Is that a question about what you have to upgrade the steering to?

Crossover steering uses a long drag link that connects the steering box and the pass side knuckle. This long drag link permits the axle to articulate during suspension cycles, and also minimizes the severe angles associated with a lot of lift. These angles and short drag links that the factory used in the original push pull design really was a poor design and promoted quite a bit of bump steer.
During severe suspension cycles, the push pull design (factory style steering, for leaf sprung vehicles) can limit turning radius and will have pretty bad bump steer.
If the strring style is converted so that the pitman arm swings from left to fight and not from the front to the rear of the vehicle, the perfoarmance of the steering can greatly be improved. Notice your inverted "T" style steering of your F150, and then look at your crew cab. You will notice the difefrence, and the steering design on the CC should be changed so that it has a long drag link that connects somewhere to the pass sideknuckle, or at least as close to it as possible.
Search crossover steering, and read up on this upgrade.

Here is another pic that might help explain:

 

ed, did you make your draglink?? if so what kind of rod and endlinks did you use, and where can i get some

 

Thanks Ed, I'll look it up. I hope it gives me some ideas on what box to use ? Thanks again !

 

Yes, I made all of the links on both trucks. The red one (above) uses a strange combo, with 3/4" on one end and 7/8" on the steering arm end. I know, what was I thinking, but it really had to be done this way.
Eventually it will be upgraded to a 1 1/4" inch like the orange truck runs.
These are Aurora chro-mo ends. I make my own high mis-alignment bushings too.
My local race car shop carries the ends, and the F-911 aircraft bolts too. These are grade 9 bolts and tough as can be.
Aurora 4130 rod ends.....
F-911 fasteners....
4130 weld in threaded ends........
4130 high mis-alignment bushings.......
DOM, or 4130 (chro mo) tube for the links......
Not cheap. Once in a while I have to eat some peanut butter sandwiches for lunch, instead of lobster, but for the sake of steering, it is worth the sacrifice, and the extra cost is worth it. I dont want any steering failures.

Now rod ends do not have to be used, really the ES2026, ans 2027 Chebby 1 ton tie rod ends are probably better. Rod ends do tend to transfer quite a bit of shock.
Might be why I bust sector shafts once in a while.

 

No worries man. If your truck has the 4 bolt 4 wheel drive box that all of the f-250s use, then you are gold. This sector has splines all the way around the sector, so it can easilly be converted to turn the pitman arm from left to right. It can be re-indexed every 90 degrees to make this possible.
You are already half way there.

 

what do you think of oru's crossover steering kit...been thinkin of going this route??

ORU Crossover Steering Conversion Kit for 6" - 8" of Suspension Lift 1978-1979 Ford Ford F350 with a Dana 60 King Pin Axle - Crossover Steering Kits - Off Road Unlimited

 

Bump to see what 75F350 thinks of the ORU kit.

 

Sorry fellas, I did not even follow the thread and realized we were having discussions.
Anyway, the guys over in Burbank are friends and run a nice shop. This is a local outfit here in So Ca. and this is a quality kit.
Notice they use tie rod ends for their kits. The 1 ton chebby tre's have some cost advantages and reduce some of those shock loads associated with spherical rod ends.
This kit uses the good stuff, and it is worth the money and limits fabrication time. I also believe these steering arms use chavy style fasteners. The tappered locks are better for retention.
Good kit there.
Consider this:

Each TRE is about 60 to 65 bucks each
Pitman arm is about 75 bucks
steering arm is 100 bucks
tappering the pitman arm and steering arm for the chebby ends about 20 bucks each
making the drag link about 60 to 90 bucks if you can find a piece of rem. material.
Machining the threads, both right hand and left hand might be another 20 bucks each.

As you add up the costs, you can see how much of a bargain this is.

 

thanks for the reply ed, i think ill just save up for this down the road...while were on the subject, is the steering column(the part through the firewall) the same on highboys as on later 78/9 250's and 350's?? the reason i ask, i am changing the hydro assist to regular power steering using a 79 350 box but my steering shaft seems too long, the part coming out of the firewall is approx. 2 in longer before you get to the universal in the highboy, i have the origional column from the 350 if i need to use it no big deal...the highboy does have a body lift but i dont see how that could affect this...anyway just seeing what your take is on the subject...thanks

 

Thanks for all the VERY useful information. I think I will go with a 99-02 8" front spring, ORU cross over steering (I'm adding a high pinion D60), and have a custom rear spring made. Not near as hard as I originally thought.

 

Nah, it really is pretty easy. The first one I did was a snap and I obtained used parts. Cost next to nothing and the truck still drives great.

Anyway, with the steering conversion, you will have to change the steering shaft. The Highboy used a funky looking slip joint thing-a-ma-jig (thechnical term) that does not bolt up to the stock 4 bolt steering box. Since you are not installing the new box in the identical spot that the later model factory location will be, the steering shaft from the donor truck may not work. This is a good time to just make a shaft and eliminate the troublesome rag joint. I use a borgeson joint on one truck, and have just been creative on others. Heak, I used a beefy u-joint, and shaft from an 80's toyota 4x4. Yup, I said it, a toyota steering shaft. That thing has decent sized splines and a serviceable u-joint.
Get creative, but be safe. This is one key link between you and the tires. Steering is not something that you want to cut corners on.

 

i was about to ask the very same question before reading this. This was extremely helpfull.

 

Hey 75 f350, just wanted to see why you took out the millitary leaf from your springs, im puttin 8 inch springs under my 79 rite now, do ya think it will flex better without that leaf?

 

I don't want to hijack the thread, but I have a few questions of my own. I'm new to Ford Trucks; I just bought a 78 F250 from my girlfriend's grandfather after my Jeep XJ was totalled. It had a 6" lift with 32" BFGs. I did that build myself. I know from that build that I had to change alot of drivetrain items out to compensate for the lift (SYE, new driveshaft, etc).

I'm looking at Skyjackers 4" lift with leaf springs for the front and rear. From my understanding, this will accomodate 35" tires correct? Also, with the 4" lift will I have to worry about drivetrain issues (deathwobble) or replacing items like the driveshaft? From my research I haven't seen anybody talk about this stuff, but I figure it has to exsist.

Any knowledge, help, or input would be amazing, thanks.

 

I would get the shafts lengthened. Now would probably be the time to get new slip yokes too, they are usually worn out. You won't need a cv in the rear shaft with 4".You might have to do some grinding on the front yoke to clearance it. You will have to do something with the steering, shocks, brake lines, etc. There won't be any "Death Wobble" it should ride just like it did before the lift. There will be plenty of room for a 35" tire.