anyone used Rust-Oleum roll-on
#1
#2
I painted my F6 frame with rustoleum. I actually shot it and didn't brush or roll it.
The only problem with rustoleum is that it takes a long time to harden. If using rustoleum, mix some hardner with it. Don't be afraid to put a lot of hardner in it.
Now I don't know how long it will last exposed to the sun.
The only problem with rustoleum is that it takes a long time to harden. If using rustoleum, mix some hardner with it. Don't be afraid to put a lot of hardner in it.
Now I don't know how long it will last exposed to the sun.
#3
#4
If you recoat while it's wet, you are fine. And, as mentioned it takes quite a while to harden up - has alot of zinc and fish oil in it to make it work.
If you try to recoat it after 45 minutes and under the 7 days, I guarantee it will blister the previous coat.
Most Rustoluem products are made for exterior applications - that's where rust happens. But since they have started expanding their product line some, you might want to check the label, it will normally tell you if it's for interior use only.
Happy New Year,
Julie!
#5
I also used Rustoleum Hammered to paint my frame and under my cab. I do not have it on the road yet, so I honestly can't tell you how well it will hold up with road rash...I can tell you that my clumsy butt has dropped a wrench or two on it and it didn't even leave a mark! I have also heard of 4x4 guys using hammered as a topside paint because it is tough against scratches, etc...plus it is easy to touchup...
Also, I know that regular Rustoleum has been tested as a topside paint with success. Both rolled and brushed on..I am seriously considering using it on mine..keep me posted if you decide to go this route, and I'll do the same!
scr8pin
Also, I know that regular Rustoleum has been tested as a topside paint with success. Both rolled and brushed on..I am seriously considering using it on mine..keep me posted if you decide to go this route, and I'll do the same!
scr8pin
#6
#7
I personally don't like Rustoleum because of the long dry time. I also don't think it's all that durable, but that's just my personal opinion. I prefer ValSpar paint. ValSpar paint dries a lot faster than Rustoleum and, to me, seems to be a lot more durable. I spray quite a few parts for jobs I do in my business and if I can use a generic color that I get off the shelf from Valspar I use it. If I need a custom color I go to the paint store, have them match the color and then add ValSpar oil paint hardener to it. It works great, lays nice and smooth and dries fast, usually I can handle it in about 4-5 hours.
I am planning to spray my F-4 with ValSpar tractor restorer paint I can get at my local farm supply store. I've been using their general paint for a long time and I figure their tractor paint has to be a better product that is specifically made for exterior use on a vehicle. The range of color for the tractor paint offered at the farm supply store is limited to tractor colors but the MF red tractor color is almost identical to the color I have on my F-2. The tractor paint, with hardener and reducer is under a $100, while the urethane automotive paint I used on my F-2 goes for around $50 a pint, just for the paint.
I am planning to spray my F-4 with ValSpar tractor restorer paint I can get at my local farm supply store. I've been using their general paint for a long time and I figure their tractor paint has to be a better product that is specifically made for exterior use on a vehicle. The range of color for the tractor paint offered at the farm supply store is limited to tractor colors but the MF red tractor color is almost identical to the color I have on my F-2. The tractor paint, with hardener and reducer is under a $100, while the urethane automotive paint I used on my F-2 goes for around $50 a pint, just for the paint.
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#8
I put Rust Oleum hammered on the back bumper of my 95 F150 daily driver. It seems to be a tough paint. I haul everything from gravel to firewood to coal and it hasn't been a problem after 4 years. The bumber may be rusting thru from the inside due to the great salt flats that I drive thru every day in the winter but the paint looks good.
That tractor paint is real tough. It's true that you have to wait longer but it's worth it in my view!
That tractor paint is real tough. It's true that you have to wait longer but it's worth it in my view!
#9
Paint thinners
Rustolium works well for protecting and refinishing our old trucks. In our shop we paint a lot of farm and heavy equipment using rustolium and valspar paints. The tractor supply truck and tractor refinishing paints also are very good, same as valspar. Always use the hardner it helps dry time. With the rustolium we use acetone for a reducer, it dries much quicker. With the valspar I have used naptha , acetone , acrylic enamel reducer, all with good results. If you use mineral spirits with rustolium it will take forever to dry. The faster evaporating reducers work much better. Valspar hardeners work ok in rustolium, you can use any synthetic enamel hardener with either brand . On useing the valspar hardener I use double the amount called for. It makes for a smooth slick finish that is durable and shines like crazy.
