Greasing your main wheel hub bearings. Pics here
#61
01-30-2010, 08:45 AM
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#62
01-30-2010, 09:18 AM
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I think you are refering to the vaccum port for the auto hub. You would need to pull the sensor to get to the bearing cavity.
#65
02-03-2011, 09:35 PM
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Depends on what you want to do.
There are two different bearings in this hub assembly, and each does different things.
The first is the main wheel bearings, which are not normally greaseable. Those are the ones that we shoot grease at through the ABS sensor hole. The hub does not have to be removed to do that, just the brake caliper. I do these every year because the weight of the truck sits on these bearings.
The second are the needle bearings. They are what supports the "stub axle" which is the drive axle from the U-joint outwards into the hub lock assembly. To lube those the entire assembly has to come off the truck. Study this to get an idea of what's involved:
Welcome to guzzle's 4x4 Needle Bearing Maintenance Web Page
These get greased every 60,000 miles. Only the inner part of the stub axle is supported by these.
There is yet another bearing in these assemblies, and it's located in the hub locking mechanism, and occasionally needs re-packing, too. Here's how to do that one:
Welcome to guzzle's 4x4 Autolock Hub Lubrication Maintenance Web Page
It supports the outer part of the stub axle.
Pop
There are two different bearings in this hub assembly, and each does different things.
The first is the main wheel bearings, which are not normally greaseable. Those are the ones that we shoot grease at through the ABS sensor hole. The hub does not have to be removed to do that, just the brake caliper. I do these every year because the weight of the truck sits on these bearings.
The second are the needle bearings. They are what supports the "stub axle" which is the drive axle from the U-joint outwards into the hub lock assembly. To lube those the entire assembly has to come off the truck. Study this to get an idea of what's involved:
Welcome to guzzle's 4x4 Needle Bearing Maintenance Web Page
These get greased every 60,000 miles. Only the inner part of the stub axle is supported by these.
There is yet another bearing in these assemblies, and it's located in the hub locking mechanism, and occasionally needs re-packing, too. Here's how to do that one:
Welcome to guzzle's 4x4 Autolock Hub Lubrication Maintenance Web Page
It supports the outer part of the stub axle.
Pop
#66
02-03-2011, 09:52 PM
#67
02-03-2011, 10:07 PM
Ford doesn't want you to do it but they have been doing it for many years. Are you supposed to buy a new hub when the grease runs dry? I will try to upload some pics from Pbucket.
The trick is to use the ABS sensor hole and it won't affect your sensor or give you a bad light.
If your outer hub is already cleaned and greased you can use a rag and a sandwich bag to cover
Plug the 3/8" hole so you don't contaminate the bearing. Clean the rust real well on the right of this picture. so you can re-use you old seals. Grease there also.
I used a funnel I had and a piece of tubing but you can use a smaller funnel by itself.
I used a whole mini tube of grease in the hub so you know it was dry.
It's important that you scrape and clean all the surfaces where the seals ride and add grease here too. That way you can re-use your old seals. If they are in good shape you won't need new ones. ( I know someone will chime in here but it's true) Clean the rust on the ride side of this picture real well and add grease here later also.
When you pack the needle bearings; cram a rag into the hole just below the bearing and use the can of pressurized brake parts cleaner on it them. Push grease into the bearing with your thumb until it won't take any more.
The trick is to use the ABS sensor hole and it won't affect your sensor or give you a bad light.
If your outer hub is already cleaned and greased you can use a rag and a sandwich bag to cover
Plug the 3/8" hole so you don't contaminate the bearing. Clean the rust real well on the right of this picture. so you can re-use you old seals. Grease there also.
I used a funnel I had and a piece of tubing but you can use a smaller funnel by itself.
I used a whole mini tube of grease in the hub so you know it was dry.
It's important that you scrape and clean all the surfaces where the seals ride and add grease here too. That way you can re-use your old seals. If they are in good shape you won't need new ones. ( I know someone will chime in here but it's true) Clean the rust on the ride side of this picture real well and add grease here later also.
When you pack the needle bearings; cram a rag into the hole just below the bearing and use the can of pressurized brake parts cleaner on it them. Push grease into the bearing with your thumb until it won't take any more.
#68
02-04-2011, 12:00 AM
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#69
05-29-2011, 06:57 AM
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DONE
I did mine over the weekend.
PB BLASTED ABS sensor let sit for 24 hrs. Came apart with some effort.(twist L+R) pull.
I'm in the rust belt northern ILL.
Turkey baster in the abs sensor hole (fit like a glove) 1 squirt every 1/4 turn total of 4 squirts.
I pulled my hubs and driver needle bearing was starting to get dry.
All lubbed up with fresh brakes, ready to go.
THANKS FTE.
I did mine over the weekend.
PB BLASTED ABS sensor let sit for 24 hrs. Came apart with some effort.(twist L+R) pull.
I'm in the rust belt northern ILL.
Turkey baster in the abs sensor hole (fit like a glove) 1 squirt every 1/4 turn total of 4 squirts.
I pulled my hubs and driver needle bearing was starting to get dry.
All lubbed up with fresh brakes, ready to go.
THANKS FTE.
#70
06-02-2011, 10:54 AM
Do you think this grease would work in the hubs? I have a new set coming today and was going to go ahead and grease them before i even put them on.
http://www.greengrease.net/PDF/GreenGease.pdf
http://www.greengrease.net/PDF/GreenGease.pdf
#71
06-02-2011, 12:31 PM
It looks to be a very-good lubricant, at least from its literature. I don't like the "mixed complex" base type. That's kinda' an unknown, but the specs look good. In one case, a little too-good. The Timkin OK Load Test of 80 pounds seems unrealistically-high, especially when it's compared to other "known-fine" products.
Would I personally use it? I dunno. Probably not in my hub bearings.
Chassis lube? More likely.
If I were you, I'd use something KNOWN to be lithium-complex based, and compatable with the grease originally packed in there, Exxon/Mobil Infinitec 152, which isn't readily-available in smaller quantities.
Like Mobil-1 (red) or Delo Grease (blue).
Always at least NLGI#2, and GC-LB rated.
Pop
Would I personally use it? I dunno. Probably not in my hub bearings.
Chassis lube? More likely.
If I were you, I'd use something KNOWN to be lithium-complex based, and compatable with the grease originally packed in there, Exxon/Mobil Infinitec 152, which isn't readily-available in smaller quantities.
Like Mobil-1 (red) or Delo Grease (blue).
Always at least NLGI#2, and GC-LB rated.
Pop
#73
06-02-2011, 01:59 PM
#74
06-03-2011, 08:09 AM
Thanks SpringerPop.
Finally got the drivers side done. I will get new studs next time for the passenger side. They were a pain in the butt to get out! I could have had the job done in an hour if it werent for swapping the studs.
I dont have 4wabs so i got wheel bearing with the sensor and just cut the cord off at the sensor. Shouldnt be that hard to grease when i have time to get the right grease.
Finally got the drivers side done. I will get new studs next time for the passenger side. They were a pain in the butt to get out! I could have had the job done in an hour if it werent for swapping the studs.
I dont have 4wabs so i got wheel bearing with the sensor and just cut the cord off at the sensor. Shouldnt be that hard to grease when i have time to get the right grease.
