My new pinion seal is starting to weep again. How is the rear end vented on these trucks? I want to make shure the vent isn't stopped up.

 

Anyone????????????

 

Vent.
Left side (drivers side) near bottom shock mount. The bolt that holds the brake line T connector to the axle is thru hole bolt. The tube is on that bolt runs up to the frame rail and is just clipped to the frame. And I call it the double duty bolt. Holds the T and Vents. And seeing ford uses it to "double duty" i am sure they have a part number for it.

And if you try to remove that bolt? It could snap if your having a bad day. Like the one i snapped on my motorhome.. Dang it.. Had to pull axle to fix it, well didn't have to. but to be safe.. (metal chips)

 

Thanks Dan. Is there any reason a new seal would weep fluid?

 

WAIT !!... I gotsta Picture, yo !.. Not sure on the weep. I never done one of those. I have heard/read about some folks having troubles with that. Maybe someone will stop by that has done one.

 

Maybe Flange/Yoke surface was in bad shape(area the seal, seals against)
Or the seal was damaged while installing. Sorry not much help. I really don't have experience with rear ends. Doh. But i found this for Dana 80
IF you need below with the pictures let me know

Drive Pinion Seal

Special Tool(s) 2 Jaw Puller
205-D026 (D80L-1002-L) or equivalent
Installer, Drive Pinion Flange
205-285 (T88T-4851-A)
Slide Hammer
100-001 (T50T-100-A)
Remover, Bushing
307-001 (TOOL-1175-AC) or equivalent

Material Item Specification
SAE 75W-90 Thermally Stable Multi-Purpose Gear Lubricant
XY-75W90-QL WSP-M2C201-A

Removal
Raise the vehicle on a hoist or raise the rear end of the vehicle with a jack. Install safety stands under the frame rails and lower the jack or hoist far enough to allow the rear axle to drop into the rebound position for working clearance.
NOTE: To maintain driveline balance, mark the driveshaft components so they can be reinstalled in their original positions.
Disconnect the driveshaft at the rear axle, and position it aside. For additional information, refer to Section 205-01 .
NOTE: Index-mark the flange (end yoke for Motorhome) to the pinion shaft.
While using a suitable tool to prevent the flange or yoke from turning, remove the pinion nut.
Using the 2 Jaw Puller, remove the flange or yoke.
Using the Bushing Remover and the Slide Hammer, remove the pinion seal.
Clean the rear axle pinion seal seat.

Installation
CAUTION: Installation without a suitable driver can result in early seal failure. If the pinion seal becomes cocked during installation, remove and install a new one. Make sure the garter spring remains in place during assembly. If the spring is dislodged, a new pinion seal must be installed.
NOTE: Drive the pinion seal into the housing, using a suitable driver.
NOTE: The pinion flange or end yoke must never be hammered on or installed with power tools.
NOTE: Install the flange or yoke using the Drive Pinion Flange Installer.

To install, reverse the removal procedure.
Coat the pinion seal (rubber lips) with lubricant.

 

Reps sent. Dan

 

Everyone around here say I worry to much. What do you think? I cleaned it about a week and a half ago when I did the brakes.

 

Brandon, how much torque did you put on the pinion nut? It takes 470 ft/lbs to seat everything. I would watch that leak to see if it gets worst. That don't look too bad, may be some of the lub you put on the seal still seeping out.

 

Looks to be a pretty small weep. If it keeps coming back, a little RTV smeared around the parting line between the seal and housing should eliminate it. I would check the vent, but I kinda doubt it would be plugged though.

 

That don't look to bad.. Maybe like jim says.. "lube run off" Some lube/grease might just be liquidfying from the heat. I would just keep an eye on it for a while.

 

Local ford mechanic did it as a side job. I don't know about the torque.

 

OK, guess i'm just paranoid.

 

You can put in a new seal and yoke yourself. The 470 ft/lbs is the torque settings for a new crush sleeve which is not needed. Just reuse the old one. The pinion/crush sleeve has already been torqued to 470ft/lbs by the factory. Ive done this myself. The part in the Haynes manual about the 470ft/lbs is misleading. If the pinion is still leaking with a new seal then it is because you need a new yoke also. The yoke will have a wear ring around it and the seal will not seal.