Rusted Oil Pan Question for a 1999????
#1
Rusted Oil Pan Question for a 1999????
Is there any way to replace the oil pan on a 1999 4x4 with out removing the motor? My oil oan has a very slow leak. Basically there are microscopic holes where the oil is slowly coming through. The garage I go to says They have to remove the motor to replace it.
I am open to any Ideas to seal the current pan or replacing the pan with a new one with out paying $1500.00 to have it done.
I am just getting tired of the oil spots on the driveway.
I am open to any Ideas to seal the current pan or replacing the pan with a new one with out paying $1500.00 to have it done.
I am just getting tired of the oil spots on the driveway.
#2
This has been a topic that has gone back and forth for a while. One member cut, braced then welded the crossmember. Others have removed the turbo then just lifted the engine. There was one place that (on ebay IIRC) that made a 2 pc oil pan. As far as sealing it I don't know of anything that will seal with the oil weeping through.
#4
I patched mine with a fuel tank repair kit 4 years ago and it is still holding.
NAPA FUEL TANK REPAIR KIT
NAPA FUEL TANK REPAIR KIT
#5
I patched mine with a fuel tank repair kit 4 years ago and it is still holding.
NAPA FUEL TANK REPAIR KIT
NAPA FUEL TANK REPAIR KIT
#7
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#8
Stock Forged rod ?s - Powerstroke Nation
I had started this thread, if you are interested in modifying the crossmember, scroll down on this page to where I had posted an attachement of a drawing for my idea. FWIW though I am a welder fitter, and can get that material from scrap at work so it wouldnt cost me anything to do. Its just food for thought if you wanted to do it, but IMO if the pan isnt damaged then you can take the bolts out on your next oil change, clean it with an acetone rag, or diesel and just use a sealant. I would give that a shot first since its the cheapest and easiest, and if it still leaks some, your not out much and havent screwed anything up. Hope this helps.
I had started this thread, if you are interested in modifying the crossmember, scroll down on this page to where I had posted an attachement of a drawing for my idea. FWIW though I am a welder fitter, and can get that material from scrap at work so it wouldnt cost me anything to do. Its just food for thought if you wanted to do it, but IMO if the pan isnt damaged then you can take the bolts out on your next oil change, clean it with an acetone rag, or diesel and just use a sealant. I would give that a shot first since its the cheapest and easiest, and if it still leaks some, your not out much and havent screwed anything up. Hope this helps.
#9
In my case i bought the pan through work i got a 22% discount. But the only shop that could do it in my area without a 2 month wait screwed up my truck, somehow they got the transmission to leak when it never did before then after they put it back together it still leaks oil they claimed it was from both head gaskets and charged me 43 bucks to look at it. Oh yea the other thing is the starting solenoid on the passenger fender they didnt bolt tight enough and it fell off on me and i could start the truck. so my advice is just take it to a diesel mechanic most shops dont know what they are doing
#10
#11
I didn't try it that way. I completly drained the oil, then applied the patch.
The patch kit comes with this little bar of wax or soap substance that you rub forcefully on the area that leaks.
It's function is to temporarily stop the flow of fuel or oil so that you can degrease the surrounding metal.
I used two kits at once to get a large sealing area for one pinhole leak.
Should the pan fail again, I still will not remove the engine just for that.
I will weld it shut, or buy a new pan, cut off the bottom of the new pan and weld it to the old one.
And I know that a lot of guys have cut out the crossmember, but I am not one of those who is willing to do so.
They heat treat frame pieces these days and welding will ruin that tempering.
The patch kit comes with this little bar of wax or soap substance that you rub forcefully on the area that leaks.
It's function is to temporarily stop the flow of fuel or oil so that you can degrease the surrounding metal.
I used two kits at once to get a large sealing area for one pinhole leak.
Should the pan fail again, I still will not remove the engine just for that.
I will weld it shut, or buy a new pan, cut off the bottom of the new pan and weld it to the old one.
And I know that a lot of guys have cut out the crossmember, but I am not one of those who is willing to do so.
They heat treat frame pieces these days and welding will ruin that tempering.
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