Tried to adjust this to no avail. I could only shorten the rod by maybe two turns and no change in the boost reading. I can hear the turbo whining and no boost leaks.

I guess I need to check the guage next.

 

I have to adjust mine, as I can only hit 14 psi with the red line plugged in, unplugged I can hit 20 psi. Can this be adjusted on the truck? Or do I have to remove the turbo? This is with stock injectors, running no tune.

 

Yes, you can. Tie a thread to the C-clip, or have a magnet near it, before removing it. Thread the turnbuckle in until the eye can just fit over the wastegate pin. You may need to apply a little air pressure to the actuator diaphragm to extend the rod slightly to make the connection.

 

Dental floss makes a good leash too.

 

now you tell me.. I had taken the outer turbo cover off to replace the compressor wheel and had to take the little "C" clip off,, no problem keep my hand on it..

get the outer cover off, old wheel off, new wheel on, cover back on, figured it would be a piece of cake to put the clip back on.. started pushing and it FLIES off.. DAM..

SO i put the lever back on and used some wire to hold it down on the lever and figured i would get a couple of new ones and replace it soon as the weather breaks around here.

what size is that c clip waytheby.

 

Here is a clip number that was recommended by another member in an old thread.
NAPA Circular Linkage clips - part number 7352640 I believe it actually a package of a couple different sizes.

 

Does anyone have a picture of what a properly adjusted wastegate looks like?

 

I would also like to know what 'metric' is used to determine proper adjustment.

Short of looking at boost and fidling with it.
Mine leaks for sure, I can hear leak at max boost.

 

Well, that's a loaded question.

I for one, do not believe "tightened all the way down" is proper adjustment. I did that when I first put my 38R on - and the truck felt like it ran into a wall when boost went up. Turns out I was making over 40PSI, and didn't have large enough injectors to burn the excess air, so I was losing something like 150HP compressing air I couldn't use.

After dropping my boost down to 14-15PSI, my truck ran a lot better.

Now, as to "proper" adjustment...
There are two parts to this.
First, is initial preload. This can be done on the truck (I've done it before), but it is SO much easier with the turbo sitting on a bench.
If you're doing this on the truck, a hooked pick is essential. Also, you'll need some way to keep from losing the C-clip. Some people suggest using dental floss... I just lay a paper towel sheet under the back of the turbo.

Instead of writing all of the steps, search "Wastegate Preload Setting" on youtube. There is a video by "vikenk" that is very good.
The factory setting for a 99-03 7.3 is 3.5 turns, which works out to about 6PSI being the start point of the bleed.
If you have a Banks Big Head actuator, their published instructions say 6 turns.

The second part is "fine tuning", using an adjustable air supply with attached gauge. I'll again refer you to Youtube for a video by "Kwikkordead", "7.3 waste gate adjustment". As stated earlier, a stock adjustment on a stock controller will start to move the rod around 6PSI.

ErnestEugene gives some additional info in this post:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...ml#post8902064

FWIW: I run 5 turns preload on my Banks Big Head / 38R install.
This puts me in a very happy spot at 15PSI boost.

 

This has to be some kind of joke......

There's no such thing as not having enough fuel to burn "excess air" in these trucks with just a 38R. Impossible to "lose 150hp compressing air" with a 38R. Seriously, these statements show a severe lack of diesel understanding. Folks, I'm sorry but this is incorrect information and needed to be pointed out.

By the way, I see where you posted your mods: "01 Excursion Limited, GTP38R, 4" Down & Exhaust, Programmed, Custom Dayco 1100 RPM TC, Harpoon, ZooDad, 3 way Headlights, F350 rear springs w/ Bags, 30mm Rear Sway Bar, AIH Delete, IH Water Pump, 205° Thermostat, E99 (all metal) IC, 6.0 (31 Row) Trans Cooler, Nippondenso Starter, Odyssey 65-PC1750T Batteries"

So you claim you hit over 40psi with a 38R...... ON STOCK INJECTORS!!!

You also claim this: "I still get 24-25MPG unloaded"

I'm smelling something fishy here. First off, stock injectors will NOT push a 38R over 40psi. Second, no Excursion gets 24-25mpg's... unless you're driving on a piece of glass from the moon to the earth. Years ago there was a guy who got mid 20's and higher consistently out of a 7.3L, but it took extensive drivetrain and aerodynamic modifications to achieve. Now I can see the overhead console telling you that you're getting that mileage, but it's nowhere close to being accurate.

Sorry to burst the bubble. Just too much misinformation here.

 

Man I was scratching my head waiting for the corrections to come.......

24mpg.....so that puts him at 800-1000miles per tank.....riiiiiight.....

 

Fact, I made over 40PSI boost everytime I stood on it.
Somewhere I have pictures I took of the gauge.
That's been 7 or 8 years. But, since you are so important, if I can't find a picture I'll disconnect the actuator tube and do it again.
I'll get right on that...

Fact, when boost went through the roof, acceleration died. I hadn't experienced this problem until I put in the 38R and got stupid-high boost. So, I lowered the boost.

Fact, when I lowered boost levels, truck ran a LOT better.

And it may be that you are just not as smart as you think you are.
About a year after dialed my boost down, I came across a post by ErnestEugene where he worked out that a stock 7.3 can only burn about 12PSI worth boost. He actually worked it out in CFM first, then converted that to an approximate boost level.
His next statement was that anything past that was wasting crankshaft energy due to compression losses. And he gave a HP loss for for each PSI of boost over what could be burnt
I'll wager a month's paycheck that ErnestEugene has more brains in his left pinky-toe than you have between your ears.





You're welcome to think what you want. But if you are going to "point out" something for all us little people, you need to be able to back up your superior knowledge with some facts.
Just because "you said so" doesn't carry much weight.



It's possible I do not have stock sticks. I bought the truck with 90K miles, and already heavily modified. I pulled off the junk I didn't like, and left the rest. I've never had to pull the valve covers, but I did verify that the tune is a split-shot program (I was hoping for single shot ACs).
Given the X doesn't drive much differently than my previous 7.3s, I (still) assume they are stock ADs.


And?
What makes you all-knowing god?
I have most every fuel slip dating back to when I originally purchased the truck.
Every one has the odometer mileage and the number of gallons.
It's a simple thing to divide the two.
Not only that, I had two 7.3 duallys that would get 25MPG.
And a '90 Dodge Cummins that would break 30...


The overhead wish-o-meter is actually not far off. It was likely corrected when the truck was programmed. However, it might be 3MPG low one tank, and 4MPG high the next.
So, not very consistent to say the least.

You're not bursting my bubble.
You are not here, you've never seen my truck, you know nothing.
All you have is your opinion - and everyone has one of those.
"Opinions", I mean.

 

If I do any driving in town, 800-850. If I stay on the highway, usually between 900-950 on a 42 - 43 gallon fillup.
"Fillup" is dependent on how far I go after the walk-light comes on. I know the tank will hold 45.5gal, if I pack it in.
I just try not to push it.

Back in 2009-2010, I would get as much as 1200 miles on a tank when I was driving cross-country.

Around the same time, I saw a post somewhere where a guy was claiming 33MPG in his X. He got a lot of comments like this for his trouble.
Thing is, since I was doing close to the same thing at the time, I didn't automatically assume he was lying.

I fault the quality of diesel for the loss in economy. However, that was also around the time Ford stole my good CPS on the recall.

 

Would like to see facts not words.

Pics or it didn't happen.

 

with a 40psi continuous fart, I too can go 1200 miles per tank.