Hi guys. I'm new to this forum, but have enjoyed reading about some of the problems and solutions you guys have. Here's mine: I have a '96 F150 4x4 w/a 300-6 and E4OD (3.08). About a year ago, I noticed that occasionally it would die when I put it into reverse, but I could put the tranny in neutral and restart the engine and go on w/o any more immediate problems. Later on, it'd do the same thing again. Since then, it has gotten progressively worse. It will now frequently shudder and die when going into drive, and if I sit at a stop sign very long, it shudders and dies. When I put it into 4 low and go to 1st gear, it always dies. No probs at all though driving down the road. When it's going, it's going. Just stopping and shifting into gear does it ever die. My local Ford dealer THINKS it might be the torque convertor and wants $500 to replace it. When I hit the roof, he then said it MIGHT just be a t.c. solenoid. It's getting bad enough that I have to do something. I love the truck and hope to get 250,000 out of this incredible engine. Thanks for any help you can give.

RW

 

Well, don't pay a dime into it until you find out what the problem is. Does you're speedo needle bounce at all?


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Justin - One Happy FTE Member

 

Thanks for the quick response. I wasn't planning to spend any money at all until I had a better idea of what to look for. I remember that my mom and dad used to have an Oldsmobile that had a covertor go out. You could put it in drive and it would die every time; wouldn't even move, but I don't know if I'm building up to that now or if my problem's something else. Anyway, my speedo's not bouncing, it works just fine.

RW

 

I'd look at the IAC before looking at the trans. I'd also look at the charging system regulator. Had a car that would die every time you got into the garage, and took it out of drive.. to neutral.. and it would die. Replaced the regulator, and it worked??!????!!!!

The IAC could be killing the engine if it is gummed up. This was a newer truck with CFI or EFI weren't it? Pull the codes before spending any money at the dealer. His 'torque converter' was just a SWAG.

tom

 

Checking the codes sounds great, but how do I do that?

 

Where I live, Autozone or Advance Auto parts will pull the OBD-II codes for no fee. They obviously hope to sell you some repair parts...

 

Thanks, Tom. Where would you recommend getting a scan tool for those codes, Autozone? My truck is a '96 model and I don't know if it uses OBD 1 or OBD 2, or what. If Autozone only checks OBD 2, then I'll need to come up w/a scan tool for the other reporting systems, right? This is sure drivin' me crazy. The truck has now started to sometimes take a few seconds to engage when you put it in drive or reverse. I just got radius arm bushings put in today, so that's one less problem to fool with. I appreciate your help!

RW

 

'96 should be OBD-II, so Autozone should have no problem if they do ODB-II where you are. As far as the engagement delay, first thing to do is check the fluid level after driving for a LONG time. Or, at least check it to see if it is on the stick before taking off.

tom

 

Thanks, Tom. Out of curiosity, any idea where I can get a Chilton manual for my '96 4x4? I've looked at Waldenbooks and Barnes & Noble and had no luck. I live in Jonesboro, IL too by the way. Thanks again.

RW

 

To Tom or anyone else who may read this: I had Autozone pull the code on my truck today and the scanner showed 420. Autozone says I need a new catalytic convertor, but my 300 has 2, right? So which one? Out of curiosity, I had Precision Transmission do the same check, and his scanner also showed a code 420, but he suggested an oxygen sensor. Any other suggestions? I guess I should start w/the sensor first and go from there. I'd like my truck so sound a little meaner, so what if I gut the 2nd cat? Will it sound throatier and not make my check engine light come on? Thanks in advance!

RW

 

If anyone has a spare minute, I'm still in a quandry and could use some know-how/good advice about now! :-)

 

[updated:LAST EDITED ON 14-Dec-02 AT 06:37 AM (EST)]You can test an exhaust blockage using a vacuum gauge.

Hook the gauge into manifold vacuum. This will be a port that has vaccum at curb idle.

With the engine warmed up - at idle you should read somewhere between 17" to maybe as high as 21" and have a fairly steady needle.

Raise the engine speed to 2500 RPMs and hold it there for about 30 seconds - The reading will drop very low - then bulid back up to somewhere less than the ilde reading.

If your readings are like these - no blockage.

However, if while you maitain 2500 RPM - the needle falls from the peak reading - there is blockage.

Hope this helps

 

goto http:/www.obdii.com/ and enter your trouble code after specifying the mfg. P0420 catalytic system efficiency below threshold(bank 1). The efficiency is measured by comparing the O2 sensor reading before the cat and the O2 sensor after the cat. They 'KNOW' what numbers to expect. If your cat is bad, the numbers won't change. If your 2nd O2 sensor is bad the numbers won't show any change either. So, either the cat or the O2 is (may be) bad. If the ignition system is in good shape, the answer is probably correct that on of those two components has gone to heaven.
byeeeee
tom

 

What I may have failed to mention in a previous post is that the check engine light never even came on when I was at Autozone, I went in and asked the guy to pull my codes and my light had never even came on. After he checked, though, it came on. I unhooked the battery to wipe the memory, and the light hasn't come back on. I can't even tell the truck is running any differently than ever, except for the shudder/dying problem which I'm pretty sure is torque convertor. I am gonna try a bottle of that SmartBlend Red though, just to see if it makes any difference before pulling the t.c. Any thoughts or suggestions?

RW