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1983 - 2012 Ranger & B-Series All Ford Ranger and Mazda B-Series models

Hard to start

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Old May 30, 2009 | 01:57 PM
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Hard to start

1997 ford ranger, manuel transmission. Having to pump the clutch many times to get truck started.we have tried bleeding it but still it will not start without pumping the clutch pedal.
 
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Old May 30, 2009 | 02:22 PM
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What brought you to the conclusion that the clutch is dragging when you try to start the engine. You could have a bad clutch interrupt switch.

Is the transmission in gear or in neutral when you try starting? If its is in gear, try starting the engine with the trans. in neutral. If it is in neutral, the clutch interrupt switch becomes even more suspicious. The neutral start switch may also be suspect.

How is the fluid level in the clutch reservoir?

Give more details and we can do a better job of helping you.
 

Last edited by michigan66; May 30, 2009 at 02:22 PM. Reason: Correct a typo.
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Old May 30, 2009 | 05:45 PM
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Agreed on all of the above, just one addition, if you have too, disengage the neutral switch (just pull the plug where it connects to the transmission).

Stan
 
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Old May 30, 2009 | 08:58 PM
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The fluid level was fine in the master cylinder.We also put on another clutch/starter interlock switch and still the truck would not crank.With the old one it was still crank but it required pumping.the clutch pedal.You mentioned the nuetral switch,could this be the problem?I am not familiar with it.Do I need to just unplug the swich or is it something that needs to be replaced.(1997 ranger 5 speed 3.0)Our haynes manuel covers only 93/94 a4ld automatic transmission.
 
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Old May 30, 2009 | 09:44 PM
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Neutral Switch = Clutch/Starter Interlock.
 
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Old May 31, 2009 | 06:21 AM
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I'm new to Rangers/B Series but with my Mazda Miata they are not the same. There is both a clutch switch and a neutral switch.

Clutch switch forces you to push in the clutch pedal to engage starter. I believe the neutral switch is a signal to the computer. I believe it was used to adjust the idle.

Again this may not apply to Rangers.
 
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Old May 31, 2009 | 09:18 AM
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I was mostly referring to how it was being described. But either way, I think there is only one on a Ranger.
 
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Old May 31, 2009 | 02:54 PM
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We tried two different neutral switches but it did not fix the problem, so in order to crank the truck to get it back to the house we jumped the solenoid and whether the switch was on or off it worked. We are back to square one and do not want to continue to jump the solenoid. Could this be the solenoid or the starter??????? Any more ideas would be greatly appreciated, HELP HELP HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
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Old May 31, 2009 | 03:16 PM
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A problem started where the clutch was having to be pumped hard several times to start the engine in my 1997 2wd 3.0 manual transmission ford ranger. We approached the problem by replacing the clutch interlock switch (neutral switch), this was unsuccessful. The only other option we have heard to go with is that we need a new solenoid or starter. We were able to start the clutch by jumping the solenoid without the clutch interlock (neutral switch) being completely removed. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. HELP HELP HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
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Old May 31, 2009 | 08:23 PM
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If you jump/short the solenoid and it starts, then it sounds like the starter is good. You could remove it and have it tested to be sure.

The only items I can think of that might cause it not to start are:
Ignition Switch
safety interlock (replaced already)
Solenoid
Starter

There is also the possibility of wiring problems like corroded or loose connections.

I don't know if helps or not. Maybe it will give you some ideas. If you have a wiring diagram you could verify the path from the ignition switch to the solenoid by measuring voltage at the solenoid.
 
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Old May 31, 2009 | 08:46 PM
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Check your clutch pedal position switch.
 
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Old May 31, 2009 | 08:51 PM
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Check your clutch pedal position switch.
 
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Old May 31, 2009 | 09:11 PM
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My 2001 Ranger Manual shows the Clutch Pedal Position Switch inside the cab on the clutch pedal linkage. I'd try WD-40 and reconnect first. Then try a new switch, or a replacement used switch.
 
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Old Jun 1, 2009 | 07:49 AM
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You may have solved the problem yourself when you said the engine would start when you bypassed the started solenoid. When you turn the ignition key to the start position, can you head the solenoid "click"? If so, replace the solenoid. If not check to see if you have voltage in the small wire that goes from the ignition switch to the solenoid. If so, replace the solenoid. If not, you have a wiring problem somewhere between the ignition switch and the solenoid.
 
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