youtube and webshots have a bunch of vids and picts...

 

I wanted to talk to someone mono el mono about the swap.

 

I hear ya... I was lucky to have had the chance to see two swaps in person and talk to guys who had done them... It's not enough to look at picts and read forum threads over the internet...

 

Hey, you're lucky. I rarely get the chance to talk to people that I see with interesting rides. There's a Ranger that used to run around town that I am 89% sure has a V8 in it. I would love to talk to them about that.

 

lol i like the cummis but the psd is awsome

 

yessir,, a built c6 can handle any thing you throw at it,, for sure,,

 

Bringing up an old thread!!!

I have been doing this research also for 6-8 months now. My truck is a 97' 250 (will have a d60 before swap)

With 3.55 gears,zf5 tranny, reg cab long box. want to do 1st or 2nd gen ctd.

Who has done one with a gas? let alone a small block.
having to deal with fuel issues, exhaust, tranny almost doesnt seem worth it but I love my truck and think this swap would be so cool.

if i keep it gas, im going to regear it with selectable lockers anyway (running 35-37s)
so thats a big chunk out of a swap.

anyone have any tips tricks hidden knowledge?? Thanks!!

 

Small block trans will Not work. Look up fordcummins .com

 

Ford offered the 5.9 C6 combo in some of the medium duty trucks years ago, and I have seen one Fummins with a C6 and gear vendors, the owner will probably chime in on this thread.
The E4OD is a great transmission, once you spend some hefty coin in upgrades, and then can handle a Cummins with no problem.

As to the out put ratio question, the C6 has a 1:1 ratio, the E4OD is 0.72:1 (IIRC) the ZF5 is 0.76, 0.77, or 0.78:1 depending on model and gas or diesel, the NV4500 is 0.73:1...

The ZF S5-47 can handle the torque of a Cummins and doesn't have that nut backing off like the NV does.

 

I know that brad. Like ive said been doing lots of research. Destroked offers an adaptor and flexplate for the smallblock IIRC. But thats an easy junkyard find. Just going to be my daily driver. Hauling a camper or horse trailer at most (which the truck handles fine as is) looking for more performance and mpg instead of regearing. I assume i can use the same fuel system (new sending units) Just loooking for additional info/tips. Thanks!

 

Do it. I've had two, best modification I've done to any vehicle. If you are going with the ZF5, I would not worry about durability unless you are going for high power. I've had the same ZF5-42 (German build) in both trucks, now well over 350k happy miles on the transmission. The NV4500 has around the same input torque rating, both are the top light truck transmission you can use. Some say the cast iron case of the NV4500 is better, I tend to agree, but if you are going for high power ditch both as they were not designed for that kind of input. If I ever decide to TT the quad cab, I will be hunting for a Fuller. There were some 7 or 8 speed OD transmissions used in medium trucks with SAE bell housings that are great for this application. Divorced t-case is a must, but for the increased longevity and piece of mind I'd suggest that route.

I chose the German built ZF-42 for simplicity, and cost. The German cast case seems to hold up better than the US version, look around in my photos for the ZF5-47 US build I pulled out of the PowerStroke when I was doing the swap. Bell housing was broken clean off. It is much easier to find the ZF-5 for ~600 where the NV4500 are highly sought after and fetch ~1000 in need of work, usually the ticking time bomb 5th gear issue has not been addressed. If using the ZF5 try and stick with the diesel transmission, as the gas models have less desirable gearing, not to mention everyone with a gasoline engine wants one to swap out their tired E40D. I used the Destroked plate, and have been very happy with their products.

As far as installation goes, I did the crew cab in 1 week. Some of those days were two people working till 5AM kind of days... but it isn't terrible. If you take your time and do everything right you won't have to go back and fix stuff 90k later...

Given my experience with the above setup, here is what I am going back in to fix this summer:

Flywheel/clutch - Do it right, do not use a pilot bushing. You will get noise from the clutch. I also used the stock ford disc with the dodge flywheel. It's been fine and lasted through the first body, but really has never felt solid. This time I'm having the flywheel machined out to fit a proper bearing which will accept the zf5 input shaft, rather than the special pilot bushing. For the clutch, going with a custom from SBC.

Throttle/shutoff assembly - When I got this engine, it was stripped. I went to Bosch and got a random assortment of levers for the throttle and shutoff, and built a half assed frame to hold a gas ford throttle cable on the lever. Also used a pull cable for the shutoff. While this has worked, it does not provide the correct reduction and throttle response as expected, instead, its very sensitive. Having a shutdown level is huge PITA when you take your truck in for tires when they can't turn it off with out you showing them how. Only benefit is if anyone tries to start it they have no idea why it won't start... To correct it I have to buy over $400 in parts to get everything needed to be 'correct'. No junkyard or person parting their truck has wanted to separate these parts from the complete engine. Lesson: Build it right the first time, or better yet make sure it is there when you buy it.

Radiator - I used the all metal radiator from the early diesel trucks. Do this, if you ever have a hole it is easily brazed. One small lesson learned, build the electric fan mounting very well. I used the metal straps that came with the fan, after a day of hard play in the forest it punched quite a few holes in the radiator. I'm going to have to build a much more sturdy framework for the fans when I have it all apart.

ProTip: Most of the guys I have seen push the engine as far back as they can. I did the opposite, used the slimmest electric cooling fan I could find and held it forward, clearance of the fan to original fan pulley is within ~2 cm. Makes it much easier to clear the heat/ac box if you don't want to flip the manifold, and you will pat yourself on the back when you have to pull the head. Getting the last pushrods in is still a PITA, but possible this way. I have 1 pusher and 1 puller fan on the front. I still have yet to test this out with AC, as I've never hooked it up, but given this thing never gets hot at all I'm betting it will be ok.

Only other bits I can think of that you will have to 'deal' with are the PS hose, has to be custom made, I had a hydraulic make one with a dodge and ford end. Some guys weld on -6 fittings on each side so they can use any hose when it wears out. I like that idea, especially since mine is leaking and I need to have a shop make a new one. Use the dodge alternator with a old ford voltage regulator, search, done many times. The lower radiator hose will need to be made, look at my pictures for reference. Engine mounts are easy if you have some scrap and are a halfway decent welder. Gages, use ford senders and hook them up. Destroked sells a tach kit that is easy and works well with the diesel cluster.

If you are doing a gas - diesel conversion, make damn sure you won't run into any issues down the road with emissions or registration. I saw a post somewhere where the guy ran the stock gas fuel pumps with a bypass regulator with no issue.. not sure how long this would last since diesel is much heavier than gas... Other than that the frames are the same.

Ok, time for some sleep, hope that gets you in the conversion mood

 

Your a good man!!!! Thank you for all that info. My plan is to buy a complete dodge truck ( can find them for cheaper than dana60s somethings :s) with a cummins and 5 spd. That way if i need any parts no poblems. Im sure ill eventually have to just call the guys at destroked And chat with them until then, ill be hunting for junkyard finds!!!

I think im going to buy a set of mounts too. Just to be safe an have the motor in the correct spot.

I get four weeks holidays this winter! I better start getting parts now!

 

i too have been looking into the swap for a friend of mine, personally i was talking him into the 12v but using the 6 spd std as uposed to the 5 spd, me being a cummins owner myself and being traped in a dodge ive also thought of doing the same thing with my94 ford. the swap as goodboy said is relitively easy, it is alot of time and money but is worth it in the end, another thing to toss into your head is buddy has been talking about taking a 24v and putting a p pump (mechanical fuel pump off the 12 valve) onto it,