H226 '50 Distributor rewire complete
#1
H226 '50 Distributor rewire complete
I installed electronic ignition in 6 volt, 6 cyl positive ground. Drove 5 miles then it quit. towed home and put all new points, condenser, rotor, cap, plug and coil wires, all inside dist wires. Had no picture diagram of correct wiring and can't find specific "step by step" words or pics for an old guy w logic and memory problems. 6.3 volts to both sides of coil multi-meter to battery neg post when points closed. W cap off get a small amount of spark from coil wire to a ground. Cap back on, key on, and use starter button, get nothing. Someone suggested straight wiring but not sure if key should be on or not?? How heavy of a wire do I need? Where do I connect the wires? Just across the solenoid? What do I need to check now.
Thanks for your assistance.
Thank you to all my brothers and sisters who are still serving!
Thanks for your assistance.
Thank you to all my brothers and sisters who are still serving!
#2
#3
With the points closed, you should not have 6.3 volts at the distributor side of the coil. The coil may be shorted internally, that would produce a weak spark or no spark.
Disconnect the distributor wire from the coil. With your meter, check the resistance of the distributor wire to ground thru the points, with the points closed. Should be close to -0-. Check again with the points open, should not have continuity. If there is, your condenser is shot.
To "hot wire" the coil, run a #14 or #16 wire from the battery (-) directly to the hot side of the coil (negative pole, one that has the power from key coming to it). Do NOT go across the solenoid!!
Disconnect the distributor wire from the coil. With your meter, check the resistance of the distributor wire to ground thru the points, with the points closed. Should be close to -0-. Check again with the points open, should not have continuity. If there is, your condenser is shot.
To "hot wire" the coil, run a #14 or #16 wire from the battery (-) directly to the hot side of the coil (negative pole, one that has the power from key coming to it). Do NOT go across the solenoid!!
#4
It had the electronic ignition when I crossed a bumpy railroad track and it stopped working. Removed all of that. I replaced all wires, cap, rotor, points, condenser, and a 6 volt coil (It had a 12 coil in it when it stopped after the 5 miles of running OK). Still no fire. So I'm not sure if any of the wires are routed correctly since I cannot find a good close-up picture/diagram. The distributor to coil wire should go to + or - post? How can I check to see if the coil is OK? Thanks for helping me.
#6
If your truck is positive ground now, as it was stock, (+) is the side of the coil the distributor wire goes on. The points ground the circuit.
If you are checking voltages, with no "hot wiring", you need the key On. Don't leave it on for very long or you will potentially fry the coil or points. When checking continuity or resistance, you don't need the key On.
You can check the coil as shown below with your meter, but where it says to check between the (+) and secondary tower, substitute (-) terminal and secondary tower.
If you are checking voltages, with no "hot wiring", you need the key On. Don't leave it on for very long or you will potentially fry the coil or points. When checking continuity or resistance, you don't need the key On.
You can check the coil as shown below with your meter, but where it says to check between the (+) and secondary tower, substitute (-) terminal and secondary tower.
#7
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