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Questions about driving my truck.

 
  #1  
Old 03-24-2009, 07:02 PM
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Questions about driving my truck.

Alright so I have managed to put about 400 miles on my truck since I got it a couple of days ago. I love everything about this rig.

Now that I have a good feel for it, I have some questions I want to throw out there and find out more about.


First off, when I turn either direction from a stop I get a clunk feel through the drive line, it increases with speed but goes away after I straighten out. If I turn at a higher speed like 10 or 15 mph, the clunk doesn't occur.

-From what I know in the Mustang world, this would common if I had a locker. Does my truck have one from the factory or is something broken?

The gas gauge.
It seems to vary how much diesel I have by about 1/8 of a tank. I understand this if I parked on a hill and then drove off, but it seems to do it while driving around. Should I just be safe and hunt for diesel when I get under 1/4 tank?

4x4
I played around with it the other day and it does engage and work. Both 4x4 and low range. It does seem sort of finicky about when it wants to kick in though, the owner's manual said it could take up to 45 seconds. However, if I have on the fly switching should I assume that I have auto hubs? I checked my hubs and I couldn't see any sort of indicators as to what they are. I checked the manual and I switched them to what would either be manual or auto if I have it.

Tire pressure.
What sort of tire pressure should I have on my 265/75/16s? The door says 55 front and 70 rear but sweet god I can't manage to get any air in them at gas station pumps and I don't have my own air compressor. I stopped by Discount tire for a quote on new tires and one of their techs said I had low pressure valves in my tires and thats why I couldn't get any air in them.

I had problems getting the spare tire down but I already managed to solve that. Had to go buy a new lock and key from Ford and then remove the old lock since the 2nd owner didn't have the key for it.

Thanks guys.
 
  #2  
Old 03-24-2009, 07:17 PM
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Mine has an aftermarket locker, has the same feeling as you describe, it grips alot more than the stocker.

My needle moves up and down on the gauge as you describe some too. If the truck has not had the in-tank mods done, I wouldnt run it below 1/4 tank unless you needed to.

If you have the 4x4 selector **** on the dash(ESOF), then yes you have auto locking hubs, and the hubs should be left in the auto position.

Tire pressure depends on the load rating of the tires, I have 35's load range D, I run 40 psi in them unless i'm loaded or plan on alot of hwy travel, in order to get a pretty smooth ride. For best mpg run the max psi rating on the tire sidewall.


Hope this helps man, I tried to keep the answers in order
 
  #3  
Old 03-24-2009, 07:20 PM
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I got rid of the auto hubs on my truck. Replaced them with a nice set of warns. Now I KNOW when my hubs are locked.
 
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Old 03-24-2009, 07:22 PM
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Check the slip joint in the driveline...it requires a blue silicone grease from Ford (if I remember correctly).

Never, I mean NEVER run diesel tanks low. Here is why...condensation. Water will develop in tanks proportional to the amount of exposed inner surface of the tank. Water is the injectors enemy...clean fuel, no water. I always begin to look for fuel when I get to half-tank.
 
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Old 03-24-2009, 08:57 PM
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As for the tires, I have E-rated tires, and I run the opposite to what the door says. At 55 in the front tires, they look quite low to me. I run 70 in the front, and 55 in the rear. I don't do any hauling, so 55 is plenty for me. If you haul, then you will need to adjust that.
As for the clunk when turning, check what nlemerise said, but I would also check to make sure the hubs and transfer case are dis-engaged. With it in 2wd, you should be able to spin the front driveshaft by hand. If you can't, then something is still engaged.
 
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Old 03-24-2009, 09:12 PM
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I did do that physical examination. With the truck in 2wd, I can spin the front drive shaft and when in 4x4 I cannot.

Sounds like over all, I am not experiencing anything out of the normal which is good.

Thanks for the advice on keeping the tank full. I will try to get into that mindset.
 
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Old 03-24-2009, 10:06 PM
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Got another one. What is the rating of my hitch? How could I find out?
 
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Old 03-24-2009, 10:16 PM
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I took my auto hubs off and put a nice set of super winch hubs on. No problems at all. After a while those auto hubs wear out and the vacuum does not work.
 
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Old 03-24-2009, 10:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Quick444 View Post
Got another one. What is the rating of my hitch? How could I find out?
It should say some where on the hitch but probably its 10000lbs. That is what my factory one says.Roy
 
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Old 03-24-2009, 10:47 PM
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Originally Posted by cps View Post
It should say some where on the hitch but probably its 10000lbs. That is what my factory one says.Roy
Thanks, tomorrow during the day I will crawl under there and check.
 
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Old 03-24-2009, 10:56 PM
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Check the ball joints.....

when my truck did the clunk at low speed steering it was the ball joints
Dan
 
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Old 03-24-2009, 10:56 PM
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Guzzles page will keep your ESOF up and running. Hell, his page will keep your whole truck up and running really. I would definitely change out all the fluids...at least the oil now that youve got it!

Id say for less than 300 bucks you could change out practically all the fluids...ATF, P/S, front and rear diff, T/C, and oil. For less than 100 bucks you can switch out from green coolant to the red ELC and not have to worry bout the SCA crap anymore(if you have the green stuff now)! Id imagine it would be a challenge to do all this in Alaska without a proper garage.
 
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Old 03-24-2009, 11:06 PM
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Originally Posted by amthatiam View Post
when my truck did the clunk at low speed steering it was the ball joints
Dan
Hmm, thanks. I also have a whining power steering system and I haven't really peeked around up front so I may need to do a front suspension overhaul this summer.

Originally Posted by triskit16 View Post
Guzzles page will keep your ESOF up and running. Hell, his page will keep your whole truck up and running really. I would definitely change out all the fluids...at least the oil now that youve got it!

Id say for less than 300 bucks you could change out practically all the fluids...ATF, P/S, front and rear diff, T/C, and oil. For less than 100 bucks you can switch out from green coolant to the red ELC and not have to worry bout the SCA crap anymore(if you have the green stuff now)! Id imagine it would be a challenge to do all this in Alaska without a proper garage.
The previous owner did a oil change and a fuel filter change for me. I think the trans fluid is good to go but I may change that and the dif fluid before I go. I have green coolant but it appears very green in color right now.

What can happen if I don't switch to the red stuff?
 
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Old 03-24-2009, 11:17 PM
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Lets hope he did!

Nothing if you keep ontop of monitoring the SCA level. Theres an additive you put in it every ??? miles to prevent cavitation. Red stuff makes you have one less thing to check/maintain. Ive still got green in mine. When it gets warm in the next few weeks I will be upgrading to the 6.0 trans cooler (hopefully) and switching to Rotella ELC.

The only place around here that had it sells Chevron and Rotella. Lady quoted me at 10.88 a gallon of Rotella ELC 100% and I drove up there that minute to get it. The guy picked up on the mistake and said he could do 12.99 a gallon but no less(19 something reg price)...still a great price I believe!
 
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Old 03-24-2009, 11:20 PM
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My FUEL gauge (not gas! ) varies quite a bit... up to 1/4 tank so I wouldn't worry about that.

4x4 sounds normal.

I run 50 lbs front and rear in my tires- 285/75/16 BFG AT's. 50 holds the front up nicely.

Read up on the auto lock maintenance... IIRC counter clockwise is "AUTO" and clockwise is "LOCKED". Auto means that in 2wd your front tires are unlocked. Locked means they are turning and costing MPG.
 

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