1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

H226 '50 Distributor rewire complete

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
  #1  
Old 05-29-2017, 06:27 PM
JimBenson41's Avatar
JimBenson41
JimBenson41 is offline
Freshman User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Goose Creek
Posts: 31
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
H226 '50 Distributor rewire complete

I installed electronic ignition in 6 volt, 6 cyl positive ground. Drove 5 miles then it quit. towed home and put all new points, condenser, rotor, cap, plug and coil wires, all inside dist wires. Had no picture diagram of correct wiring and can't find specific "step by step" words or pics for an old guy w logic and memory problems. 6.3 volts to both sides of coil multi-meter to battery neg post when points closed. W cap off get a small amount of spark from coil wire to a ground. Cap back on, key on, and use starter button, get nothing. Someone suggested straight wiring but not sure if key should be on or not?? How heavy of a wire do I need? Where do I connect the wires? Just across the solenoid? What do I need to check now.

Thanks for your assistance.

Thank you to all my brothers and sisters who are still serving!
 
  #2  
Old 05-29-2017, 06:32 PM
JimBenson41's Avatar
JimBenson41
JimBenson41 is offline
Freshman User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Goose Creek
Posts: 31
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Someone suggested straight wiring but not sure if key should be on or not?? How heavy of a wire do I need? Where do I connect the wires? Just across the solenoid?
 
  #3  
Old 05-29-2017, 07:11 PM
ALBUQ F-1's Avatar
ALBUQ F-1
ALBUQ F-1 is online now
Fleet Owner
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: NM
Posts: 26,800
Received 607 Likes on 377 Posts
With the points closed, you should not have 6.3 volts at the distributor side of the coil. The coil may be shorted internally, that would produce a weak spark or no spark.

Disconnect the distributor wire from the coil. With your meter, check the resistance of the distributor wire to ground thru the points, with the points closed. Should be close to -0-. Check again with the points open, should not have continuity. If there is, your condenser is shot.

To "hot wire" the coil, run a #14 or #16 wire from the battery (-) directly to the hot side of the coil (negative pole, one that has the power from key coming to it). Do NOT go across the solenoid!!
 
  #4  
Old 05-29-2017, 07:39 PM
JimBenson41's Avatar
JimBenson41
JimBenson41 is offline
Freshman User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Goose Creek
Posts: 31
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
It had the electronic ignition when I crossed a bumpy railroad track and it stopped working. Removed all of that. I replaced all wires, cap, rotor, points, condenser, and a 6 volt coil (It had a 12 coil in it when it stopped after the 5 miles of running OK). Still no fire. So I'm not sure if any of the wires are routed correctly since I cannot find a good close-up picture/diagram. The distributor to coil wire should go to + or - post? How can I check to see if the coil is OK? Thanks for helping me.
 
  #5  
Old 05-29-2017, 08:09 PM
JimBenson41's Avatar
JimBenson41
JimBenson41 is offline
Freshman User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Goose Creek
Posts: 31
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
I have the wire from the switch going to the + side of the coil. Is that correct? I'm not sure if or when key/switch should be on or off.
 
  #6  
Old 05-29-2017, 08:16 PM
ALBUQ F-1's Avatar
ALBUQ F-1
ALBUQ F-1 is online now
Fleet Owner
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: NM
Posts: 26,800
Received 607 Likes on 377 Posts
If your truck is positive ground now, as it was stock, (+) is the side of the coil the distributor wire goes on. The points ground the circuit.

If you are checking voltages, with no "hot wiring", you need the key On. Don't leave it on for very long or you will potentially fry the coil or points. When checking continuity or resistance, you don't need the key On.

You can check the coil as shown below with your meter, but where it says to check between the (+) and secondary tower, substitute (-) terminal and secondary tower.

 
  #7  
Old 05-29-2017, 09:36 PM
JimBenson41's Avatar
JimBenson41
JimBenson41 is offline
Freshman User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Goose Creek
Posts: 31
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Great! Picture and your comments will help greatly. I rewired the dist w/o any accurate pics so not sure if wires under the breaker plate are OK, if they are wired right, other wires are shorting or grounded to the housing incorrectly.
Late here so will do tomorrow! ! Thanks so much.
 
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
clrose99
1967 - 1972 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
12
04-12-2020 11:17 AM
HillBillyBuddha
1957 - 1960 F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
17
02-02-2019 06:01 PM
itsfordornothing
1967 - 1972 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
9
06-11-2018 03:48 PM
cnice_37
1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
3
10-27-2011 09:52 AM
keyzdiver
FE & FT Big Block V8 (332, 352, 360, 390, 406, 410, 427, 428)
12
11-27-2007 10:41 PM



Quick Reply: H226 '50 Distributor rewire complete



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 03:27 PM.