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I'm going to be changing the injectors on my neighbor's '99 this next week. I've found a couple of write ups on here that gave me most of the information I was looking for (about torque specs and any special tools I would need).
But, I was wondering if anyone had pictures or a description of where the oil and fuel plugs were located for draining the passages. Any other tips or advice would also be appreciated.
I don't have time to check JD's links. Go to Swamps' site, they have a good writup on swapping injectors. Diesel Innovatoins does to, but I follwed Swamps. Check the torque on your rockers, and make sure you have the right socket to remove your GPs or it can be a bear.
pull the injectors out, and let the oil flow into the cylinder. Use a mity vac or something to get the oil out of the cylinder, and then remove the glow plugs because you're not get it all out. Look at each injector tip to make sure the copper washer came with it, if not, that would suck. Use a rag over a screw driver to clean out each bore, and then dip the injector with the o-rings in a cup of oil, and then let it drain. Stick them in while holding up on the hold down collar. Then smack it with the side of your hand to seat it. rubber mallet until you get the dead sound, you'll know when it's seated. crank down on that bolt with no larger than a 1/4" ratchet, give her hell. Then smack the head a few more times, and retighten the bolts as needed.
I agree on giving them hell with a 1/4 inch drive ratchet. I remember seeing Dave from swamps saying most often he had seen injector problems, down the road, was from when the installer said they used a torque wrench, and put them to spec. Dave reccomended making them nearly as tight as you could with a standard length 1/4 inch drive ratchet.
I agree on giving them hell with a 1/4 inch drive ratchet. I remember seeing Dave from swamps saying most often he had seen injector problems, down the road, was from when the installer said they used a torque wrench, and put them to spec. Dave reccomended making them nearly as tight as you could with a standard length 1/4 inch drive ratchet.
Sounds like a recipe for cracked injector cups to me.
I would never do that myself, but rather in 1000 miles pull the VC's and simply retorque to make sure.
I did that on my truck and they needed very little resetting to get the proper spec.
I first torqued them with the torque wrench, then used the 1/4 drive ratchet method. Now Im a pretty big dude, so I didnt end up giving it all I had, but it ended up turning about a 1/4 - 3/8 turn more. That was the point that "felt" right to me. Now Im not engineer, and my hand isnt quite a torque wrench, so I cant really explain why it "felt" right. But it did. I also figure someone like Swamps, has done enough injector swaps, and has enough of a reputation to uphold, that they wouldnt have said that, unless it seemed safe enough to pass on. But thats just my oppinion. Driving a 1000 or so miles, and a retorque would quite possibly be a safer bet.
pull the injectors out, and let the oil flow into the cylinder. Use a mity vac or something to get the oil out of the cylinder, and then remove the glow plugs because you're not get it all out. Look at each injector tip to make sure the copper washer came with it, if not, that would suck. Use a rag over a screw driver to clean out each bore, and then dip the injector with the o-rings in a cup of oil, and then let it drain. Stick them in while holding up on the hold down collar. Then smack it with the side of your hand to seat it. rubber mallet until you get the dead sound, you'll know when it's seated. crank down on that bolt with no larger than a 1/4" ratchet, give her hell. Then smack the head a few more times, and retighten the bolts as needed.
If you are just replacing one injector will any oil/diesel that gets in be isolated to that cylinder? Should you disconnect say the idm relay so it won't fire and then crank it over with the glow plug out?
If you are just replacing one injector will any oil/diesel that gets in be isolated to that cylinder? Should you disconnect say the idm relay so it won't fire and then crank it over with the glow plug out?
Yes, only the cylinder you are working on.
I would turn it 'by hand' with socket and ratchet at the crank. Spinning it will blow out the fluid with alot of force.
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