Electric/Push button 4x4 Problems where to start
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 1,413
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From: cape may county NJ
Electric/Push button 4x4 Problems where to start
Hey guys I was out yesterday and it was snowing so I thought I would lock in my 4x4 just to make sure everything was working and it wasn't. I have no Lights on my dash switch so I think that this is the problem,no power to switches?,my truck is low mileage and is used for highway driving rather then off road but the 4x4 did work fine. I couldn't here anything shifting under the truck as I pushed the 4hi button and the same for low, The fuse is fine but thats as far as I got so far troubleshooting I used the search but didn't come up with any problems like this or how to start troubleshooting.
I have a to go to a Doc appointment later but when I come back I am going to start checking it out,I will start with the switches and see if they are unplugged (I had the bezel off last year to change a bulb) but I don't think they are where to check next? Thanks in advance.
Glenn
I have a to go to a Doc appointment later but when I come back I am going to start checking it out,I will start with the switches and see if they are unplugged (I had the bezel off last year to change a bulb) but I don't think they are where to check next? Thanks in advance.
Glenn
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 125
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Is there any noise at all when you push the button? Does the anometer move? Is there a clicking sound coming from the passenger side kick panel? The electric motors are prone to go out if not used regularly, or so I hear.
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 9,182
Likes: 12
From: Gateway to the West
I would suggest a search of this forum using the keyword "shift motor". This is a common topic and unfortunately one that most everyone with any electronic Borg-Warner 13xx series T-case will eventually have to deal with. Sticky shift components inside and shift motors with "dead spots" are the most common reason for the problem.
I decided against my original (and first) thought when I read the title of this thread because recently some of the newer folks here cannot recognize sarcasm. But here is what first came to mind when I saw this thread...
"Replace the shift motor two or three times. Get fed up with it and decide to swap to a manual version of the t-case. Realize that you can't just make an electric one a manual without completely replacing major parts of it. Resign yourself to digging up a used manual version after replacing the shift motor about four more times. Finally find a manual BW 1356 t-case and swap it in. Sit down and calculate the cost of six or eight replacement shift motors, your time, and the cost of a used t-case. Come to the astounding realization that if you had just bit the bullet in the first place you could have put an Atlas twin-stick t-case in there for the money and time you have spent over the past couple years trying to keep your 4WD working."
I decided against my original (and first) thought when I read the title of this thread because recently some of the newer folks here cannot recognize sarcasm. But here is what first came to mind when I saw this thread...
"Replace the shift motor two or three times. Get fed up with it and decide to swap to a manual version of the t-case. Realize that you can't just make an electric one a manual without completely replacing major parts of it. Resign yourself to digging up a used manual version after replacing the shift motor about four more times. Finally find a manual BW 1356 t-case and swap it in. Sit down and calculate the cost of six or eight replacement shift motors, your time, and the cost of a used t-case. Come to the astounding realization that if you had just bit the bullet in the first place you could have put an Atlas twin-stick t-case in there for the money and time you have spent over the past couple years trying to keep your 4WD working."
Thread Starter
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 1,413
Likes: 14
From: cape may county NJ
I am not getting any sound from the relay behind the kick panel and I have no lights at the switch ,didn't get to it yesterday had to help my brother fix his pos chevy
so he can get to work.It is going to warm up in the next couple of days so I will check it out more..
If the shift motor were stuck would it cause me to have no power to the switch and wouldn't I still here the relay energize and click, it makes no sounds at all .There can't be much wrong as this is low mileage and under the truck looks like it did when it was new clean! No reason to change to a manual transfer case because of this,which seems to be everybodys answer when someone has any problems at all with the push button 4x4,if I was wheeling it hard core I would but since this truck will never be beaten off road(to much money in it for that) I need to fix what I got.Thanks again.
Glenn
so he can get to work.It is going to warm up in the next couple of days so I will check it out more..If the shift motor were stuck would it cause me to have no power to the switch and wouldn't I still here the relay energize and click, it makes no sounds at all .There can't be much wrong as this is low mileage and under the truck looks like it did when it was new clean! No reason to change to a manual transfer case because of this,which seems to be everybodys answer when someone has any problems at all with the push button 4x4,if I was wheeling it hard core I would but since this truck will never be beaten off road(to much money in it for that) I need to fix what I got.Thanks again.
Glenn
Last edited by GlennFordx4; Feb 5, 2009 at 09:11 AM. Reason: added words info/spelling
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Lead Driver
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 7,958
Likes: 592
From: Greater Austin, Texas
Let me just say that my SAE Bronco, with 250K miles, has it's original shift motor in place and it works. I have taken it apart twice and cleaned up the armature with sandpaper for the "dead spots" but it always works again when I do this. I have had this truck since 1993 so 2 motor repairs is not too bad.
However, when the motor does get stuck, I get the clicking from the right-side kick panel, so I don't think that is your problem.
However, when the motor does get stuck, I get the clicking from the right-side kick panel, so I don't think that is your problem.
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Thread Starter
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jan 2005
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From: cape may county NJ
I just ordered a factory electrical manual and will wait till it gets here to jump in and test everything,although I will see if the plug behind my bezel is tightly plugged in and same for the stuff behind the kick panel(its already half off after resetting fuel pump shut off) it is going to be in the 60's on sat so I will start then,thanks.
Glenn
Glenn
Junior User
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 95
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I have had my shifter quite completly like yours,no shifting,no clicking.Surprisingly just loosening the three mounting bolts and moving it around has got it going.Your motor may need to be cleaned.Not using it is probably harder on it than continous use.It may be oxydized between brushes and armature.Most of the time it just wants a little attention.
Tuned
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 423
Likes: 8
fullsizebronco.com has a lot of info about this also.
Mine recently quit too, but it was making the clicking noises. I took my shifter motor apart, and the little plastic stop was dissintegrated. If you google search also, you'll find some excellent write-ups with photos on the procedure on diagnosing it. I got 4HI back, and am still trying to figure out why 4LO still won't work. Heven't been trying that hard though. I was just happy to be able to get around in the foot of snow we've had here.
Mine recently quit too, but it was making the clicking noises. I took my shifter motor apart, and the little plastic stop was dissintegrated. If you google search also, you'll find some excellent write-ups with photos on the procedure on diagnosing it. I got 4HI back, and am still trying to figure out why 4LO still won't work. Heven't been trying that hard though. I was just happy to be able to get around in the foot of snow we've had here.
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