Have A Good Day------Hotwrench
Have A Good Day------Hotwrench
#10
The only concern I would have using a strong, fast drying reducer is if I was repainting something that had a non factory finish. I worked in the auto body industry for quite a few years. The first place I worked was a small shop and one of the tricks the owner used was to thin acrylic enamel with laquer thinner. Since laquer thinner evaporates very quickly the paint would dry very fast. It worked OK but the paint would dry a little duller than if we used the correct the reducer. The one thing we had to be careful about was to make sure the underlying finish could handle the laquer thinner. We could do this over a factory baked finish but on a few occations we didn't realize the panel we worked on had been previously repainted and when we sprayed our first coat laquer thinner thinned paint on the panel the paint lifted, not very pretty and a lot of work to fix.
I look on the side of the can of paint I am using see the list of chemicals in the paint. Usually whatever chemical listed on the side of the can is safe to use to thin the paint. But again, if the part was previously painted with an inferior paint the better paint still might lift the old paint.
I've also used hammertone paint from a spray can and it holds up very well.
I look on the side of the can of paint I am using see the list of chemicals in the paint. Usually whatever chemical listed on the side of the can is safe to use to thin the paint. But again, if the part was previously painted with an inferior paint the better paint still might lift the old paint.
I've also used hammertone paint from a spray can and it holds up very well.
#12
One more thing I would like to add to this discussion, and I know it's been mentioned every time the subject of painting is brought up but I think it's worth mentioning.
If you do add a paint hardener to the oil based paint, you have to use a good respirator. You should use one even when using straight oil based paint like Rustoleum but when you add a hardener you're basically adding super glue to the paint and when you get that stuff in your lung you'll be lucky if all you experience is some difficulty in breather. I learned the hard way when I helped with the first paint job in the first shop I worked in. We painted a truck nose on a Saturday morning around 9am. After the boss finished the last coat he removed his respirator, I copied. By 2pm that afternoon I could hardly breath and started coughing up blood. It finally cleared up by the next morning but I learned a very quick lesson.
If you do add a paint hardener to the oil based paint, you have to use a good respirator. You should use one even when using straight oil based paint like Rustoleum but when you add a hardener you're basically adding super glue to the paint and when you get that stuff in your lung you'll be lucky if all you experience is some difficulty in breather. I learned the hard way when I helped with the first paint job in the first shop I worked in. We painted a truck nose on a Saturday morning around 9am. After the boss finished the last coat he removed his respirator, I copied. By 2pm that afternoon I could hardly breath and started coughing up blood. It finally cleared up by the next morning but I learned a very quick lesson.
#14
up here in canada we have "Rust Coat" availible @ "home hardware" stores , very similar to rustoleum, and i'm not sure if with rustoleum you can have custom mixed colors, but with the rustcoat you can..... take a sample of your color in, have it scanned and mixed to match....
i use it all the time, sometimes sprayed sometimes brushed, & sometimes with hardener.
i use it on bottoms of floor pans, as well as inner floors & firewalls, trunk ints. and depending if the truck i am building is gonna be worked the inside of the box.
it just makes sense using $40 a gallon paint as opposed to $200 plus a gallon paint wher it ain't gonna be seen anyhows.
Mikie
near ottawa canada
58 merc 100 panel/ 64 econoline p/u
i use it all the time, sometimes sprayed sometimes brushed, & sometimes with hardener.
i use it on bottoms of floor pans, as well as inner floors & firewalls, trunk ints. and depending if the truck i am building is gonna be worked the inside of the box.
it just makes sense using $40 a gallon paint as opposed to $200 plus a gallon paint wher it ain't gonna be seen anyhows.
Mikie
near ottawa canada
58 merc 100 panel/ 64 econoline p/u
#15
If any one is interesting in some reading about painting with Rustoleum, I've posted the link to the forum that discusses the technique..
Through the research on this forum, it's been discovered that the use of Brightside (a marine use topside paint) is also very effective...
Here is the link to the forum..
moparts: paint job on a budget!?
And here is another site...this site give more examples and how-to's about this process
Home
happy ready...
scr8pin
Through the research on this forum, it's been discovered that the use of Brightside (a marine use topside paint) is also very effective...
Here is the link to the forum..
moparts: paint job on a budget!?
And here is another site...this site give more examples and how-to's about this process
Home
happy ready...
scr8pin