wat do you think the best stock parts can be used to build a budget 460 or 429? no. including cj or scj or boss parts. heads, block, crank, rods, whats best?

 

the best stock heads to use excluding the cj heads (DOOE) are then the infamous Police Interceptor heads, the D20E heads. had larger valves (2.19 intakes) decent port layouts (still not great, but better then the passenger car heads) and smaller chambers. they pop up on ebay once in a while but can be pretty expensive. in reality by the time you buy a decent set of cores, have them rebuitl, new springs, valve job ect. you are getting pretty close to aftermarket prices, so keep that it mind when buying used heads.

the next best are probably the early heads the C8, C9 and DoVe heads. they are easier to come by, have small chambers, screw in rocker studs but the exhaust ports need lots of work to flow decently. the later D3VE heads have larger chambers, bolt down rocker arms so they reguire a little more machining to convert to adjustable rockers. the valve sizes and port layout are pretty well identical to the earlier heads, so they are a wash as far as performance gain/loss to the earlyheads. the only nice thing about the D3 heads are with the larger chambers, you can still come up with a good street compression ratio with the right psiton choice. the early heads you are limited to piston choice to get the CR down to pump gas range.

as far as blocks, just about any of the blocks are good choices. unless you are getting into mega hp and such, just about any stock block can handle up to probably 600 - 700hp easily. the later D9TE blocks can only use the externally balanced crank, so that is one thing to remember.

just about any stock 460 is a good starting point for a budget build up, just plan and select your parts to match your goals.

rgds
Mike

 

Mike covered it pretty well, but I would like to add. The D9TE blocks can only be used with the externally balanced FACTORY cranks (without clearancing) BUT these blocks have a slightly longer cylinder wall which makes them ideal for use with a stroker crank because the piston is better supported at BDC.
Also on the rods, look for rods with the rod bolt heads being football shaped (CJ and the D6TE truck rods) these are marginally stronger.
As far as cranks, for the most part they are all pretty much a wash and all of them will support more hp then is considered streetable. But even the CJ cranks are just standard passenger units that were run through 1 extra test, if passed they were used in the CJ motors and if not then put back into the line for standard motor (basically a standard passenger car cranks could be as strong as the CJ)
The Boss cranks where steel but used a shorter snout so need different front components, and the later 429 truck cranks were also forged steel BUT the front snout is a lot larger and requires a lot of machining to make it usable in a typical situation where you could actually buy an aftermarket forged crank for about the same cost and be actually stronger yet.