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Old May 4, 2009 | 10:40 AM
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intake tourque

im putting a new intake on my 390. anybody know a website where i can find the tourque and the torquing sequence for an intake? the cam retainer bolts would be very helpful also.

thanks in advance.
 
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Old May 5, 2009 | 07:51 AM
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That's a tough one, anyone have that information quick? I could do it, but don't have the books near me right now.
 
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Old May 5, 2009 | 09:56 AM
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We just rebuilt ours and it was 35-45ft-lbs, or just go by a good judgement.
 
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Old May 5, 2009 | 10:34 AM
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According to the following site, it's 32~35 ft-lbs. For sequence, just work from the middle out.. alternating sides. I'd torque in 3 increments or so.

Classic Truck - Classic Truck Shop
 
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Old May 5, 2009 | 12:28 PM
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thanks guys
 
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Old May 5, 2009 | 01:25 PM
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Oh, and by "new" - what do you mean?

A new Edel? Not using the stock bolts, are you?
 
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Old May 5, 2009 | 08:42 PM
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brand spanking new perf rpm and new arp bolts
 
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Old May 6, 2009 | 08:10 AM
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Consider LESS torque with aluminum manifold. No experience with the FE, but on the small block, factory torque of 25 ft-lbs seems like too much... 15-20 ft-lbs with aluminum edle is more like it.
 
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Old May 6, 2009 | 08:36 AM
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More than once

As others stated, about 20-25 foot-pounds and work from the center out and criss cross sides in a manner than you can sort of remember because you need to go around at least two or three times on the final torque to be sure that no additional tightening occurs. The most common mistake that most people make when using a torque wrench, especially on an intake manifold, is that they just go around once and quit. Everytime you tighten a bolt the gasket squishes down some and the surrounding bolts get looser. Keep going around and around at the final torque until the bolts do not tighten any further. It may take 3 or 4 times, but the gasket will be far less likely to leak if properly torqued.
 
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Old May 6, 2009 | 12:24 PM
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Doesn't Edelbrock have a torque recommendation for their own manifold?
 
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Old May 6, 2009 | 10:17 PM
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they probably do, guess i should give them a call and ask. not that i dont believe anybody, id rather hear it from thier mouth cuz its thier product.
 
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Old May 7, 2009 | 09:42 AM
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Edlebrock's recommendation

Look here for installation instructions.

http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive_.../7000/7105.pdf
 
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Old May 7, 2009 | 12:24 PM
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Originally Posted by DavidB
Look here for installation instructions.

http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive_.../7000/7105.pdf
Repped you for that
 
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Old May 12, 2009 | 11:12 PM
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All this info comes with my new Edle-manifold, odd you didn't get it with yours..Any ways 25lbs put a little sealer under the washer so the bolts don't leak. And as your our getting the manifold line up don't forget to drop in the distributor to make sure it's in
alignment. Plus some times you have to remove the steel alignment pin in the top of the block for the old iron manifold.. Some aftermarket manifolds don't use this pin and our not drilled for it. and may end up cracking the manifold if not removed..Edlebrock says to only use rtv sealer and no end gaskets..my 2 cents
orich
 
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Old May 13, 2009 | 06:09 PM
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Maybe this is the right place to ask instead of making a new thread. I have an edlebrock preformer 390 intake and am having trouble keeping the front and rear intake gaskets to seal. I have torqued this intake to the recommended torque of 25 ft lbs and instead of stock cork gaskets I have used silicone to seal it twice already and it still blows the silicone out all the time no matter how much I have put on it. Any special technique or different gasket anybody would recommend for this problem?
 
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