverage by pushing on the flat area. Pry at 10, 2, 7, and 5 o'clock positions till you work it out.

 
  #33  
Old 09-27-2011, 01:39 PM
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Great thread guys, it helped me change ball joints, seals, u joints on my 04 Ex. But i have a problem. My steering wheel now isnt level. i know about the camber inserts and i didnt think they moved but what can i do now?
 
  #34  
Old 09-27-2011, 02:46 PM
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Originally Posted by kraylake
Great thread guys, it helped me change ball joints, seals, u joints on my 04 Ex. But i have a problem. My steering wheel now isnt level. i know about the camber inserts and i didnt think they moved but what can i do now?
So if you mean your steering wheel is not centered, you should have it aligned after ball joint replacement.

Now if you want to try to just center your steering wheel this should help:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/7...with-pics.html
 
  #35  
Old 08-08-2014, 12:40 PM
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Originally Posted by 71-4R3SONS
The squeeking was driving me crazy!!! My X has 69K miles and I knew it was time to change the ball joints. I spent the last two days (15 hours) doing the job... time would have been much shorter if it wasn't for my OCD .

With the right tools, and the internet almost anything can be accomplished if you have the confidence to tackle the job!! .

I did not realize how bad the ball joints actually were. When I did the "test" I could move what wheels what seemed like at least 1/4 inch up & down... way too much play.

Here's some helpful hints and the links to into I used.

1.) Racerguy's thread was what gave me the confidence to do the job.

How to replace your Super Duty Ball Joints - Page 4 - Ford Truck Enthusiasts F

...and yes, I read each and every post.


2.) This write up was the BEST... lots of pics and info.

2004 F250 Ball Joint Replacement


3.) Another "how to"...

TheDieselStop.Com - www.thedieselstop.com


4.) Mercury45 did a write up too...

http://www.angelfire.com/fang/mercury/ball.pdf


5.) SUPERDUTYPSD did a write up worth reading too...

Ball Joint Replacement Write-Up For Ford F250 F350 Superduty

6.) And finally, Guzzle's needle bearing lube site was copied "just in case".

Guzzle's 4x4 Needle Bearing Maintenance Web Page


7.) Here's where I got the knuckle seal driver (a decent price-$60) It's steel and it worked like a charm.

OTC 6695 Vacuum Seal Installer OTC6695


8.) Some good answers to questions that reinforced info from other sites...

Tight Ball Joints? - Diesel Forum - The Diesel Stop.com


I got my "rental" tools from Advance Auto. The Ball Joint kit is the heavy duty type with a retail value of $169... it had all the parts needed... it was extra-heavy duty. I got the 2 / 3 Clawed puller too... I used the 3 inch and 2 claws for the tie-rod ends and the 3 clawed 6 inch parts to pull the hubs. GET THIS... without it, I know it would have been a itch to get them off.

To pound off the knuckle I went to Autozone and got the #27021 Pitman Arm Puller. It was wide enough and took the punishment of my 8 pound BFH like a trooper. This tool was a "free rental" too.

d
Dude your summary of posts/resources is very much appreciated!
 
  #36  
Old 08-11-2014, 10:25 AM
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Autozone ball joint press 270230 WILL NOT WORK

This Autozone (GREAT NECK OEM Brand) rental ball joint press 270230 WILL NOT WORK.

Dont waste your time. You will be able to get them off, but not back on. The press is too small.

OEM/Ball joint/U-Joint press set (27023) | Ball Joint Press | AutoZone.com

And the ball joint you can press on will require you to use a socket and hammer to start it and a metal bar to finish getting on as per the pics.



 
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