I can't thank Numberdummy (Bill) or Jermafenser (Chad) enough. Not only did they help me identify the front end as a 73 to 75 transplanted onto my 69, but Bill pointed me to some vendors that had the original parts. I just got the tie rod ends and drag links delivered. No question they are original parts, they have 35+ years of dust and rust, feels good to have them in my hands. Next up - I found an outfit called Lares Corporation in MN that can rebuild mine or supply a rebuilt steering box, garrison valve body, and ram. Anyone else have any experience with them or recommend an alternative?

Simply saying thanks doesn't seem adequate.

 

It has been 10 years since I got help on this thread and found the right hand drag link at Green Auto. I had to get an out-of-provice inspection to get my truck licensed here in BC, and to my astonishment the right hand tie rod (the drag link, really) failed. It has only a few thousand miles on it, but the boot had rotted away. The part number is D3TZ3280A.

Now I need another and I see there are only two left anywhere. I will try to buy one next week, but I can see a future where this part won't be available.

It was suggested at the time that I cut off the end of the drag link, thread it, and put on a sleve or coupler, and buy a tie rod end. Now, I can figure out how to cut and put a thread on the drag link, but how do I find a tie rod that will fit into the hole on the spindle? I know this is displaying a sad level of ignorance, but I'm pretty sure someone here will know the answer. Also, what do you call the sleeve so I can find one?

 

Ford Parts Diagram.

Right side tie rod with power assist ram and pitman arm link.

Valve body (Garrison power assist) connected to pitman arm and left tie rod end.

 

Having looked at it again, I don't think it can be cut and threaded, not enough space between the tie rod end and the power assist ram connection point. May just have to buy all the available parts and hoard them.

 

Here you go:
https://www.rearcounter.com/D3TZ-3280-A-parts65889.html
Or can it be this one which crosses over to Napa from the D3TZ3280A:
https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/RPC25887

 

Here's a pic of the control valve, the two 3304's are drag links.The right drag link is different than the left. F100/150 use different drag links than F250.

Garrison Power Assist P/S: 1973 F250 4WD; 1974 F250 4WD before serial number T80,001 // 1973/75 F100 4WD; 1975 F150 4WD

 

Thanks Bill, I had the box and control valve rebuilt by Lares Corp in Minnesota about 10 years ago and it has worked very well. Rich, that looks like the correct part. My local Napa store have ordered one for me. I am still surprised the one I bought 10 years ago has failed, but it was NOS, and the rubber boot rotted away. Perhaps the NAPA part is not 50 years old!

Edit: Nope, they can't get that part in Canada, they ordered the one for a manual steering truck and it only has one hole. I'll get one in the States and have a friend mail it up to me.

 

I wonder. Is the joint worn out and loose? Or is the boot just gone? You can buy just the rubber dust boots (or poly versions) separately sometimes (not all the same size, but yours looks like a common one) and perhaps pass the test.
If the rod end is not worn out, the boot being replaced should not matter. Of course if the rod end is actually worn, then you're stuck with fixing it.

But yeah, the boots have only a finite life expectancy. Modern ones are much worse and many last just a couple of years. If that long...
This is the one we sell currently (https://www.wildhorses4x4.com/produc...66-75_TIE_RODS) and while not perfect, it's the standard replacement and will last a half-way decent amount of time. Except on the draglinks of some vehicles where being pinched is a way of life for the seal.

Good luck.

Paul

 

Since this came about as a result of an inspection to get the vehicle registered in a new province, and the comment with it was that the tie rod had movement and it had a HARD pull to the right. I've driven this truck plenty and if it pulled to the right I'd have fixed it, so now I'm thinking I should crawl under there, in which case maybe I do just need a new boot.

So that is first order of the day for me.

Paul.

 

I can't get it to move with the weight on the tire, with the wheel hanging, or with my wife moving the wheel back and forth. I think it just needs a boot. Have an appointment with another shop on Thursday. Problem is I need the truck to pass the inspection, and there are only a couple of shops in the area that do the inspections.

BTW, Green Sales does not actually have the part. Called and they called me back a little embarrassed to say they couldn't find it.

 

Took it to a shop that does a lot of front end work (have an alignment machine) plus do a lot of antique vehicles. They agree that any movement in the steering linkage would require a micrometer to measure. Putt a new boot on and greased the fittings. Back to the inspection shop to argue with them.

Don't know if I'll point out that they also passed the ball joints as "OK" on a king pin system.

 

When you put the boot on, clean and paint the tie-rod anywhere you work and they may not question it, even if you get the same inspectors.
Heck, any new stuff has probably been sitting on a shelf so long there is little paint left and what is there is all scraped up. But clean and tidy can go a long way sometimes.

Good luck.

Paul

 

Paul,

I thought about that, but it is a very small island and the guy that put the boot on (and agreed that it was fine) used to be the boss of the guy that did the inspection. Besides, I'd have to pull the entire linkage to paint it and all we did was drop the tie rod.

 

Well, they grudgingly approved it today. Nobody likes to be shown they are wrong. To make matters worse, I suggested they correct the report so they didn't give the ball joints a passing grade, but rather comment on the king pins. They covered themselves in glory when the came back with the completed inspection and told me I was wrong, the truck had ball joints.

And we place our lives in these peoples hands when we let them work on our vehicles.