Replacing spark plugs on a 98 Expedition 5.4L
#16
02-23-2003, 09:11 AM
Replacing spark plugs on a 98 Expedition 5.4L
One last comment on changing plugs. If you're going to go through the hassle, make sure you have the right plugs! I, unwittingly assumed that one plug was as good as the next; Wrong! I installed Autolite plugs and realized an immeadiate 8% DECREASE in fuel economy. So, I quess I'll be doing the job over again soon---before I go broke.
MK
MK
#17
04-12-2003, 08:37 PM
Replacing spark plugs on a 98 Expedition 5.4L
All is well in the world eccept plug 3 and 7. My number 3 is seized up and i have already broken one ratchet (the cheap one). 7 just sucks. Does anyone have any tips on my number 3. Should i just put a whoop on it or what. I dont want to damage the head.
#18
04-16-2003, 05:28 AM
#19
04-16-2003, 08:06 AM
Replacing spark plugs on a 98 Expedition 5.4L
im sure the temp had somthing to do with it. yesterday evening it was about 80 or 85 degrees out. even though the truck did not run all day long number 3 was not coming out. all the others took a little umph to break loose also. i tried it around 8 in the morning when the temp was about 65 degrees and it was nothing. i could have done it with one hand. to all people about to delve into this project. temperature is the key.
#20
04-16-2003, 08:45 AM
#21
04-19-2004, 12:38 PM
Additional Frustration Saver
I just changed mine (several hours)and found a frustration saver. The two rear plugs on the passenger side have two large hoses that are in the way. Tie them back up and to the left using some cable ties to another electrical cable (hose?). Also unhook the PCV valve and move those hoses out of the way also. Now you will have a lot more clearance to get at those two plugs.
Originally Posted by mk6653
I have just finished installing plugs on my 5.4L Exped. and thought that I would pass along some tips for those uninitiated. Yes I know; the task appears to be imposible. It's not. The right tools and lots of patients and care are a must.
I recommend starting with plug #1 (on the front right hand side of the engine) and working toward the #4 plug. Numbers one and two are pretty straight forword. You'll need a 7mm swivel socket with several different lengths of extentions including a 14" (all 1/4" drive of course). A good 5/8ths plug socket that incorporates a swivel and several 3/8ths drive extentions. And finally, a tilt-head 3/8ths ratchet.
Remove the 7mm screw that secures the coil, then twist and bend to remove the coil. There is no need to remove the fuel rails as some have suggested, but feel free to remove any hoses/covers/conections that will make things easier. The electrical conectors for the coils have a release tab below them; remove the conectors for the injectors as well (don't be afraid to slightly twist injectors out of the way).
Numbers 3 & 4 are tough. I used some small rope to pull various hoses out of the way and layed across the top of the engine to access the small work space I managed to clear. The swivel socket w/6" extention and the tiltable rachet did the job. Be carefull! Do not drop anything! Use duct tape to secure any loose extentions that might disconnect on you. Disconecting the #4 coil wire was impossible for me without removing the coil first. Use anti-seize and dielectric grease on the plugs and coil boots. I did the job over several days and hit what seemed to be many dead-ends. But after having done this, I could probably do it again in an hour.
Good Luck,
mk
I recommend starting with plug #1 (on the front right hand side of the engine) and working toward the #4 plug. Numbers one and two are pretty straight forword. You'll need a 7mm swivel socket with several different lengths of extentions including a 14" (all 1/4" drive of course). A good 5/8ths plug socket that incorporates a swivel and several 3/8ths drive extentions. And finally, a tilt-head 3/8ths ratchet.
Remove the 7mm screw that secures the coil, then twist and bend to remove the coil. There is no need to remove the fuel rails as some have suggested, but feel free to remove any hoses/covers/conections that will make things easier. The electrical conectors for the coils have a release tab below them; remove the conectors for the injectors as well (don't be afraid to slightly twist injectors out of the way).
Numbers 3 & 4 are tough. I used some small rope to pull various hoses out of the way and layed across the top of the engine to access the small work space I managed to clear. The swivel socket w/6" extention and the tiltable rachet did the job. Be carefull! Do not drop anything! Use duct tape to secure any loose extentions that might disconnect on you. Disconecting the #4 coil wire was impossible for me without removing the coil first. Use anti-seize and dielectric grease on the plugs and coil boots. I did the job over several days and hit what seemed to be many dead-ends. But after having done this, I could probably do it again in an hour.
Good Luck,
mk
#22
04-19-2004, 10:21 PM
#24
05-02-2004, 10:41 AM
Originally Posted by Fordtech1
It's a real good idea to use shop air to blow out the plug cavity before plug removal to keep dirt and debris out of the pocket and the plug threads which could lead to plug ejection.
I am looking at a 2000 Navigator with only 15K miles. I decided to jump in the forums and do some reading to see how they holding up. The stories about plugs blowing out are a bit concerning to say the least. What model years was this a problem? And why are many extended warranties not covering this?
Thanks!
Terry
#25
08-03-2010, 11:12 AM
source for coils?
Does any one have a good source for coils? unless I am reading this stuff incorrectly most I've found are in the $50 range, is that each? ($400 in parts?) I know that this was been covered in other post, but what is the recommended torque on the plugs?
Thanks for all the info!
Thanks for all the info!
#26
01-22-2011, 06:54 PM
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help please
hi, on my last plug it broke and left the lower section of porcelain and groung shield. I thought someone had used a 3/8 course thread rod along with tap and had good luck I was hoping someone could point that post to me it's getting late and I have the rod and tap etc. need car 
#27
04-13-2011, 12:51 AM
I just replaced the plugs and ignition coils in my 2004 Expy with 116,000 miles. I bought Motorcraft plugs for $3.50 a pc from local autoparts store. The coils I found online for $85.
IGNITION COIL FORD LINCOLN MERCURY DG508 SET OF 8 | eBay
IGNITION COIL FORD LINCOLN MERCURY DG508 SET OF 8 | eBay
#29
08-20-2011, 06:41 PM
Tackled this task today. It took just short of three hours. It would have taken less time but I did not have a swivel 7mm socket but a socket and universal. Because of my not heeding the advise to have one I could not get the hold down bolt for the #7 coil off. I had to remove the fuel rail bolts on that side and swing the rail to the side to finish the job. It came back together nicely and now the job is done...Thanks to all for the wonderful tips and tidbits.
#30
09-06-2011, 11:29 AM
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