I live in Texas so I tapped the hole with 1/2 NPT and put a $2 brass plug with grey RTV. It has been holding for a week.

I had the tap from a previous project 20 years ago. A new o-ring would have been cheaper without the tap and likely would have lasted another 20 years.

Now to find which injector line is leaking.

 

I found this exploded diagram, page 8 and 9. Also pretty helpful

https://www.servicechamp.com/images/...20tutorial.pdf

 

This is what I just did today. A few years ago mine was leaking and I replaced the O-ring. Seemed to be fixed, then after the last time I changed the fuel filter it started leaking again.......this time I just plugged it with a 1/2" pipe plug.

It usually gets pretty cold up here in the winter (high around 0*F) so we will see how it does. From what others have posted it should be fine....hope they are right.

 

Had mine 1/2in pipe plugged for at least two seasons. Western WA so it doesn't get too cold, just down to the teens.
However I've also had her parked up at the ski resort with no gelling issues. Modern fuel works just fine since they blend it in the winter.

 

#2 should (or use to) have a cloud point no greater the 20 and #1 is not greater than -40. The stations usually blend the 2 for the lowest expected temp. I lived and Anchorage AK and had to listen to the guys complain about the lousy mileage they would get on winter diesel. The cloud point is lowered be removing paraffin's which have a lot of energy.

 

I have a 95 and a 96 f350 7.3 and I really don't want to remove the fuel bowl if I don't have to, but, for some reason the fuel heater is always on. I can go out in the morning and before I even get in it the fuel bowl is warm. Is there some way to unplug the heater from up top without removing the fuel bowl and what would cause this issue? I live in the south and we hardly ever get snow down here. Please help.

 

You have Power Strokes. Don't know if the filter and fuel heater is the same as our IDI's.
Need a Moderator to move this to the Power Stroke forum.

 

Does anyone know the sizes of these O-Rings?

 

Don't know the size. Got mine from the local IH service center. They had to order them.

 

I just did mine, I though about just threading the hole with pipe thread and epoxying in a pipe plug, but I just changed the o rings and reinstalled it .. also when I had mine apart, it is one that is not equipped with check valve there is no seat in the hole for ball to seal on. some were made with out it, it seems...???

 

Here ya go....

 

Thank you guys for making this so simple, it was a big help! Mine has been leaking slowly for awhile, and I replaced it today as my truck was running rough and surging. This seems to have been the culprit. Thank you Macgyver, I referred to your video a few times during the process; it was also a big help!

I'd like to add a few things for anyone doing this for the first time

It seems that the bricknose have the 2 O-ring design, and the OBS have the new one O-ring design (correct me if I'm wrong).

On the 2 ringer, there is a small washer underneath the 2nd/lower O-ring; the one on the element itself. Don't wave the element around with the O-ring off and you are good.

I saw a youtube video where one guy said to be careful putting the halves (2 ringer) back together as the plastic divider needs to be on the right side of the hole in the base for fuel flow. There is no need to worry, the plastic is "tapered"; it only goes one way; you'll see what I mean when you take it apart.

The contacts in the base where the element grounds to were coming out in chunks on my 2 ringer, so I had to buy a new one as they would have completely deteriorated. The P/N for the new/current IDI fuel heater is F2TZ-9J294-A. This piece has only one O-ring, and will fit in place of the old 2 O-ring design. There is instructions with the new heater, and on the paper it says 1816602C91 "heater assembly". I assume that is International's PN, even though I called and they didn't know what I was talking about.

Macgyver, the filter adaptor was so tough to loosen because there was a form of loctite or sealant on it from the factory. Mine was the same way, and the sealant left red chunks in the housing when I had it upside-down to remove. On the instructions, it states to "Apply Loctite 271 or equivalent to the threads of the threaded insert, and install into header. Tighten to 40-50 ft. lbs torque." I don't know why there was thread sealant, as I didn't put any on when installing. I did however tighten it a little more than the recommended amount just to be safe; I had to use a 3/4 drive ratchet as I didn't have that socket in 1/2 inch drive. I don't think it will be going anywhere...

Thanks again to you guys, this was an easy job because of this thread!

 

Registered just to say thanks to everyone that contributed to this thread. I went with the brass pipe thread suggestion and have two tips.
Don't snug the mounting bolts until after hooking up the fuel lines.
Use thread tape rather than pipe dope / thread compound on the brass plug threads.
Thanks again for the helpful thread.
Total repair time, including putting away tools was an hour 45 minutes.

 

If you live in a warmer climate this is a fix that will save you some money and future head aches. I live in Redding Ca where the winter temp rarely goes below 17 deg F. Drain fuel from filter. Remove all hoses and connections. Remove housing from bracket. Remove heater from housing. No need to drill hole larger, just use a 1/2 inch tap and cut the threads into the hole in the housing. Put teflon tape on the threads and screw in the 1/2 inch pipe plug. Works great and cost is minimal. $20.00 for the plug and tap and no future leaks from the fuel heater because it doesn't exist!

 

This is a fix in colder climates as well. I live in northern Indiana and see sub zero temps regularly in the winter. I have had my heater replaced with a plug for the last 4 years with no issues. There is a lot of debate about whetherthe fuel heater actually helps at all due to its poor design. The general consciences seems to be no.