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I had 3 of them in a row spring a hole in the canister part on my moms 1989 Thunderbird. All of the filters had less than 1000 miles on them. I'm done with them and now only use Motorcraft brand filters.
That's weird. The normally-aspirated V6?
I had one spring a hole in my stepson's '89 Taurus. But then, the power steering line that was rubbing against it had more to do with that then quality
heres the fram recall<TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=5 width="90%" border=0><TBODY><TR><TD class=pressReleaseCopy vAlign=top width=*></TD></TR><TR><TD class=pressReleaseCopy vAlign=top>A:</TD><TD class=pressReleaseCopy vAlign=top>Only the FRAM Racing oil filters HP4 and HP8 that were manufactured from May 25, 2006 through September 14, 2007. These oil filters can be identified by date code: A61451 through A72571 sequentially.</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
still a very good filter
I use nothing but Purolater filters on my truck, wifes sport trac, dads truck and my brother uses them on his truck and GF car. Motorcraft used to be made by Purolater, but I think since this article was written has since changed. Never had any issues with Purolater filters. K&N arnt worth what you have to pay for them.
heres the fram recall<TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=5 width="90%" border=0><TBODY><TR><TD class=pressReleaseCopy vAlign=top width=*></TD></TR><TR><TD class=pressReleaseCopy vAlign=top>A:</TD><TD class=pressReleaseCopy vAlign=top>Only the FRAM Racing oil filters HP4 and HP8 that were manufactured from May 25, 2006 through September 14, 2007. These oil filters can be identified by date code: A61451 through A72571 sequentially.</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
still a very good filter
That's the ones I was talking about, some of the "HP" models were effected.
I am partial to NAPA Gold filters, including, oil, air, and fuel filters. Don't get the Silver, just the Gold, which for the V-10 is a # 1372, and is about $7.00. Here is another oil filter study done that most of you have seen:Oil Filters Revealed - MiniMopar Resources. This has some good reference material in it.
This is a good reason to stay clear of crappy fram filters
" Fram
While Fram has been around since 1934, Honeywell (formerly Allied-Signal, formerly Bendix) has been manufacturing Fram filters since they bought-out the company in 1967. While I don't know when they started making them like this, I suspect it has been for many decades. See this 1999 email from an Allied Signal production engineer. Also see episode 41 of the TV show "How It's Made" for a look at the production line for these filters. Fram filters are sold pretty much anywhere oil filters are sold. Fram Extra Guard PH8A
This filter cartridge has a small outside diameter with a rather low filter element surface area (193 sqin), and features cardboard end caps that are bonded in place using a thermal adhesive. The rubber anti-drainback valve seals the rough metal backplate to the cardboard end cap. In practice these seem to leak, causing dirty oil to drain back into the pan. If you use this filter and have a noisy valve train at startup, the filter is likely the cause. The bypass valves are plastic and are sometimes not molded correctly, which allows them to leak when they should be closed. The backplate has smaller and fewer oil inlet holes, which may restrict flow."
Yep, N/A V-6 in an LX. Nothing around it to rub on it. Now I am gun shy of Fram filters for oil. Still run them for air filters.
Steve S.
To many to list.
Originally Posted by krewat
That's weird. The normally-aspirated V6?
I had one spring a hole in my stepson's '89 Taurus. But then, the power steering line that was rubbing against it had more to do with that then quality
I am partial to NAPA Gold filters, including, oil, air, and fuel filters. Don't get the Silver, just the Gold, which for the V-10 is a # 1372, and is about $7.00. Here is another oil filter study done that most of you have seen:Oil Filters Revealed - MiniMopar Resources. This has some good reference material in it.
I quit using Fram years ago. Currently I run Mobile-1 oil in my truck and Cadillac and use Mobile-1 filters in both. I just can't get over the glued-on cardboard end caps Fram uses. I prefer metal. Quality oil and quality filters are cheap insurance.
I just can't get over the glued-on cardboard end caps Fram uses.
I'd rather they be glued to SOMETHING than allowed to implode under pressure. I believe no matter what, they are glued to something, cardboard or metal, the glue can still fail.
I have been using Fram filters for 20 years on all our vehicles with no problems. Why would Frams application guide list a PH2 for my V10 and for the wifes 5.4? Also everytime I remove a Fram there seems to be plenty of oil in it that needs to be drained? I may be changing my filter choice after reading this.
I have been using Fram filters for 20 years on all our vehicles with no problems. Why would Frams application guide list a PH2 for my V10 and for the wifes 5.4? Also everytime I remove a Fram there seems to be plenty of oil in it that needs to be drained? I may be changing my filter choice after reading this.
That I do not know. I've used regular PH2's on both of my 4.6L's, and the V10, but after realizing Ford called for the silicone anti-drainback valve, I go with the TG2/XG2. Never had a problem with drainback, that's for sure...
also, the filter media used in frams is absolute crap, i stay safe, and go a little more expensive with the motorcraft. great filter for a reasonable price. the oil in my focus has came out a little cleaner at oil changes just from the filter change.
The secret to my success over the years has been sticking with the factory recommended filters and oils. I get the oil and filters straight from the FOrd dealer. Well, I have my parts department order and get them for me and then my service department does the work. We use the factory semi-synthetic oil with the motorcraft filter. Nice and easy.
How about changing to K&N CAI? Good idea? increase intereior noise, help MPG? Any downside?