Bring my truck to my mechanic to locate the oil leak. He says the oil pan is rottting out and the leak will get worse over time. He tells me 1000 bucks parts and labor to fix it. The look on my face must have told the story, because he defended the price saying the dealer would charge me 2500. He says about 12-15 hours labor and about 300 in parts. He says he replaced the oil pans on about 15 trucks in the last two years and it's a common problem. Does this sound right in labor and parts, and is there an aftermarket pan that will not rust out? This just killed my modding future....

 

In order to replace the pan the engine has to come out. Sorry for the bad news.

 

Get a quote from a dealer and see. Just to compare apples and guarantees on a job well done. If he is a good mechanic then the 1k don't sound to bad. I heard folks do it without pulling the motor. But most say they do have to pull motor. If you don't have to i would like pictures on how it was done. I have seen pictures of Cross members cut and re welded. Or Rivets cut on the cross member and once reinstalled they used good grade bolts.. Either way I feel for you. Just tossing some info at yea.

It is VERY common.. I lost a pan on my F150. Didn't have to pull motor but I did have to lift motor quite a bit and the pan still barely came out. And i would have been happier with the motor upside down to reinstall the pan. It was a oil MESS and i crossed my fingers hoping it wouldn't leak..

 

Before you go spending a bunch of money go under there with a ratchet and try tightening them.
See these videos.... (Video 2 applies to your situation)
POWERSTROKEHELP.COM - The Information Source for Ford Power Stroke Diesel Owners

Also I would recommend having your O ring replaced on your dipstick if you have to pull the motor and have the oil pan seal replaced, just to be safe as this thing is a, well, I'll be nice

 

If it's not too bad, I have heard of some patching it with some marine grade fiberglass if you can get it good and clean, then treat the rest with POR 15 and it should be ok. The mechanic isn't steering you wrong as far as the motor coming out. Others have done it with the motor in, but most mechanics aren't going to subject themselves to the lawsuit involved if they cut the cross member and then re-attach it. So from his perspective, he is correct. If it is a bad enough problem, and if you already have a leak, it's very possible it is, you have no choice but to replace it really, and these pans bubbling out is a very common problem. How long have you had the truck.

 

It's a 2002 that I've had for a little over three years 80000 miles

 

Jason mentioned POR 15 as a way to maybe save the pan. That would also be a good preventative measure on the new pan. It will never rust. POR 15 LINK

 

Over four years ago I had a rotted out oil pan, leaking oil from a pinhole on the bottom of the pan.
I never pulled the engine or replaced the pan.
I fixed it in one hour using a fuel tank repair kit from NAPA part number 765-1546.
I actually used two, one on top of the other so it would be a nice thick patch.
After that I sanded, POR-15 painted the pan and it hasn't leaked a drop since.

Fuel Tank Leak Sealer, Fast Repair For Fuel Tanks, Radiators, Crankcases & Transmission Covers

 

Good info Dan. Tried to rep you but no go.

 

I just climbed under the truck with a flashlight and a rag, and started to wipe everything down. I tightened all the bolts I could reach on the pan most of them were loose and required a quarter to a half turn. One leak appears to be comming from the dipstick tube. What size oring is that, and is it difficult to change out. The other leak appears to be comming from the top of the motor and working its way down. There is a little bit of oil on the passengerside of the valley. Where is the turbo pedistal o ring and should I take the spider off to get a better look.

 

There are 2 orings between the pedestal and the block and 2 more between the pedestal and turbo.

Removing the spider would give you a much better look but try a flashlight and mirror.

I had a leak at the dip stick flange but it was the o-ring for the dip stick where it enters the flange and not the flange o-ring in the pan, to my great relief.

Edit : Dipstick Tube O-ring replace:
The top on the tube is secured to the block. Remove the bolt to pull out the tube. I removed the starter for more room and was able to pull out the tube from under the truck. Whether or not you want to remove the starter is up to you, but it does give you much more room to ensure the tube goes back in correctly. Lubricate the O-ring and slide on tube. Push tube firmly back into flange and re-install bolt at top.





If the leak is between the flange and the pan try tightening the large nut on the flange but go real easy as not to strip the flange threads. I would not go more than 3/4 turn depending on how loose it is. I used a large pair of channel locks. Also if you over tighten this nut you can deform the o-ring in the pan. Thanks to Dan (Kwikkordead) for this advise on tightening the nut.

Here is the LINK for dipstick flange leak repair. Great write-up by Andy - Fat Diesel. I have found some other fixes that seem easier and will post them when I find them.