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I've been working on replacing missing, broken and worn brake parts for the last couple of weeks. I thought I would be done with all this with adding the three new e-brake cables this weekend, no such luck. After spending 7 hours on my back under the damned ol' thing I finally got all of the cables attached where they needed to be... beer in hand, i pulled up on the hand pull and the catch do-hicky didn't contact the sprocket...
So i finished my beer, then another one, and stormed out of the garage.
Anyone know if there is a way to adjust the location of the sprocket so that it will contact the catch?
The brakes need to be adjusted correctly, then the cables need to be adjusted. It sounds like yours are a dash too tight.
Here is the link with the cable adjustment and hand lever adjustment procedure (as Bob quoted above). The full procedure (as described on page 249 of the Shop Manual) and pics are listed in post #6.
sounds like i might have more issues then since the central pivot things arms are not moving freely. i'll need to hit them with some pb blaster and see if i can break them loose.
Once i have the brake shoes adjusted properly should that allow the cables some slack?
hmmm to be more technical... the clevis and pin are rusted up to the point where a ballpin hammer is required to adjust their angle. I still think the replacement hand brake cable is 1 inch too short though.
actually yes to both Julie! the rears have new star adjusters, cylinder, shoes, and drums; as well as the new cables. I'll have to call me neighbor at lunch today and have him bring me home a bit of acetone from his work, they have all that stuff just laying around.
I just rebuilt my bellcrank and the clevises. The pins were rusted up solid in the clevises, tighter than anything I've encountered anywhere on the truck. I tried heat, penetrating oil, BFH, you name it. Heat eventually did it, and I even managed to do it without setting my bed boards on fire.
So once I got the pins out and replaced, I realized the whole bellcrank is supposed to be able to pivot on the bolt that comes down from the top. I got everything thoroughly soaked with penetrating oil, and hammered it back and forth to work it in, voila! Now it's smooth as butter. I re-tapped all the clevises and ran a die up and down the cable ends, what a difference!
The bellcrank isn't repro'd and warrants some oiling on a regular basis.
Yep, that equalizer bracket is a ROYAL PAIN! It really pays to get that adjusted while the bed is off the truck. When you have both bolts loose the bracket is anchored and pivots on the center one, and the other bolt is what the bracket slides on - the bracket has a hemispherical slot cut in it. Once in the right position they are both tightened up again. It's hard to describe but it's kind of like the adjustment on the slide of a generator tension bracket.
If the shoes were worn or the cable was stretched out, that slack would have been adjusted out - a little more each time. Now that it's all new, it needs to be put back.
due to 80 degree weather here in NE for the last several days... no work on truck has been done. But I've caught a good few channel cat and crappie! Since its going to ran this weekend I figure i'll work on the truck and smoke some cats.
It was a guy who had a big mouth, got banned, and "reinvented himself" as a female stewardess to beat the ban. "She" couldn't keep her mouth shut either and when it was shown "she" was "he", banned again.
I can't imagine what "her" pictures could have shown as far as the adjustment process. This is what the manual says (which is in the other thread):
04-20-2009, 08:56 AM
