I am also removing a 1985 302 into an 54 F100 and want to know what stuff to remove from the carb/engine.

At the top of the picture is the EGR (I hope!) this can be unbolted and a blank off plate installed - right?.

Underneath the EGR is the main vacuum line from the manifold. Can I disconnect one of the smaller lines and block it off? and use the other one for the dizzy?

Underneath that is some other emissions junk - can I just unscrew them and block them off?

In the picture below that is the front of the carb. Can I block off the line at the top of the pict coming out of the carb? - there is also the same line at the back of the carb.

Underneath that line are two others. The one with the square head connector goes to one of the cylinder head cover breathers. Can I block that off and just use a vented cap in the cover?. What is the line next to it - can that be plugged as well?

Next picture is a Dashpot?? Thingy with wires coming out of it. Can I just leave it in place and not connect the wires?

Sorry about all the questions

Chris

 

I dont know what to tell you. The reason I am removeing the EGR is that its bad and its an 180 bill to replace. Why are you wanting to ditch it? If thiers senors and power to it you will need to put an elimator kit so the volts go to the computer so every thing works like its spose to. Sorry I am not much help!

 

54,

I am putting the engine in with no computer attachments. I just want it naturally carburated. I am going to blank off the EGR and all the rest of the emission control stuff on the carb.

I downloaded a carb manual and found out that the 3/8" tubes that come out of the top front and back of the carb are for vapour release from the float chambers and are piped to the cylinder attached to the firewall. (your folgers can!).

Obviously these cannot be blocked off as they serve some purpose. I 'm not sure if we can just leave them open and blowing in the slipstream around the engine. If I had the cylinder I probably would pipe them in again.

Chris

 

Ok the folgers can i was talking about is an vac ami or storage i don t know. Not vapor thiers an vapor line that gose from the gas tank vent to the intake. vea an carhacoal canster. (dont mind my spellig or lack their of) If your not useing an computer then just block off the plate and remove or just leave the power unpluged.

 

Go to www.fordfuelinjection.com its a great site for learning alot of these abbreviations and Ford EFI stuff.
check it out!

 

At what points and in what manner did you install the actuator eliminators?

 

I completely deleted ALL smog on my 302. I used an ebay billet block off plate, an ebay EGR simulator for a mustang (they use the same plug), and used 5/8 x 1" bolts for the back of the heads. I went with an 85.5 inch belt due to deleting my smog pump and using bbk underdrive pulleys. Also deleted all vacuum lines/electronics for smog and plugged the holes on the intake. Everything works great and no check engine light.

 

Just wanted to say thanks to Brinker 88. That helped me out.

 

Here's another way to do this: just tap the hole in the upper intake with a 3/8" NPT tap and screw in a 3/8" allen head pipe plug in the tapped hole. Then ignore the Check Engine Light.

 

How does your mileage compare before/after the conversion?

Do you have a before/after picture of the engine bay so we can see how much of a difference all the smog equipment makes?

 

Unfortunately, no mileage yet. I had a problem with my oil pump so I have to tear the pan off next weekend and see what's going on. First test drive seized the distributor. Something's definitely wrong. As far as throttle response and power is concerned, I couldn't tell you if it helped or not. I put full exhaust, headers, new y-pipe, flow matched injectors, msd ignition, 9mm ford racing wires, bbk underdrive pulleys and there was a massive improvement in power.

Here's the after photo:

 

Which pins do plug the resistor in on the egr position sensor?

 

I have a 89 f150 5.0 and am trying to do the same thing. So far i have just put a plate over the hole for the egr valve. I have a plug in module coming in the mail. So i just plug that in right? And finally cap the tube that was connected to the bottom of the egr and thats it right??? I hope its that simple.

 

Hey guys! the guy before me just chopped the wires that go into the vacuum canister (black can) and stopped using the EGR.

When I bought the truck there was no code until I disconnected the battery and the code showed up.

I have followed the steps above and I still can’t fix it.

any help will be appreciated.

 

Start your own thread and provide more details of your truck, i.e. year/model/engine/transmission and what "wires" were chopped going into the vacuum canister. There are no wires...only vacuum lines.