Hey all,

After checking the part number with ford, I offered 70 bucks on a fuel heater element through e-bay (Ford 6.9 7.3 IDI Diesel Fuel Filter Heater Element WVO - eBay (item 180635233586 end time Apr-03-11 18:22:51 PDT)) and won it, and shipping was free! After I received it I tore into the project and discovered that both my existing fuel heater element, and the replacement, were completely different from the one pictured in this thread. My filter head is identical to the one pictured, so I can only sumise that mine was either replaced once before or it is different in my 93. Either way, here is how mine went.

Drop the filter from the head, then disconnect all hoses and wires. Pull the two bolts holding the head on the bracket, and flip the head over and rebolt it loosly, this serves perfectly to hold the head for the next step. Using either a 1 and 1/4 inch wrench or deep socket remove the filter neck. (regular thread) Mine was extremely tight, so make sure that you have the proper tools. (I would have never got mine off with channel locks or a crescent wrench) Once its out, simply push firmly on the electrical connection on the heater element to remove it. Put the new element in place and re-install the filter neck. I tightened mine quite firmly with no problems. Flip the head back over, bolt it down and replace the filter. (if you spilled fuel from the filter, top it off before you put it back on for easier starting) Re-assemble hoses and wires and you are good to go! With the proper tools and a little diesel fuel, this whole project can easily be done in about 30 minutes.

I hope this helps out.

here are a few pics of my old element.

Snapfish: Share Photo:Registration

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What size Viton O-ring should I buy before preforming this procedure?

 

avalible at mc master carr
McMaster-Carr

ford # 7.3 Fuel heater o-ring E8TZ-9K342-A


The closest match I could find was an As 568 114 o-ring (dimensions: 5/8 inches ID x 13/16 inches OD x 3/32 inches width).

 

I just wanted to chime in with my experience. I would have had my Oring project done if I had not snapped the plastic piece on top of the #1 injector! So not I have to buy (and I'm waiting for) a whole fuel injector install kit for just one piece.
I do want to mention that the inner O ring and the outer O ring are not the same size. I was able to find the inner one at my local Napa. The outer O ring came from an Oring kit from my local autozone. I used one with the following size as suggested in other posts: 5/8 ID, 13/16 OD, 3/32 width.
My only concern is that when I re-assembled the unit, it was a tight fit. even though i tightened the large brass nut where the filter screws on to, the protruding electrical connector is cocked a little. I'm hoping I tightened it enough to keep it from leaking. I'll let ya'll know when my injector install kit arrives in 3 days and I can get back on the road.
thanks

 

Well, mine lasted a week as well and is leaking; worse than before. I recall reading that someone tapped the hole and screwed in a plug. Does anyone recall where and who that was? I want to do the same. I'm in Nor Cal and don't need a fuel heater.
thanks

 

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Great write-up!
I've now completely disassembled and reassembled with a new o-ring (by the way it's a #16 Viton) and it still leaks. While looking for a replacement heater, I exact one I need for my 1989 7.3 IDI @ UHAUL truck parts for $105.00, however, I also found a new one for a 1994 7.3 IDI for $42.00 on EBAY. Question, will the 1994 heater work in my 1989 filter housing???

 

you would probably be better off to just seal up the factory heater element hole with JB weld and use one of these:
Titan Filter Heater 12 or 24 volts, suitable for diesel, bio-fuel, lube oil, hydraulic filters as well as hydraulic pumps and ram cylinders.

 

Thanks for the advice, however I'd prefer to maintain the factory system. Do you know if these are interchangable?

 

I have a 1991 F250 7.3 IDI and used a size 014 o-ring (1/16" cross section 1/2" x 5/8") for the inner seal and a size 018 o-ring (1/16" cross section 3/4" x 5/8") for the outer seal. I found them at a local Parker hydraulic hose store. They sealed up the leak perfectly and they had the proper amount of resistance during assembly. I originally tried a size 114 o-ring and found it was too thick and required exessive force for assembly. I now have over 1000 miles on this fuel heater o-ring job and its still working great.

 

Mine only had one o-ring and I tried several sizes and was unable to stop the leak. I ended up buying a new heater (bought from uhaul truck parts $115.00). It fit perfectly with no leaks.
FYI, the newer style heater does not fit.

 

I can't seem to be able to get the electrical connector off the heater core. Is there a technique to get it off. I don't want to break anything.

 

I found that the rubber cover for the fuel heater electrical connector was hard as a rock from heat or being soaked in diesel fuel for so long. The only way I could remove it was by forcefully prying it away from the fuel heater with a screwdriver. This technique distorted and damaged the bottom of the rubber cover. After I fixed the leak and reinstalled the connector it fit very loose and was too easy to remove, but after a few hundred miles the heat of the engine softened up the rubber again and it re-formed arount the fuel heater again and now if I tug on it it will not come off - it's kind of stuck on there again if you get the picture.

If I had to do it all over again I would soften up the rubber cover with a heat gun before removing it, and then it could probably be pulled off by hand without any damage.

 

Man, this saved my life. Great suggestion as it was very hard to come off. Thanks!

 

Im curious, what is the purpose of the fuel heater? I dont think ive ever hooked mine up since the swap. Is it to keep fuel from gelling in the filter?