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I'm looking for one or two 285/75R16 BFGoodrich all terrain KO load range E tires to finish a set for my truck. Want a new or near new one to run on it and a good used one for a spare.
I have cash in hand or a bunch of ford truck parts to trade...73-79 and 92-96/97. Pm please!
I have the remains of my 69 F250 for sale in Port Orchard. It was originally a 300/C4 Camper special, then was combined with a 72 F250 to gain a 360 and four speed, then swapped to a 7.3IDI and five speed ZF. The body is rotted, so the engine and transmission are coming back out for the next truck. I need to get rid of this rolling chassis now, it's rotted but there are a ton of good parts. I swapped it to power steering and disc brakes up front, and there is a 68 Camper Special D60 with big brakes and 3.73 gears under the rear. It also has a B&W Turnover ball in the bed, and a receiver hitch behind the license plate. I've pulled the mirrors, the grille, taillights, and a few other bits but still plenty left.
I'd like to get $200 out of it, however I am only in there area on occasion. I will be there on Saturday, and will probably be back in a couple weeks again. If it isn't gone by mid March, I'll need to scrap it, and someone might need the bits from it.
Well I thought I had posted this for all you to look at and see if I can get an offer on.
I have a Snap On Solus with v7.2 and 10 keys
I have it listed on CL but it's at $425 there and fir an FTE member I'll take $350
Here is the content of the listing. One used Snap On Solus with cable and 10 keys.
What you see in the photo is what you will be getting.
K-2A,K--5A,K-7,K-9,K-12A,K-13
K-14,K-15,K-19,K-20
One data cable and one OBD2 connector adaptor.
The cracked case corner does not effect the function other than
you have to use the screws to hold the battery cap in place.
The display is clear and bright.
The Software installed seems to be V7.2
I only used this as my personal unit and that was on a 2006 Ford truck.
I have been told that it will not do European do to lack of software.
Not sure if you can get a new update from Snap On or not.
Also it looks like the Asian software is installed for some applications.
Ask any questions that you my have and I will do my best to answer them.
I need a recommendation on who in my area would be best to do QUALITY electrical troubleshooting or replace my wiring harness. I live in Mt. Vernon, WA.
Start the engine and drive for 10 or so miles. Turn it off and it won't start. as if the battery is dead. let it sit for 20 minutes and it fires right up. drive it 2 miles to the store and turn it off. come back 5 minutes later and it fires right up. drive another 5 miles and turn it off. go to start it and no go. wait 20 minutes and it fires right up. It's as if the charging system is backwards. where do you live?
Start the engine and drive for 10 or so miles. Turn it off and it won't start. as if the battery is dead. let it sit for 20 minutes and it fires right up. drive it 2 miles to the store and turn it off. come back 5 minutes later and it fires right up. drive another 5 miles and turn it off. go to start it and no go. wait 20 minutes and it fires right up. It's as if the charging system is backwards. where do you live?
I'm no electrical expert, but that sounds to me like the battery you have has a cell that fails after some use, let it cool down and it works again. Try another battery? my dad had a battery do exactly this in the past.
Start the engine and drive for 10 or so miles. Turn it off and it won't start. as if the battery is dead. let it sit for 20 minutes and it fires right up. drive it 2 miles to the store and turn it off. come back 5 minutes later and it fires right up. drive another 5 miles and turn it off. go to start it and no go. wait 20 minutes and it fires right up. It's as if the charging system is backwards. where do you live?
Spanaway, Just south of Tacoma a little bit.
Does it do this if you just start and let it sit in the driveway and idle for
a short time? What about putting a charger on it? Any change?
A Thought We may want to move this to the main forum and start it's own thread.
I do have all the needed tools to checking a battery and the rest of the system. AND I
have the 1 really odd ball charging system tool.
Yahiko, If you can move the thread that's fine with me. Yeah, Spanaway is a long way. What do you think of FORDFETRUCK's idea of a bad cell in the battery?
I think you may see a pigtail off the (-) lug that goes to the body
or you might find a section of insulation removed that has a clamp
that is bolted to the body.
I think it could very well be a bad cell. I had an 88 Ranger that would just
up and quit and you give it a short time and all was good. Turns out one of
the cells was shorting out internally and taking every thing with it. New battery
and it was a happy truck again.
Do you have access to a Digital Multi Meter (DMM)? Check the voltage and see
where it is before starting. Then once it running and lastly when it won't start.
Also if you have a place near by that can check the battery out of the truck that
would be helpful to know that is passes a load test.
That is part of what I would do with it. I also have an AC ripple test that I do.
A DMM can do most if not all the tests.
Also when it does not start does it crank at all and is it does how does the
starter speed sound?
01-11-2016, 07:50 PM
