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95 F150 stutters b/t 1100 & 1400 RPM

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Old 01-04-2009, 06:17 PM
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95 F150 stutters b/t 1100 & 1400 RPM

I promise I searched the term "stutter"...maybe I'm not searching the right term...

95 F150 4.9. Idles smooth but start applying the gas and it stutters between 1100 & 1400 rpm. Above 1400 or so it seems to smooth back out.

I recently had an EGR code (I believe), so I removed it, cleaned it, reinstalled and after a few drives the check engine light stopped coming on. While reading the EGR posts, Do I remember seeing that the stutter might be connected to the EGR issue? maybe not?

Thanks guys...ya'll have really helped me out on several issues!
 
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Old 01-04-2009, 06:21 PM
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Check your tubes coming off your TB, make sure their not torn and seated properly on the TB. Also it could be the air idle bypass valve or throttle position sensor
 
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Old 01-04-2009, 09:59 PM
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I seem to remember discussions of an off-idle stumble being EGR related on the 300 six as well. Has the EGR code come back since you cleaned the valve?
 
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Old 01-05-2009, 08:13 AM
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Originally Posted by EPNCSU2006
I seem to remember discussions of an off-idle stumble being EGR related on the 300 six as well. Has the EGR code come back since you cleaned the valve?
Well, I'm not sure about the actual code....the check engine light went off.... but I don't have a code reader. I think I'm going to get one tonight though. Maybe it will show if it's EGR or the other items listed above.

Thanks for the relpys....keep'em coming
 
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Old 01-05-2009, 08:25 AM
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I don't believe you'll get a code unless the engine light is on, if you cleaned the EGR and the light went out but you're still having the same problem It's not the EGR. It could be what I listed in a previous post or a vacuum line somewhere.
 
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Old 01-05-2009, 08:27 AM
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A code reader is handy but if you don`t have one click on the "tech info" link at the top of this forum page (beside the red writing) and then click on OBD1 codes. It will tell you how to pull the codes with a paper clip.
 
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Old 01-05-2009, 04:37 PM
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Lazy K is right, you don't need a code reader to get the codes. It is possible for codes to be stored and for the check engine light to stay off.
 
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Old 01-05-2009, 08:41 PM
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OK guys...thanks for hanging in there. I went out tonight to read the codes by the method you described, not sure if I got the codes right though...argh!

The first time I read them I think I got: 15 39 53 9 which doesn't make sense. Maybe the 1 means nothing and it is really 539 539. When I look that code up in the KOEO column it says the defrost is on or something...which it wasn't...weird. Then it went to the CM code which is 332 332 I'm pretty sure....which means EGR valve...argh again!

So I waited 15 seconds to run the test again but it didn't do the same sequence of blinks. Makes me think it won't give me those first set of codes again?? ANyways, I recorded the 2nd test (after waiting about 5 minutes) and this is what I got:

check engine

what do you think?? remember...what you see in the video is AFTER the first test. I wonder how long it will take before I can get those "first run" codes again?
 
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Old 01-05-2009, 11:48 PM
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How long ago was your EGR stuck? You might clear the codes and take her for a drive and retest.

332 looks good to me though. It could be that your EVP (EGR valve Position) sensor is not registering the EGR opening and it is causing the rough idle. I would check this out first since EGR valves are not cheap. You can test the EGR is opening with a vacuum pump and the engine at idle. Appling vacuum to the tube thats on it and the engine should stumble. You should hear it open as well.
 
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Old 01-06-2009, 04:52 AM
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EEC IV Self Test hookup
I think this site has one of the best diagrams for counting the flashes.
 
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