alright here's the deal, new to this whole thing and i'm trying to help the husband out--i'm not a fan of punctuation\capitalization so overlook that please. and no, i'm not mechanically inclined, just love the husband and HATE to see him this frustrated....anyway, the husband has a 92 bronco (5.0), we just put a 3" body lift on it, new tailgate, and new tires. he was so excited to get the tires on so he could give her a mud bath, only now it's not running right. the truck idles fine, however, when you try to accelerate it starts to spit and sputter--trying to stall...like it's flooding and it's only when you try to accelerate. here's a list of what he has replaced trying to fix this problem, so we can eliminate those, here goes:
distributor cap, new wires, new spark plugs, new rotor button, fuel filter, and etc (electronic temp control)-- all new. double checked the wiring just to be sure...he bought a fuel pump regulator today, hasn't put it on because there's no gas when he pulls the vacuum line (so technically the one in there is working right?) he bought a code reader, but the truck is not showing any codes. we have not checked the fuel pump pressure (truthfully can't afford the gauge he got laid off and i work retail so you know..) any ideas you guys can offer would really be great...he has been reading posts on all kinds of forums trying to rundown this white elephant, with no luck...he's at the end of his rope...i have been trying to read up on this crap in an effort to help him, so i was wondering if it could be an air intake issue, or a vacuum leak in one of the hoses (never hurts to ask right?)

 

First, Welcome! to FTE. You will be amazed at the knowledge and good folks here.

I'm one of the least knowledgeable but check this...Triple check plug wiring. Also, on the 5.0 separate #7 and #8 wires by running #5 and #6 between them to prevent cross firing.

Not showing codes...do you mean the codes are all "111" pass?

So, the problems began after the mud bath? Clean connectors (disconnect, spray, blow dry, die electric grease) starting with oxygen sensor.

Harbor Freight has a cheap fuel pressure guage.

 

first of all..thanks a million...he was really surprised i had joined a forum--now it looks like a kinda know what he's talking about alright, so he already split the wiring to keep it from cross firing...it's not showing "111 pass" codes, it's not showing any codes, and now that i've read up on it, it should be showing something right? and the harbor frieght tip was great...we're going to pick him up one of those...there's a big difference between $50 and $13, so thanks for that!! he just left to go get some cleaner and try to clean the oxygen sensor and all the other connectors...let you know how that goes...

 

Not showing any codes is not good. Next guess... the connector to the computer under hood, drivers side, on firewall, low outside, tall and skinney....did the mud bath get it?

Tons and tons of great info here Ford Fuel Injection

I'm sure someone else will be along shortly who would know why you don't even get 111 code.

 

He should get a code if he connects the reader into the ports under the hood. The reader I have required a 9volt battery but like b4 said clean the connector incase mud got into the wrong places. Look at fordfuelinjection.com to get the "paper-clip" method. I know autoparts stores sell the "paper-clip" now in the help section. What kind of code reader is it? Codes will be more helpful than guessing game of sensors under the hood.

 

Did it ever run right after the lift? Did it run good before the lift? I am trying to figure out if it broke when he went to give her a mud bath or if it never ran right after the lift. If this problem started after you did the lift I would check every thing the lift might change. Mabey a fuel line go kinked when you were moving the body around, or a wiring harness to the transmission got unplugged some how or the VSS in the rear axle got unplugged some how. It would be very strange for a truck that ran fine before the lift would mysteriously have a lot of non lift related problems with stuff you didn't go any where near when you lifted it.
-Johnboy

 

you know come to think of it, all of these problems did start after we finished putting the lift on it...like the day of now that i think about it...we'll double check all of the lines, plugs, and wires tomorrow. he's going to start underneath at one end and i'm going start at the other...we hadn't even thought of that...we keep getting a low voltage code, and the truck acts perfectly fine accelerating in 1st gear...which only requires a lower voltage (right?), would that explain the loss of power we're dealing with too? we messed with so much stuff putting that lift on, we put new bushings on at the same time...so we'll run it first thing in the morning...thanx for the idea....it is one we had totally overlooked...let you know how it goes tomorrow...

