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Surging at light throttle and low RPM

 
  #31  
Old 08-17-2009, 11:18 PM
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K&N Filter

As far as I can tell, the only problem with the turbo was the oil leak at the bearings. With 225,000 miles, I cannot complain. The oil consumption was not enough to detect, but there was residue in the air tubes.

BTW, the surging is still there, although not as prominent as before. It occurs only when the engine lugs, like 40-45 mph in OD. Its reminds me of driving a stick in too high a gear. Light throttle and it bucks. I tried locking out the OD, forcing the rpms up a few hundred and it seems to go away, until I let it upshift again. Changing the Tune up to Tow, rather than Race, does not appear to have killed the preformance much, but there is noticeably less Black haze under acceleration. I will check the MPG on the trip to Buffalo and see how it feels. It only takes a few minutes to change the program.
 
  #32  
Old 08-23-2009, 10:41 PM
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Unhappy STILL Surging

Put over 1500 miles on the new turbo. I still have this surging or maybe I should call it stuttering. Away from a red light, unless you put it on the mat, it does this multiple stutter before actually pulling smoothly. On the gear change to 3rd or OD, it acts like I let up on the throttle, unless I have it matted. At times while cruising at say 70/ 2000 rpm, it cuts out almost like a shorted wire momentarily touching ground(?). The fuel filter has been changed, and I tried a bottle of Lucas injector cleaner, 350 miles before I got home. Also, tried backing off the Edge programmer's program from the race setting to towing before leaving on the trip. Doesn't seem to help with the surging thing.

Good news is I got 19.7 highway on the way north, 18.4 around city streets and some expressway driving and 19.1 overall for the entire 1500 miles. I am happy with that kind of mileage, especially since I am not too light on the pedal.
 
  #33  
Old 08-24-2009, 11:37 AM
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Clark,

I have been dealing with this problem for over a year. The culprit I found was burned spots in the throttle sensor. I am now waiting on a new pedal assembly to see if the problem goes away. What I had was a stumble (1300 to 1900), then a surge. Also, there was a lack of power. At the Tenn Event, I swapped a pedal with Scott and noticed the change immediately. The only problem is that the "Go Pedal" is on National Back Order. Can't get the damn thing.
 
  #34  
Old 08-24-2009, 12:42 PM
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You may be on to something

Paul, That makes sense. I wonder if any of the vendors on this site stock the pedal assembly? If it had a manual linkage, this sort of thing would not happen, but with drive by wire...
I have seen "flat spots" in potentiometers in other electronic and power equipment. It is pretty common. Sometimes it involves a little corrosion. The quick fix was to shut off the equipment and run the pot from end to end a few times to wipe the winding. As much as we pump the throttle normally, this would probably not do any good. Maybe a squirt of 2-26 or some other contact cleaner?
 
  #35  
Old 08-24-2009, 06:51 PM
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Hey Paul, be sure to let us know if the new go petal fixes this surge we all seem to having. Kinda makes sense being as these trucks cruise at that rpm alot. Ryan
 
  #36  
Old 08-24-2009, 08:08 PM
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Just as soon as I can get my hands on one I will know for sure. The test that I did with the borrowed one at the Tenn Party seemed to fix it. None of our sponsors has one. I am having to revert and call in a favor at a stealership that I have been doing parts business for years. Damn thing is going to cost about $180.00. If Ed had it, it would be around $140 with shipping. Dealers are like bankers and politicians, damn bunch of crooks. Opps, I forgot one, those bottom dwelling lawyers. LOL
 
  #37  
Old 08-24-2009, 08:35 PM
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Something I saved:

You need to put a voltmeter across the GY/W and the GY/R wires on the connector to the TPS. With the key on, watch the voltage across the range of the throttle to see if there is any flat spots. You should see no less than .37 volts at idle position and no more than 4.5 volts at full throttle. The the third wire, (BRN/W), is the ref. voltage and should be 5 volts all the time.
 
  #38  
Old 08-24-2009, 10:05 PM
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Thumbs up

As soon as I get a moment, I will test my pedal as well. Thanks for the simple test procedure. Now, if someone would point me to the common item causing all 4 even numbered glow plug codes to keep recurring, I would be really happy.
 
