could one of you please snap a picture or two of the carburetor linkage on a motorcraft 2150 2bbl for me? i would really appreciate it.

 

This is the only picture I have on my computer; it's kind of small. If you can't find what you need off this one, I'll try to get out in the shop this weekend and get a better picture. Or you can just ask me directly. The picture shows a 2100, but the throttle linkage will be the same as your 2150.

 

I just went out and took these, let me know if u need sumthin else

 

Kshaneh,
There's supposed to be a spring on the yellow nylon bearing thing
pulling back...
http://www.panix.com/~alvinj/file12/throttle1.jpg

And no spring on the ball stud the adjustable throttle rod pulls on...
http://www.panix.com/~alvinj/file12/throttle.jpg

There was a hole for the other spring to go through but I didn't like
that set-up, it was hard to undo quickly and just didn't seem like it
worked smooth enough to suit me anyway so I installed the brass
screw for the spring to rub on. That brass screw is where the original
hole was. I remember moving the center of the hole but not sure
which direction. Uhhh... seems like back into the steel plate farther
and lower too would be my guess.

I replaced the ball stud with an Allen head screw. :) A lot of dirt road
miles on my pickup and the original ball was worn plumb out. LOL :)
It doesn't need to be a ball shape, a short cylinder shape is will work,
the rod is simply drilled. :)

I tapped all the holes with threads that weren't too big to start with
(if any) to help insure that stuff stayed put. The engineers can get
away with flimsy looking stuff we can't because they test the crap
outta stuff, we only got one shot at it. ;)

And here's how I hooked up my choke...
http://www.panix.com/~alvinj/file12/choke1.jpg
"nothing wrong with a choke a hacksaw can't fix ;)"

Alvin in AZ
ps- Don't know what the OP wants really, he didn't bother to say. :/

 

Thanks Alvin, thats how it was when i bought the truck i will fix it tomorrow after college, when i cut the cab and front clip out.......

 

thanks for all the pics and info. alvin, hows your truck run chokeless? its tempting for me to try, but im kinda leary of such an idea because my truck is a work truck year round, running in temperatures ranging from 100f to -20f.

 

There's a guy on here, seems like he's farther north than you, that claims it
works good. {shrug} :)

The choke was wired open for ~10 years before I decided to take a hacksaw
too it. :)

On stuff like that, I try to figure out a way to test it without burning any
bridges so it's painless if it doesn't "pan out". The sucker being wired open
for 10 years was just me getting tired of it not acting right. You know, a
choke is hard on an engine and too much choke is just that much harder
on it. Manual chokes are cool as anything right up until you realize you've
been driving for an hour with the choke on. LOL :)

But when you rely on it and it doesn't work right then you are sitting there
wondering if it's closed or not or what else could be wrong... This way I
know the choke is open. ;) If it didn't start good it was my fault not doing
something right and that's all there is to it, no guess work. ;) YMMV

The temperature changes like it means business here where it's dry.
The choke settings just couldn't keep up with all that.

I'm a butthead.
See?
No guess work. :)

Alvin in AZ
ps- I fill the carburetor with this before trying to start it tho...
http://www.panix.com/~alvinj/file12/bendix6volt.jpg

 

kshaneh,
Just put on much needed NEW carb. Your photos helped tremendously re: downshift linkage, 300 I6 hooked up again.
Thanks, MT