 

Did you unhook and grounding straps that went to the frame and mabey they didn't get hooked back up. You really don't need higher voltage to run higher RPMs but it will throw off sensor readings and such. Most sensors work by putting a certain amount of voltage in and seeing what comes out so if the amount going in isn't right no telling what they might read. The new body lift spacers could be insulating the body and keeping the current from flowing to any thing that grounds in the body. Most of the time there will be a grounding strap from the engine to the fire wall, and the main ground that comes off the negative battery terminal. I really think your problem is some how lift related just seems odd that all was well before and now well not so much.
-Johnboy

 

we are missing a ground--the flat braided aluminum ground--that goes to front frame under the radiator...can't find any trace of it, except where it was hooked up...so now what?

 

It needs to be replaced to prevent electrolasis (sp?) corrosion of the radiator. On mine grounds are located if I remember correctly...battery to frame, starter and to fender. Be sure to check the fender stud by complete dissambly to be sure the stud is not loose and turning in the fender. Two small wires there also. With the body lift did you do anything at that fender stud location? What about the negative battery cable clamped to the frame ground?

Strap from passenger firewall to engine. One by the code reading connector. One to radiator support.

 

we have replaced the missing ground and double checked the rest...the truck runs better, but still not right...we have also stumbled on a new problem that might have something to do with it...the lock ring on the gas tank was rusted out...fuel drained from the fuel filter was cloudy (why is that?) that's what prompted us to take a look at the pump and the gas tank...we were thinking that maybe the filter at the bottom of the fuel pump or one of the gas lines was clogged...once the key was turned to on, sometimes the fuel pump would engage and sometimes it wouldn't...it always sounded like it was engaging, but gas would not consistently come out...and it wasn't a steady stream...at best it was a strong trickle...shouldn't the fuel pump (after it's engaged) pump gas? he checked it with his meter and the volts are correct...and do we have the replace the gas tank in order to replace the lock ring? they sell just the ring, but the majority of the teeth that hold it in place are rusted out and missing...

 

Cloudy fuel doesnt sound right. Did you drain the tank and check the fuel inside to see if it was "dirty" as well?

 

we drained the tank, it was clean for the most part (the tank that is) there was some debris in the bottom....probably from the fuel pump bouncing all over the place..there's really no telling what got in there...but the gas that was in the tank was cloudy too...and i can't seem to find anything saying what would cause it...

 

so, you fellas know everything we have changed on the truck...and she's acting much better...this morning she ran fine cold...but when she got good and warmed up it started the spitting and sputtering again...almost as bad as it was to begin with...any ideas on what would cause it to run fine cold but start acting up when it gets warm?

 

So the fuel mixture sounds good cold and possibly too rich warmed up. Many things change after warm up, this only addresses fuel mixture.

Here's my story..I suggest the oxygen sensor(s) first due to mudding. I went the opposite direction.

ECT tells the computer the coolant water temp so it will adjust fuel accordingly. I pulled mine, set it in the oven, beside an oven thermometer. Read resistance at a temp, wrote it down, increased the temp a little and waited, etc in about 10 degree steps to get about eight readings. Even though codes were 111 the ECT was not near the reading on the chart at Ford fuel injection. Replaced it and it ran better.

ACT reads the air temp going in the engine and again affects computer's fuel mixture. Did same test, also quite a bit off from the chart, replaced it, ran a little better.

In both cases the readings were off. A little off at cold, near correct at around 170 degrees, then off in opposite directions at 195 degrees.

The transistors were tired.

Oxygen sensor may have also been the original at 170K. Replaced it and it ran A LOT BETTER. Suggestions are for replacement at 60-90 K miles. Be sure to test the connector if yours is a heated oxygen sensor for power to heat it. See Haynes. Test the connector readings then clean and dielectric grease before replacement.

I bought Motorcraft parts. Even after cleaning the tank, run Heet in the gas for moisture control. My "Big Red" has room in the grage now after 1 1/2 years in the driveway so tank condensation should be less now.

Edit,,,I just read your other thread again. Missing oxygen sensor still? If I remember correctly, the computer does not consult the oxygen sensor until warm up. This could be the issue causing running bad after warmup. Thoughts?