  #39  
Old 08-24-2009, 10:18 PM
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My vote is the GPCM if the glow plugs ohm'd out ok. I did a simple Google search and saw this thread: http://www.powerstroke.org/forum/99-...r-codes-2.html
 
  #40  
Old 08-24-2009, 11:15 PM
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Smile

Seems simple enough. That link was a good one. they explained pretty well where the problem might be. Thanks, again.
 
  #41  
Old 08-24-2009, 11:48 PM
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I found this as well:

Thank you for your question. You have a bad glow plug control module and or glow plugs. You can check the resistance of the glow plugs each one should have less than 1 ohm resistance. Any with more than 1ohm resistance will need replaced. Below is a service bulliten that may be applicable to your truck.

TSB 04-25-4

12/27/04

HARD START OR NO START - 7.3L

FORD:
2000-2003 E-Series, Excursion, F-Super Duty




Attachments are only available to registered users.

Register Here

This article supersedes TSB 04-22-8 to update Figure 1.

ISSUE
Some 7.3L vehicles equipped with the glow plug control module (GPCM), may exhibit a hard start or no start condition. This may be due to the GPCM connector.

ACTION
A new GPCM connector service kit, available for the 6.0L engine, can now be adapted to the 7.3L engine. Refer to the following Service Procedure.

SERVICE PROCEDURE

1. Inspect the GPCM connector for pin conditions such as; pin fit, pull out, bent, corrosion, etc.

a. If a concern is found, replace the GPCM connector with the kit. The kit contains a replacement connector with pigtail to be spliced into the existing harness.
DISREGARD THE INSTRUCTIONS INCLUDED IN THE KIT (WHICH ONLY APPLY TO 6.0L) AND REFER TO FIGURE 1 FOR WIRE SPLICING.

b. If no concerns are present, proceed with normal diagnosis.

Read more: http://www.justanswer.com/questions/...#ixzz0PAO5BNQW
 
  #42  
Old 09-05-2009, 08:57 AM
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Well Ed (thepartsguy) came through for me. Found me a pedal, and it is on the way. Best thing is that he did not screw me like that dealer attempted to do in Knoxville, TN. Ed charged me $145 including shipping. That *** in Knoxville wanted $400. The truck would sit before I would pay that for it.

Once I get it in, I will let you know if it has solved the problem.
 
  #43  
Old 09-08-2009, 10:18 AM
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I got my "Go Pedal" today. I will install it tonight and see if there is a difference and then let ya know!
 
  #44  
Old 09-17-2009, 12:03 PM
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Pedal is in and have driven it a few times. I cannot believe it. I do believe that that damn stumble and surge is gone. It is still lacking on power. I think I am now going to unhook the batteries and let it sit overnight and screw with the computer. Let it have to learn all over again. Maybe that will finish straightening it out.
 
  #45  
Old 01-05-2010, 02:51 AM
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Well, I found a black cam sensor to try before I changed the injectors. The miss seemed to go away. Well, the throttle seemed more smooth throughout the range and wasn't so jumpy around the 1000 rpm range.

Fast forward 4 months and the miss is back. Now, it seems like it is worse. I can hold the truck at 3000 rpms and it's a smooth as glass. When I hold it at 1300, it won't stay there. It jumps up and down about 100 rpms. Driving home tonight in overdrive about 45 miles an hour, it started doing it also. Enough of a surge or miss to feel it in the pants and change the speed a mile or so an hour. My passenger felt it, who isn't automotive savy. I e-mailed Jody and he said it might be the ICP. I was told to unhook it and drive it to see what happens. Is this bad to do for very long?

This is really getting ridiculous. I might throw in the second black cam sensor I bought and see what happens. Maybe the one I bought is going out. Who knows. Changed the fuel filter last night. Kinda dirty. The fuel bowl had a small layer of crud in the bottom of it. I cleaned it all out. The only other thing I was thinking is the throttle pedal, but it seems like the up and down jumpy throttle response wouldn't be from a bad pedal.

Any thoughts would be appreciated. Sorry to dig this thread up, but some had responded to me so I thought I'd just fill in where I left off.

Thanks in advance,
Ryan
 

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