First Drive w/new Headers

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Jun 18, 2009 | 10:24 PM

ToolTime

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From: Las Vegas

First Drive w/new Headers

Ok, so I bit the bullet and purchased headers for my 5.4. After removing two broken studs on the pass side, and lowering the front driveshaft on the drivers side, and both fender wells all was well...
I didnt quite know what to expect, but at first I wasnt impressed at all. Just driving around my neighborhood I could not feel anything new at all, no big torque increase, nothin!
However, we decided to take a day trip on the freeway and then some really fun off road stuff. Now, on the highway from 45mph and above, I can feel a difference, albeit slight. But at higher freeway speeds I could feel the gas pedal was really light and the truck felt as if it wanted to keep going faster. I have 4.10 gears, and even before the headers this thing just felt heavy and under powered.
In summary, around town under 45mph I dont notice much, but at freeway speeds 65mph and above this thing feels happy!

Jun 21, 2009 | 03:42 AM

Greenscobie86

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Joined: Feb 2005

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From: NYC

Yeah, mine felt exactly the same when I put my BBK's in...

I think I'll do a Lightning swap next, mabe that'll make a bigger differemce haha.

Jun 25, 2009 | 11:32 PM

bnovak

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Joined: Jun 2009

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Hey ToolTime - what headers did you use, and where did you get them from?

I'm thinking I might have a cracked manifold, or at least a manifold leak, so maybe headers instead of the cheap route.

How bad was the install, sans-broken bolts? Did you find a write-up somewhere? I'm still trying to figure out how to get the front fenders off!

thanks.
-BN

Jun 26, 2009 | 12:42 AM

alloro

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From: 0,0,1

You don't need to take the fender off to replace the manifold. You only have to remove the splash shield in the tire well.

Jun 26, 2009 | 12:48 AM

alloro

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I got a set of shorty steel headers from Summit Racing for $150 plus about $10 shipping. The package included the pair of headers, all of the necessary bolts and nuts, and the pair of gaskets too. Don't set your heart on saving the old manifolds because it's not always possible. In my case I have to cut them in sections in order to get access to the rusted on nuts and studs for removal. Once everything was out, the shortys did bolt right up to the engine and existing exhaust system. The driver's side was a real bear to get in there because of the steering shaft, so I ended up working it up from the bottom. I also had to get a new EGR tube, the EGR tube to manifold adapter, and an oil dipstick tube. These had to come off to be able to install the headers and didn't fair to well. The passenger side was a piece of cake to install.

Jun 26, 2009 | 10:18 AM

ToolTime

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Joined: Jun 2003

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From: Las Vegas

Hey guys, I also purchased the Summit racing bolt on headers. Same price with all the required parts for the install. As for the dipstick tube and egr tube,I was able to re-use both of the original units. You just need a little luck and more luck in removing these two parts. Like Alloro said, the driver side was a real Bummer. I lowered my front driveshaft in order to gain proper access. The pass. side was a bit easier.
You will need a ton of patience, and a large variety of hand tools, such as stubby wrenches, gear wrenches, and wobble sockets ect...
One thing for all on here which has not been discussed is; After the first initial start up and test drive or a day or so later, I went back and re-torqued all bolts...Then and only then did I re-install the inner fender walls.
Let me know what you guys think of the performance gains!
Lastly, the headers are cheaper than the
OEM manifold and parts.