adventures in A/C
#1
#3
#4
#7
Trending Topics
#10
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Campbell River, B.C.
Posts: 6,900
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
First of all, what went wrong with the system in the first place? if the compressor failed on you, I would strongly advise inspecting all the lines and parts for any signs of depris in the system. Doesn't take much crap to kill the system.
When I rebuilt my AC, I blew acetone through all the metal parts until it came through completely clean. Let it sit overhight for all the solvent to evacuate, then start reassembling the system. After its all back in the truck, I added the oil and sealed up all the connections. Evacuate as close to 30Hg as possible for a minimum of 1 hour.
Something you can try before adding the oil is to pressurise the system with compressed air for a few days (do not let it actually cycle!!!!!!) and see if it will hold pressure. Its cheaper than having to refill the system twice. Ideally you should also replace all of the seals, but I only did the ones that leaked.
I also used a hydrocarbon refrigerant in mine (duracool) which is a blend of isobutane, butane and propane gas. It works very well but is not legal in most states. If you are using an R134a drop in conversion, then replacing all the seals is more critical and you have to use PAG oil instead of the mineral oil that is used in the original R12.
When I rebuilt my AC, I blew acetone through all the metal parts until it came through completely clean. Let it sit overhight for all the solvent to evacuate, then start reassembling the system. After its all back in the truck, I added the oil and sealed up all the connections. Evacuate as close to 30Hg as possible for a minimum of 1 hour.
Something you can try before adding the oil is to pressurise the system with compressed air for a few days (do not let it actually cycle!!!!!!) and see if it will hold pressure. Its cheaper than having to refill the system twice. Ideally you should also replace all of the seals, but I only did the ones that leaked.
I also used a hydrocarbon refrigerant in mine (duracool) which is a blend of isobutane, butane and propane gas. It works very well but is not legal in most states. If you are using an R134a drop in conversion, then replacing all the seals is more critical and you have to use PAG oil instead of the mineral oil that is used in the original R12.
#11
The clutch was locked up and it looked like the pervious owner used it as a punchin block. i have changed out the seals, blown the system out with air, but had a dr appmnt so i didnt have time to get it charged today. 2 uncles are mechanics with the proper equipment to charge the system. also about 6 months ago i put a 30 inch pull on the system, and it held it for 6 hours while we delivered concrete. it still was at 30 when we got off that afternoon. when i blew out the system i got a little bit of dust out of the condenser, and the oriface tube was a little dirty, but it wasnt clogged or anything.
#12
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Campbell River, B.C.
Posts: 6,900
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
As long as the previous compressor didn't internally grenade, then it should be OK. This is one of those things where you can't be too clean and how clean it is will have a direct affect on your success.
In reality the orifice tube should have practically nothing on it, but hopefully all the stuff that was in the system got caught there. Not ideal, but you might get away with it.
In reality the orifice tube should have practically nothing on it, but hopefully all the stuff that was in the system got caught there. Not ideal, but you might get away with it.
#15